My car finally has an engine and trans in it, and a driveline now, so I can move it under it's own power. But, it has no exhaust, only manifolds and a very short length of tube past the flanges.

Looking to get exhaust on it, and was going to just bolt it up to the stock manifolds already on the car, but started thinking about using these Hooker headers (#3902) that were in the trunk when I got the car.



Unfortunately, one of the tubes is smashed about half shut. I've really got no extra money for things right now, and just need to get this thing driveable. I know buying new headers would be best, but is there anything that can be done to at least open up the smashed tube? Heat it up and push it out from the inside? Cut and replace the offending section? Run it as is until I can swap them out for a new set?
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And lastly, any thoughts/ opinions on Summit Racing Header-Back Dual Exhaust System 680121? Again, I'm on an EXTREMELY tight budget and just need this thing to be alot quieter than it is in it's current exhaust state (ie...none).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Summit-Racin...ht_1724wt_1111

 

I'm thinking they smashed it to clear the brake lines or something. If you are tight I'd run em. Still way better than manifolds.

 

cut and replace. Do a test fit first to check your clearances.

 

If they are the correct header for that application, that tube is got me wondering. Every set of Hooker Headers I've ever used (currently have two sets in use) fit like a glove and needed no "extra adjustments". As for the ones you have, I'd test fit and see just what is going on with that smashed tube.

 

Or find someone who has some metal talent. Heat it up to cherry red and get in there with a body spoon and gently finesse it out.

 

You could weld on a hook and then heat it, to pull out the worst of the dent. Would get you to maybe 80% flow capacity? A quick fix.

 

I was going to suggest finding someone with a stud welder used to pull dents, but simply welding a rod to the tube then heating the tube while pulling would do the same thing. If it works, it's a lot easier than cutting and splicing the tube.

 

I took it to two local muffle shops and before I could finish my question about if they could fix it or not, they were shaking their head and saying no. Not one bit of hesitation. One of them did suggest taking it to a semi-local shop that builds custom headers to have them replace that section. I've sent them an email and the pictures, awaiting response.

Thinking about just getting a bottle of propane for my torch (handheld kind) and seeing if I can at least open it up some. May need to find someone who doesn't work at a muffler shop otherwise.

 

You mean find someone dumb enough to try?

If everybody was totally sensible, none of these cars would be running.

 

Alright, well I decided to go ahead and pull the stock manifolds in preparation for the headers. I've read a few threads on this and was hoping for a definitive list of what needs to be done to get them (Hookers) in.

(never installed headers before)

I've read that:

May need to relocate the brake proportion valve.
Remove oil filter and housing, replace after header install
Remove oil dipstick, reinstall after headers.
More?

It looks to me like someone did something funky with the tranny cooler lines as they just kind of haphazardly run through the engine compartment, and they may need to be moved or bent or both.

Advice on gaskets specifically for these Hooker's?

 

I like Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals myself.

 

Muffler shops only know how to remove and replace pre-bent exhaust systems. Good luck with anything out of the ordinary. Look, this is just mild steel. There's NOTHING magic about the metal. Heat it and try and straighten it. If you're lucky, you'll get an acceptable fix for nearly no cost. The worst that will happen is that you need to cut and weld that section of pipe, but why try the expensive fix first?

Your propane torch won't generate enough heat. You need an acetylene torch, preferably with a rosebud tip.

 

Try a local body shop. They are used to heating and straightening metal and have lots of equipment to do it. Just need to find a shop who is willing to try to help you out.

 

Tracked down an old buddy of mine who is a Union steel worker and has his own equipment. He's going to have a go at this weekend. I'll post pics (if there's any change) after he gets done with it.

I told him about welding a stick to it and pulling it out like a dent, he didn't like that idea, but seemed to think heating it up cherry red and pushing it out from the inside was going to be the ticket. Just FYI for anyone in the future who may have the same problem and stumble upon this thread.

