General Maintenance - Engine and Transmission
#1
General Maintenance - Engine and Transmission
Hello All!
I live in Western North Carolina and need some information on general maintenance for my 1968 Cutlass Supreme. I need to know what oil is best for it, what kind of oil filter I should use, how to change the transmission fluid and filter, and what coolant is best to use - and how to flush the cooling system.
I know these are basic things but I've only owned new cars and they all seem to need specialized fluids and such, so I am a little lost when it comes to the older cars.
Thanks!
I live in Western North Carolina and need some information on general maintenance for my 1968 Cutlass Supreme. I need to know what oil is best for it, what kind of oil filter I should use, how to change the transmission fluid and filter, and what coolant is best to use - and how to flush the cooling system.
I know these are basic things but I've only owned new cars and they all seem to need specialized fluids and such, so I am a little lost when it comes to the older cars.
Thanks!
#2
Oil filter: WIX or NAPA Gold (they're the same filter). All of us who have taken oil filters apart have been impressed by the construction of the NAPA and depressed by the construction of the Fram (DO NOT use Fram).
Oil: One of the "Off Road" oil mixtures containing ZDDP.
Not synthetic, unless you've recently installed all new gaskets.
10W30 - 10W40 in your "winter," 10W40 - 20W50 summer.
Danger: Potential virulent "What is the Best Oil?" debate ahead.
Coolant: Green, mixed 50/50 with water.
Danger: Potential "Distilled Water / Tap Water" debate ahead. Just use tap water, unless you're in an area where you need a chisel to cut your water.
Coolant Flush: Get one of those Prestone thingies, install it in your heater hose, and follow the directions. You can get a brass Female-Female hose attachment that flows much better than the plastic one that comes with the kit.
If the system is really gunked up, you may want to use "radiator flush" stuff, but be advised, if the gunk is plugging the holes in the radiator, you'll find out.
Transmission: Dextron, just like it says in the manual.
Transmission Filter: Go to the auto parts store, ask for a filter for a TH350 or a TH400, whatever you've got.
Draining Transmission: Do what it says in the manual: Remove umpteen screws, drop pan, take bath in ATF, install new filter, pan, and gasket, do not overtighten.
Good luck!
- Eric
Oil: One of the "Off Road" oil mixtures containing ZDDP.
Not synthetic, unless you've recently installed all new gaskets.
10W30 - 10W40 in your "winter," 10W40 - 20W50 summer.
Danger: Potential virulent "What is the Best Oil?" debate ahead.
Coolant: Green, mixed 50/50 with water.
Danger: Potential "Distilled Water / Tap Water" debate ahead. Just use tap water, unless you're in an area where you need a chisel to cut your water.
Coolant Flush: Get one of those Prestone thingies, install it in your heater hose, and follow the directions. You can get a brass Female-Female hose attachment that flows much better than the plastic one that comes with the kit.
If the system is really gunked up, you may want to use "radiator flush" stuff, but be advised, if the gunk is plugging the holes in the radiator, you'll find out.
Transmission: Dextron, just like it says in the manual.
Transmission Filter: Go to the auto parts store, ask for a filter for a TH350 or a TH400, whatever you've got.
Draining Transmission: Do what it says in the manual: Remove umpteen screws, drop pan, take bath in ATF, install new filter, pan, and gasket, do not overtighten.
Good luck!
- Eric
#3
Oil: One of the "Off Road" oil mixtures containing ZDDP.
Not synthetic, unless you've recently installed all new gaskets.
10W30 - 10W40 in your "winter," 10W40 - 20W50 summer.
Danger: Potential virulent "What is the Best Oil?" debate ahead.
Not synthetic, unless you've recently installed all new gaskets.
10W30 - 10W40 in your "winter," 10W40 - 20W50 summer.
Danger: Potential virulent "What is the Best Oil?" debate ahead.
Coolant: Green, mixed 50/50 with water.
Danger: Potential "Distilled Water / Tap Water" debate ahead. Just use tap water, unless you're in an area where you need a chisel to cut your water
Danger: Potential "Distilled Water / Tap Water" debate ahead. Just use tap water, unless you're in an area where you need a chisel to cut your water
Also, all of the containers of orange, "long-life" coolant now say on them that they're usable in ANY car, with the word "any" emphasized. Can I use this stuff in my '67 and my '73? I am finding it a bit more difficult to actually find green coolant at some of the stores I visit. Is green coolant going away?
#5
ZDDP is Zinc dithiophosphate.
It is a substance that helps lubricate high-pressure friction areas, such as flat cam tappets.
It has been essentially eliminated from modern motor oils because it can poison catalytic converters.
Does your computer have access to Google?
- Eric
It is a substance that helps lubricate high-pressure friction areas, such as flat cam tappets.
It has been essentially eliminated from modern motor oils because it can poison catalytic converters.
Does your computer have access to Google?
- Eric
#6
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_dithiophosphate
http://barsproducts.com/blog/the-str...zinc-additives
Yes, it's in STP Oil Treatment.
#8
Wow, take it down a notch, will ya? I could have easily googled this question, as I can any other question I have, but I prefer to ask those who are into this stuff here at this fine site. It's kind of like going to a friend who's into your interests, rather than just a group of strangers...
I'll make sure my questions are more, um, "complex" from now on.
I'll make sure my questions are more, um, "complex" from now on.
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