Anyone know of a blower kit that would fit under the hood for a 71 cutlass S 350 rocket engine? looking to add more horse power? I found a blower kit from Pro Charger which is only available through colorado speed with a conversion kit for an olds but $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

John

 

Speed costs.......plain and simple.

 

How true! Any recommendations?

 

Don't want to derail your topic too much, but would a 455 swap be an easier/cheaper route?

 

I guess a swap would be cheaper! But I never did a blower would like to do one. Any other thoughts on getting more HP out of my 350? So far it's got bored out 40 over EB HR manifold and EB 650 CFM carb and headers. Would like to have a little more speed! Anyone?

 

Check some threads on oldspower.com Right now a couple of guys seem to be working on turbos. One is a twin turbo 307 and the other is a 455.
Larry

http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthre...ighlight=turbo

http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthre...ighlight=turbo

 

Thanks Larry.

I did got to site this morning and tried to register twice but I never received a password?

I'll look through the threads as a guest. Thanks again.

 

did you see this recent post? https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...hlight=blowers

 

I REALLY wanted to do that street blower on a 355 Olds. I spoke to Karen at DSE several times, they still have some manifolds (or did at that time). The problem is the math. You are killing yourself to get the same numbers as you would with a mild-ish 468 for less money and way less hassles. That set-up new is around $4000, $1800 is a good price, IMHO. Cool factor, definitely.

In the case of Chevy and Ford, there are significant differences in weight and size between big blocks and small blocks. That makes powerr adders more attractive in a SBC or SBF application. But in the case of BOP, not so much. Nobody builds a 350 Buick when a 455 is similar in size and weight, costs the same to rebuild, and yields much more power. Same with Oldsmobiles. I love 350s, and they do have some advantakes, but start from scratch and 90% of the time you will be ahead of the game with a 455.

As to "budget turbo builds", let's see how many actually get done, and how much it really costs in the end. Then let's see how long they hold up and how they run. IMO, turbo without EFI is a waste of time and money, so factor that into the cost.

 

I'd love to do a turbo build on a diesel block but I'm with captjim not worth it unless its all about the trip and not the destination, I put a supercharger on my Marauder and it made a huge huge difference, again small block high revving. But not sure I'd do it again. Next time I'll buy a newer used car they come stock with plenty of power (new stang, challenger or SS).

Now I do appreciate the fun and challenge of building a car be it for the strip or show, but as of late I've come to appreciate just cruising in my car and "tweaking" it.

Edit: By the way good luck getting onto olds power, I tried a couple a days in a row years ago and then out of the blue tried again and got on right away - some people have never gotten on.

 

Thanks everyone for the input! This is how I hoped this forum would be! I am really glad I joined!

As for my crazy wants for my car, I agree with everyone it's not cost or time effective to put any type of blower or turbo kit on my 350! Although I think I would have fun doing it! My new thought is to change the cam to a roller? This would boost my RPM's, would sound wicked and give me a bit more HP. I want to keep my numbers matching, newly rebuilt 350 in the car for now. Maybe change the manifold put dual carbs or 6 pack? Whats everyones tale an that?

 

Sorry for all the typeO' s on my iPhone!

 

What are the specs on the rebuild? What pistons? Rollers are generally smoother, not "lumpier". You will be limited by the compression ratio and the heads. Almost certainly, a single 4 bbl will be the best choice.

 

350 40 over EB highrise Manifold, 650 CFM EB 4b carb. The previous owner had the motor rebuilt, bill from speed shop does not list and specialty parts. The total rebuild job was $3,300. Heads were decked I need to do a compression test.

 

You should contact Mark- (Cutlassefi) about a cam. He will steer you in the right direction. A roller cam setup might be a bit much for your needs, and still pretty pricey. You might want to maximize (tune) your current setup before you start throwing parts at it. You will have to get a lot more specific about your current combo before anyone can help you choose the right components. I know Mark is going to ask you:
1) What trans, 2) Rear gear ratio, 3) Which Edelbrock intake, 4) Carb details, 5) Tire size, 6) Actual compression ratio, 7) Any head work, 8) What valve springs, 9) Car's weight, 10) Suspension upgrades, 11) Primary intended use and goals?

