Oil pan retorquing?

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Old Aug 6, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #1  
Lady72nRob71's Avatar
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From: Plano, TX
Oil pan retorquing?

About 4 years ago, my 72's oil pan gasket had been replaced with a regular cork gasket (along with all the other seals).
Now I noticed some oil seepage from the pan.

I found the small bolts could be removed with my fingers and the big ones with a nutdriver with no effort.
I snugged them all comfortably with a nutdriver.

Should these be torqued to specs in the manual or is that just for new installations? Should I now just leave them alone?
I do not want to damage the gasket or make it leak worse...
Old Aug 6, 2011 | 11:58 AM
  #2  
Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
How can it hurt to torque them to specs? If the bolts were installed without thread lock (locktite) they could probably vibrate loose quite easily. 10 ft/lbs probably 'sounds' too loose *valve covers are only 7!*. The only thing I don't see in the CSM is the order in which to tighten them. I've always used the start in the middle and work to the outside using alternating sides to offset any bulging that may occur in the gasket. Rob, as you're 100% aware if you do overtighten you run the risk of bending the oil pan lip and creating a bigger leak next to it. I'd go with factory specs and monitor for leaks!
Old Aug 6, 2011 | 03:10 PM
  #3  
Lady72nRob71's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Allan R
How can it hurt to torque them to specs? !
Well considerint the gasket is only 1/2 it's normal thickness or so, I did not want to over compress it and make it all squeeze out or break it somewhere.
5-10 lbs feels like an awful lot whencompressing something so soft.
Old Aug 6, 2011 | 05:04 PM
  #4  
coppercutlass's Avatar
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From: Elgin, Illinois
i usually just snug them tight and then just a half turn and i usually dab silicone on the threads to help them stay tight i dont like threadlocker on small bolts like the ones on the oil pan
Old Aug 6, 2011 | 08:05 PM
  #5  
Allan R's Avatar
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
Well considerint the gasket is only 1/2 it's normal thickness or so, I did not want to over compress it and make it all squeeze out or break it somewhere.
5-10 lbs feels like an awful lot whencompressing something so soft.
The other more obvious option is to replace the gasket again and retorque to 10. Then again, as you suggested earlier maybe just keep an eye on whether the darn thing continues to leak now that you've tightened it. You're an intuitive guy and will know which option is the best to follow.
Old Aug 6, 2011 | 09:59 PM
  #6  
BosMobile's Avatar
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From: n. alabama-heart of dixie
Hey,cork gaskets are'nt that great,genrally.But ,it is what it is.You should be able to tighten them to "snug". What'ch it after that.If it stops leaking,your good.If not,well ,then ,I'd consider removing the oil pan ,then install a better gasket.I've never done that on an olds motor.Could be to much trouble,not sure on that.The other alternitive is to ,drain the oil,let it set awhile,dry around the pan good.Let that set,then take some "good", RTV sealant and put it around the gasket/pan.NEATLY!Just like calking a window .Smear it on there with your finger,wipe off the access.This way it does'nt look like crap.JMHO.Later,BO
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