 

If you can reach the entire dent from the inside, that's the easiest way to go. I suspect that you cannot, however, thus the idea of pulling from the outside. It works pretty well for dent repair.

 

or you can also cut the bad section out. install the header and see if a section of straight exhaust pipe could be welded in. There is still alot of exhaust shops that bend exhaust systems up. Call around and see who does. the grab a coat hanger shape it in the shape you need take the header down to the exhaust shop have them bend the piece up and weld it in. We made a set of headers for a 54 ford custom line w/ and inline 6 in this manner we started with truck headers that did not fit me and my buddy cut them up formed the coat hanger wire in the shape we needed took it to the exhaust shop and the guy bent it all up. Total cost 35 buck i kinda knew the guy so prices can vary but thats an idea.

 

ok, well, it's been a while since this thread was started, and just a few days ago I got the RH header down to bare metal, painted with VHT Flameproof and cooked it off in the bbq. Thought I'd check and see how easy the LH header was going to go on before I got it painted, and have found that I'm having a clearance issue with the motor mount.

I tried to cut away some of the extra rubber from one corner, but it's not enough, and now I'm hitting a rubber coated metal part of the mount.

Has anyone else had this clearance problem with Hooker Competition headers? I've not seen it mentioned in my previous searches on header installs for Cutlass'.

Any tips, hints, suggestions? I'm checking to see if there's some adjustability to the motor mount. I'm not that far off, maybe an inch or a bit less before I'm where I need to be with it. Also, I was looking at the assembly manual and see that there's supposed to be a heat shield over the mount. Don't think there's one on there now, is this critical? Especially considering I'm basically touching the rubber part of the mount with the header as it is now?

The RH side went in like a dream.

I'll post up some pics of the header "restoration" I did here soon.

 

I've never had problems with motor mounts on a 72 Cutlass with headers.

 

if the engine mounts are old the height could be off on the engine, check the clearance above your suspension and the lower pulley to check it. you should if good have a lot of clearance there. I have hookers and they with a little line movement fit good. check my posts for advice.

 

Well, I was able to get clearance on the engine mount by removing the small block of rubber at the top side. However, the starter is nowhere near being able to go in. It's rubbing all up and down the side of the #3 tube like one of those dogs, you know the ones.

The tube has room to be bent outward, away from the starter, but nothing I've been able to do to it has changed it and the muffler guy told me there's no way to heat it up and bend it out. Said the tube would just go flat.

So I've been trying to figure out how to fix this, when I figured out what is probably the problem. The headers I have, that came with the car (not installed) are actually for Olds 400-455 and not the 350 I'm trying to put them on. Near as I can tell, the major difference is .125 in tube diameter and 2" on the end. Pass. side bolted right up as did the driver side - without the starter in. If I can get this tube pushed out I think they'll work just fine. Going to check at another welding shop who claims the can fix anything metal. So we'll see.

 

I know it's a bit more $$$ but have you considered a mini starter?

 

AHH now we can see the light. You should have come forth with that little tid-bit of info on your first post. There is enough of a difference between the BB and SB header which is why your struggling. The geometry is off due to the difference in deck heights of the two blocks. This effects the tube locations as well. Your going to have nothing but headaches with this. IMO evilbay or craigslist these and put the money towards the right header. The small block headers made by the higher end companies will drop right in. And the starter will fit too. Heat shield the starter & solenoid.

 

I tried a set of Sanderson headers, 350, on a 455 and I had to shave down right around the steering shaft, didn't think it would need the same treatment the other way around. But yes, my first thought was that they're for a big block if they needed some persuasion to fit. They're gonna hang an inch lower, by the way.

 

Bingo. I tried installing BBO headers I had laying around on my SBO, passenger side went in but hung way too low. Driver side header, forget about it.

Get the correct headers for your engine, my Dynomax went in with one small dimple for the steering shaft.

 

If money is an issue look for used headers. I picked some up at a salvage for $40, no dents. After paint the look like new.

 

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ders-sale.html

 

Well hows the headers coming?