You'll need to have the answer to all these questions, in order for anyone to make the right educated decision on parts upgrades for you. By the way, $3300 for a complete rebuild is very cheap. You should find out more details about that build. Ask for a blueprint data sheet. I spent $3800 on just the short block-

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ort-block.html

Here's some links that may interest you-

http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic....t=block+blower

http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic....ght=350+blower

http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic....ght=350+blower

http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic....er=asc&start=0

http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic....blower&start=0

There was a guy that modified a manifold to accept a Buick 3800 blower but I couldn't find that thread. You might want to consider a gear change for the rear or a 455, after all, there is no replacement for displacement.

 

Wow! Thanks, you have given me a lot to think about as well as research! Very helpful. I already started researching the very vauge parts list on the invoice the previous owner gave me. I will post more info when i have it. Thanks again for taking the time to help me. I am located in NY. You?

John

 

A compression test will tell you the cranking compression, not the compression ratio, 2 different things.

 

Yeah, unfortunately, if you didn't put the engine together yourself, the only way to find the mechanical compression ratio is to pull a head and cc the pistons and combustion chambers.
The "standard" rebuild pistons have a very large dish that will yield somewhere around 7.5:1 with a standard 0.047" (give or take) head gasket on an unmodified block, but with different pistons and head work, that could go over 11:1 - the only way to know it to take it apart and look.

- Eric

 

Hey John,
You’re welcome for the info. You’re also very fortunate you live in NY, home of probably the best Olds builder you could ask for, in BTR Racing or, Bill Travato. I would rather spend a thousand dollars on shipping my engine back and forth to Bill, than having another builder put together a $10,000 hand grenade, with the pin out, for me.
I live in Southeastern Wisconsin. The first link I posted was for a short block I have for sale. I wish Bill had his hands on my motor. Here’s the blueprint data that I’ve been compiling-
Olds 350 Engine Blueprint Data


Displacement………………………………………………………………… 355 CI
Bore x Stroke………………………………………………………………. 4.087
Main bearing clearance……………………………………………….. 3.385
Crankshaft Journal run-out…………………………………………..
Crankshaft endplay……………………………………………………... .006
Rod bearing clearance………………………………………………….. .021
Connecting rod side clearance…………………………………… .015
Connecting rod center to center length…………………… 6.000
Cylinder wall finish……………………………………………………
Piston pin dimensions……………………………………………… Diameter .927 Length 2.750
Piston to wall clearance………………………………………….. .0045
Ring type………………………………………………………………… Plasma
Ring gap………………………………………………………………….. 1st ring .020 2nd ring .022
Piston compression height distance……………………… 1.633
Dome height…………………………………………………………
Dish depth/ cc……………………………………………………....
Piston Weight………………………………………………………. 551 Grams
Deck clearance…………………………………………………….. -.001
Head gasket clearance – compressed thickness….. To be determined
Advertised compression ratio………………………………
True compression ratio………………………………………..
CC combustion chamber……………………………………..
Valve size…………………………………………………………….
Intake
Exhaust
Piston to valve clearance
Camshaft specs
Lift
Duration
Lobe separation
End play
Rocker ratio
Valve springs
Outside diameter
Pressure @ check height
Pressure @ open height
Coil bind height
Rod bolt torque or stretch
Main bolt/ stud torque or stretch
Head bolt/ stud torque or stretch
Max ignition timing
Header type


As you can see I still have some blanks to fill in. This is the kind of information you really need to know. Besides knowing what you want, you really need to determine how much you can spend. How can that money be wisely invested in your project. It’s crucial that you pick a builder that is well versed in the idiosyncrasies of the Olds platform. It’s definitely not a Chebby. Here’s a book I highly recommend-
http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=2712


I’m going to give you a link to links. This is an old list so some URL’s may have changed. My list is currently third down on this forum-
http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb2/viewforum.php?f=26
The best part about the internet is the wealth of free information available to you. Do your research, be realistic. Find other well working engine combinations here-
http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=16
There’s a ton of really cool people on this sight, always willing to voice their opinion or help you find that long lost part you’ve been searching for. Here’s a link to my never ending project-
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/major-builds-projects/22627-67-cutlass-tube-chassis.html
You should post some photos of your car, and start a build thread when you’re ready. Here’s a link to my photo album with some classics-
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll306/Oldsnut1967/Oldsmobile%20Classics/?start=all
Good luck to you on your project, Dave

