Sup everyone, been awhile,

I've just got back to working on my car. What i have is a 350 with a new flat tappet cam and a set of redone #8 heads.

Well, It's firing up but barely runs. I'm dumping fuel into the carb via water bottle with a pin-hole poked in the cap. I've got some 7/16" rubber hose connected to the fuel pump, submerged in a gas can.

I'm not getting fuel to the primaries. Is the 7/16" fuel line too big?

 

Not sure about 7/16" being to big but how do you have it connected to the pump? Pump hook up is 3/8". If you have too big a hose on the nipple it may be sucking air. It is pretty important to get it running correct pretty quickly and break in the cam per recommendations.

 

There's a hose clamp around the 7/16" line where the nipple is.

And yeah, sorta worried about the cam

 

I would put a piece of 3/8" Hose on it just to eliminate the potential problem. The fuel,pump runs off a offset cam bolted to the front of the cam. Are you sure this was reinstalled properly?

 

the hose is fine,
"I'm not getting fuel to the primaries". bad fuel pump or clogged filter

 

Fwiw. When I fire up a new engine. I either borrow or use a well known running carb or buy one. Fuel air and spark Those 3 need to be in check prior to initial start up.

 

Referred to some pics during assembly. Yes, the offset is bolted onto the cam. Timing gear dots are lined up 6 and 12 o'clock.

Not running a filter. Gas is coming straight from the gas can. I'll check the hose for clogs. Pump worked fine when removed

The carb worked fine when I pulled it. When I first attempted to fire it up, it backfired hardcore so I flipped the distributor 180 degrees and now it's sort of running.

 

This happened to me. But it was timing. I put # 1 t tdc and rechecked whee it fell on the dist. Before I took the cap off I marked where the #1plug wire was on the base then compared to the rotor. I adjusted as needed.

 

The timing does seem to be off. I dont think it's a tooth off? Maybe the wires on the cap are in the wrong order...

I had to balancer at 0 degrees and the rotor aimed at cylinder #1

 

make sure you are on the compression stroke.

 

Went out to check timing. Seemed to be a tooth off. Now it's pointing at #1. Will try again in the morning.

 

Remember that Olds dizzy's rotate counter clockwise.

 

You did not mention what distributor your running? There is no such thing as being a tooth off. The engine does not care what the position the distributor is in as long as the firing order is correct.


When you operate the throttle by hand from idle to wot, do you see 2 solid streams of fuel spraying in the carb?


If yes have you tried to advance or decline the timing a little while cranking to get it to fire.


If it fires and runs to slow bump the idle speed up until you can get your tune sorted.

 

Just tried again. I think the distributor was off a tooth because it's running and starting much better. I brought #1 cylinder up to TDC on the compression stroke and pointed the rotor at cylinder #1. However, this is only when I'm feeding the carb manually with the water bottle. I disconnected the fuel line at the carb, and not a drop of fuel came out. I'm not getting any fuel.

 

Have you tried to run a fuel hose from the pump to a 5 gal gas can. Maybe the pick up or line is clogged quick way to determine clog/ bad fuel fump. Make sure you have a fire extinguisher just for safety.

 

I'm running it out of a gas can already. Using a foot and a half of fuel line. I took the pump out of the engine. The line going from the pump to the carb is totally dry and doesn't smell like gas suggesting that it isn't working.

I'm picking up a new pump at the parts store in a couple hours so I'll try again when that happens.

 

Oldcutlass. What do you mean there is no such thing as being a tooth off? When I put mine together it was either too far advanced or bumping the wires made it too far retarded. Adjusting the dist. one tooth put it right in the middle. Firewall and intake limited turning the dist very far.

 

As I said the engine does not care about where the distributor is stabbed as long as its wired accordingly. Interference with setting the timing is a separate issue that can still be corrected just by rewiring the cap and doesn't require removal of the distributor. But being installed one tooth off does not keep it from firing.


I would bet its the pump also.

 

Gotcha.

 

1970 and 1968 have different fuel pumps. I ordered one for a 1970; I guess my engine is a '68. Just a heads up...

 

I never heard of that ! as far as I know fuel pump placement is the same from 64 until the last 307 with mech fuel pump.

 

There are different pumps and part numbers. For one thing, some vehicles had return lines and some did not. Yes, they all bolt in place and will work, but they are not all the same.

 

Yes im sure that are different part numbers but one from a 70 will work to fire up a 68 engine. his car looks like a mid 60's olds so the correct pump for the correct car may be more suitable. If not I belive you can run the vent and return lines into a reservoir or a charcoal canister from the junk yard . I ran a mech stock style pump and I ran a return line to the fuel cell and it was dry so I capped the extra tubes. In his case he would need a fuel pump for his car and an engine it came with so that it runs the correct tubes and not by engine year.

 

Did the car run with the pump before you replaced the cam? I doubt the pump went bad just sitting unless it sat for a very long time. I still go back to the setup drawing fuel from the can. If there is any leak on the vacuum side of the pump at all it will not prime. 7/16" line even clamped on a 3/8 tube may not seal. Try to put the gas can above the pump so that it gravity feeds the pump. If the line is not sealing it would show up now as a fuel leak.

 

Yes, it ran fine with that pump. It sat for about two years. Maybe I should have dumped some gas into the holes first to lubricate the valves since I'm pretty sure the diaphragm is good. I tried putting the gas can above the pump (sat it on the wheel well).

Right now I have the pump out of the car. I hear what your saying about the 7/16" line possibly sucking in air. That could very well be it.

This pump should work. I'll give it one more shot with the proper 3/8" line and see what happens. I just didn't want to make a trip to the parts store if I didn't have to...

edit: I get what you mean. All ideas that I never thought of; that's why I come on here.

 

Okay, got a new fuel pump on it. I pulled the intake and the rockers and re-lubed the cam shaft through the lifter bores. Found a loose rocker arm too so I'm going to replace that.

I'm going to check the charging system wiring on it as well before trying again. TY for the opinions so far.

 

Got it done. It was the fuel pump causing the no-start condition I believe. Re-checked wiring. Used the 7/16" fuel hose as well. Worked fine.

Ran for 20 min @ 2,000-2,500 rpm.

TY

If anyone needs a wiring diagram for a 1964 Cutlass I have a real nice one btw on .PDF. A member here sent it to me...been a major help

 

Glad you got it sorted out!

 

Congrats.