miked

Time to start planning suspension rebuild on my 67 442. I need all the advice I can get as far as brand, type (rubber vs poly), spring rates etc. I don't want hard ride but am always looking for handling improvements. Other than the obvious benefits of looks and strength are t
ubular arms cost effective? How about these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-72-Oldsmo...item19c921ec2f
They say they correct geometry..in what way and is it noticeable on the street?
My car has power steering and is way over sensitive and too light feeling with stock size tires...any suggestions? Sorry for all the questions but I value all of your opinions and help. Thanks!

oldcutlass

I prefer the original control arms, rubber or poly bushings, and moog front end parts. For the price of the control arms listed on ebay, you can almost buy all the parts on your front end.

The current driving charactoristics of your car can be an alignment issue. You can make the car extremely sensitive with incorrect castor settings.

miked

Thanks, that was my initial thoughts too. I prefer Moog also, probably rubber will be fine. You are correct about castor..I will wait til after rebuild and alignment before making any changes in steering box. I hadn't thought of that but it does have zero on center feel and very little self centering. I really appreciate your input!

RAMBOW

Reverse that thought process.
Upgrade your steering box first (its rediculously easy) & you get the most bang for your buck.

I'd go with a AGR or Lee Engineering 12:7:1 box. Firmer feel, quicker ratio- that alone will make it feel like a new car (even though the rest of your stuff is still worn)

Then decide your budget & goals for the rest of the front end rebuild.. If its really not worn out- then stop with the new steering box.

A lot of people rebuild the front ends when they don't need to (by this age many have already been redone or partially redone before and may not need it). The componets get blamed for the crappy steering, which is mostly due to the way the original boxes were desigined (loose & wide ratios)

If the rest of the front suspension stuff is worn, then you have to decide. If its just a street driver- then get the full PST rebuild kit, either rubber or Poly graphite... that choice is a different decision.
Get the full kit w/ cross shafts & outter tie rods, then separately buy a new centerlink.

Top it off with a new 1 1/4" swaybar.

if you would like to improve the handling a little- the go for one of the MANY tubular upper upper control arms available. They all have added caster built in, which will help the handling. There is really no purpose to getting new lowers unless yours are cracked. The lower arms don't change the geometry at all.

Beyond that you can really get fancy trying to upgrade the geometry with tall ball joints, spindles, etc etc... but you would want to research it extensively first.

Easiest fix is to just replace the stock stuff with new.

Lot of reading on this subject. use the search function on the site. Quite a few memebers (myself included) have done it & posted pics of the process & the choices & decsions we made.

Run to Rund

Many power steering systems gave very light, sensitive steering, which could be exaggerated by not enough positive caster (the factory spec was negative to zero in many years). After jacking up the car and securing it well, crawl underneath and inspect the control arm bushings carefully. I got new regular rubber ones (the pro grade are poly not rubber, I'm told) from Rock Auto, about $5 each. To remove after removing the arm, soak in rust penetrant a day or so, and you can nudge them out with an air chisel.

miked

Rambow, thanks for the great suggestions. I will definitely include these in my plans, especially the steering box. Where is best place to purchase this? I don't think anything except shocks has ever been replaced. I drove it home and found one tie rod end loose and almost broken!! Replaced it and idler arm (Autozone) just to be able to drive it a little. Also had twist-in spring spacers and all rubber looks really crummy. Thanks again...great info!!

miked

'Run', I really appreciate your input and suggestions. All this info will get me started, probably after holidays. Thanks again!

miked

"If its just a street driver- then get the full PST rebuild kit, either rubber or Poly graphite..."

Rambow, I'm following your suggestion and getting the PST Original Performance Super Kit + center link. I like to do things in stages when practical ($$$!) to see what each change does so I will do the front, then the rear (looks like they only offer poly), add the big front bar later and then the steering box. If I increase front bar dia do I need to also increase the rear size to offset it?

Thanks again for your help

miked

I'm getting ready to order the PST kit rubber kit and center link. How about their springs? I haven't found any specs on them to compare to original. Any problems with getting the lowering springs?
I'm assuming being a 67 it will have the 7/8 link. It's hard to measure that little 1/16 diff.

My442

Do not buy PST stuff.

Really cheap offshore crap.