67Racecar004.jpg

 

If you don't value your engine too much and you have access to cheap components, putting a turbo on your engine might be good for kicks. About 10 years ago I scrounged a few pick-a-part yards, made some modifications, and managed to piece together a turbo setup on a little car I had. It was a blast when I got it all working. On that engine it was a bit easy since it had a CIS (mechanical) injection system that could be tweaked with the turn of a screw to increase fuel supply, and I found a stock setup for knock sensing ignition control in the parts yard. When the old $40 turbo I used gave out it didn't bother me at all, I had my fun. The total cost to me was $400. After that experience I ended up putting a bigger engine in for the same kind of fun with better reliability.

Not suggesting anything to you. In my experience I wanted to learn a little and have fun, nothing serious. Whatever you do have fun with it!

 

I dont know if that helps deciding but i really thing thats awesome and im considering myself to start building something like that when i get some founds over.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RifXaC-RFno

 

Thanks everyone! Its going to take some time and money to get my car the way I want. Having all this experience and knowledge from you all is priceless!

LiL history, I had a 74 cutlass salon about 30 years ago when the wife and I were dating. I bought the car for her, (with her money), It got T boned on thr drivers side by a DWI driving a full size van. The car saved my life!. The wife and I always talked about buying another cutlass! And now here I am with my 71! What memories! We, (40-50 year old's) forget how these cars were! What a blast! I'll post some photos of what I have done so far. Thanks again everyone. Keepem coming!

 

Hey 67CutlassFreak, those blueprint numbers are strange. 3.385" is the stroke, and I'm pretty sure your rod bearing clearance is not .021"

 

You noticed that too eh?

 

Anyone have BTR's contact info?, he's the olds mechanic in NY

 

Bill Trovato

I liked his book, too.

BTR Performance
1517 Mt. Read Blvd, Area B
Rochester, NY
14606

bill@btrperformance.com
585-303-7560

Rochester ain't exactly close to SI, but at least he's not in LA.

- Eric

 

I have one more crazy idea and wanted your thoughts. I found a cheap electric 5 psi blower. http://superchargertuning.com/
Looks real easy to install and has a throttle switch. If I modified my aircleaner and use spectre parts to hooked this up or maybe 2, so it only blows when all 4B of the carb is wide open you think it would work? Just for kicks until I come up with the cash and time to figure out a higher performance configuration.

 

If a legitimate blower set-up is around 4 grand, do you honestly think a $175 "kit" is going to work?

 

You are right. However, if it puts out 5psi that's 5psi I don't have. Also a ram air setup would produce the same results but only at cruising speed not full throttle out of the gate. Did u take a look at the dyno test on their website? I think it's worth a try at that price! Heck if it doesn't work well on my olds I'll put it in my Acura MDX!

 

There is an old saying, "If it sounds too good to be true............"

 

x2

 

Try a leaf blower first if all else fails you can clean your lawn if it dont work lol jk. I have seen someone try the leaf blower with little success.

 

1. Here's that company's description, after I entered "1970" "Olds" "88":

"Buy Oldsmobile 88 Electric Supercharger Bolt-On Kit
With an Oldsmobile 88 supercharger this full sized car will get all the praise you have been wishing it gets. Being able to comfortably put all your family members in this car and travel over 100 miles without stopping, will only be possible with a new Oldsmobile 88 bolt on supercharger. The electric supercharger saves the gas mileage and therefore the trip can be enjoyed without many gas stations interruptions. The advanced overhead-valve high-compression is fine tuned well when you use the adjustable **** which is always within instant reach. Your family will be able to enjoy the ride with all the Oldsmobile 88 supercharger kit and the shock absorbers strengthened and the steering wheel taken care of making turns a piece of cake. The superchargers will also provide another beauty with the little ones being able to see for themselves where they are going, where they actually are and how long it will take."

Need I say more?

2. You still don't know what your compression is.
If this setup did work, it could cause massive detonation and ruin you r engine that way.

- Eric

 

On their site is also says it only works on engines up to 5 liters. Again backing up what md said how can you go from a boosted engine to non boosted in the flip of a switch. You would have to have a boost and non boost tune. If carburated that is timing jetting etc. This is just a very glorified scam