I bought 2 kits, and the ball joints wiuld not take grease after a few hundred miles.

MOOG is tops.

Lady72nRob71

X2 on Moog. Tight yet comfortable. Their HD springs improved performance quite a bit.
DO the steering box. Either replace or have it rebuilt with 12:1 specs. Chip and power steering services can do that. That made a HUGE difference in my car.
If the bushings are original - do them.

If you like taking corners fast, then the tubular arms and larger front 1.25" sway bar should be considered.
Add a 1" sway bar to the rear, too.

miked

Thanks, from experience over the years I feel Moog is tops too. I was looking at PST mostly because of the conveinance of getting everything in one kit + free shipping + 15% discount on center link. Maybe I'm not searching correctly but I haven't had much luck finding Moog even at RockAuto. Guess I can go to local NAPA and get it all individually but it will tear me a new one!

miked

Thanks, Rob. Do you by chance have any part nos for the Moog springs? They make so many. I definitely plan the box upgrade but has to be later ($$). I won't be driving hard enough to justify tubular arms but WILL upgrade the bars. I appreciate all the suggestions!!

miked

Hi guys, the only MOOG stuff I find at RockAuto are ball joints...am I searching wrong? I see Raybesto & AC Delco on tie rods, etc...will the professional grade of these be ok? I don't see any springs either.
Thanks

442_1972

x2 on the steering box rebuild by Chip at Power Steering Services. He does great work. I sent him my steering box and power steering pump and he rebuilt and detailed them both. The box was rebuilt with a quick ratio steering gear and the pump was calibrated to the new box - both came back looking better than new. Another plus is that they are your original parts with all the correct stampings and date codes if that is important to you.

x2 on the rear sway bar too. Made a noticeable difference on my car even before rebuilding the rest of the suspension.

oldzy

PST makes some purty billet alum. rear LCA's though. Similar to Currie Currectrac's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xk9EfPC-SKk

miked

"x2 on the steering box rebuild by Chip at Power Steering Services. "

Thanks '442'. I will definitely be giving him a call. Unfortunately I HAVE to rebuild suspension first before I can drive it much (already found a tie rod end loose and almost broken).

RAMBOW

I have used PST's stuff to rebuild several front ends. All the cars are driven hard & quite a bit- including the first one i installed back in '99 on a friends 72 elcamino- STILL going without a problem.

They also warrantee their stuff... to the guy who COULDNT GREASE his BJs after a couple hundred miles? WTH? Didn't you call PST to complain? The one time i had a minor issue (pre-install) they absolutly bent over backwards to make me happy when i called to complain. Great customer service.

PST also gives 10% discount on whatever you buy if you go over to Team Chevelle and search for the code(you gotta dig to find it, but its there)

Just my $.02

miked

Another question I have been researching...that is 13/16 vs 7/8 centerlink. What I understand is the 7/8 is second design and my 67 should have this. However, mine measures 13/16 using calipers. The end studs are sized 7/16 x 20. I know I could order 7/8 and get the proper pitman arm to go with it but I don't want to buy unnecessary parts. Help please. Thanks

miked

I think I have answered my own question...I called PST and asked about centerlink size and they said all 67s are 13/16 that the 7/8 was ONLY available in 64-65. I was under the impression that 7/8 REPLACED 13/16. Is this correct?

RAMBOW

Hi Mike-
I think you are over thinking it a little bit... I usually do the same thing, so just trying to give some guidance.

Over 45 years just about anything could have and has been done to these cars. However... you have to ask yourself- is my car hacked up? How likely is it that all the front steering linkages have come from the wrong year?

Its pretty unlikely. If it were me, i would just order the correct 67 one- since there is only ONE option for 67. More likely than not it will fit.

IF- your current one is wrong- i'd say its a greater likely hood its the only wrong peice, instead of also having the wrong pitman & wrong idler arm.

If it turns out to be wrong... then just return it and get the other style.

With the internet & restoration catalogs, i think sometimes we have too MUCH information for our own goods, and we end up second guessing things that we shouldn't.

My $.02

miked

LOL u r so right rambow. I got confused thinking that they CHANGED to 7/8 in 65 so that all years after that would be 7/8 and when I measured mine it blew my mind! Thanks for response! I have enough things to be confused about without my adding to it!! Ha