1970 Rocket 350 - What's THE BEST valve cover gaskets??

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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 02:16 AM
  #1  
Aceshigh's Avatar
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1970 Rocket 350 - Valve cover leaks ?? WTF....

I needed some new valve cover gaskets so I saw a nice rubber set advertised on Ebay "That will last a lifetime" and bought them. I also put some new valve covers on with all new bolts and used 4 press down clips per valve cover only. (as shown in photo below) Not sure if I need more but I'm having oil leaking issues I'm thinking because now I can smell oil burning and I can literally see faint signs of smoke in the engine bay now.

I DID NOT USE ANY RTV SEALANT , so I'm not sure if that's my problem or not.
So either that or I need more press downs, or I need new gaskets......not exactly sure here.

Guys over on Nastyz28 were recommending these Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus gaskets.
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165877
I'm not exactly sure if this is the right model for the 1970 Rocket 350 or not.

Any thoughts on what the best option is if these aren't ?


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-VS13403T/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FPP-1658/?rtype=10

Last edited by Aceshigh; Mar 11, 2010 at 02:32 AM.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 02:37 AM
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Did you use Permatex?
I always use rubber with Permatex High-Tack and have never had any leaks, comes apart fine.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 02:44 AM
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This stuff ??? No, I didn't use anything.
Everyone was telling me before rubber gaskets should seal fine without anything.

Is this better on my left or this on my right ??
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 04:45 AM
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The only reason I use permatex (either kind) is to adhere the gasket to the bottom of the valve cover, but first I make sure the cover is absolutely clean and the surface is straight. Over-tightening, or for that matter simply years of regular tightening can cause dimples at every hole even if the spreaders are used. Use a small hammer and a wood buck and flatten out the surface where the gasket fits as well as you can. With patience and care it isn't too hard. I then apply a very thin layer of sealant on the inside of the valve cover gasket mating surface and apply the gasket. If the gasket is deformed or bent a little then use some tape to hold it in place until the sealant sets. This holds the gasket to the valve cover IN PLACE as you set the cover down on top of the head and ensures a nice neat fit. So really, you are only using the sealant as an adhesive. The side benefit is that there isn't anything to clean off the head the next time you have to remove the cover, it's all on the cover instead and if you used it sparingly the adhesive shouldn't be too difficult to clean off the cover. Any way, that method works for me.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 05:21 AM
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I am with Oldsguy on this one, for sealant usage and cover straightening.
I personally vote for Felpro Permadry plus. Rockauto sells them for the Olds 350 for about 26 bucks, VS 9 for cork.
Not sure what you got off evil bay, but if it was the permadry, I suspect your covers have some dimples by the screws.
The washer things would be best used at the bottom of the covers, where sealing is more vital.
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 05:30 AM
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I'm partial to cork gaskets. I've had old rubber ones that either got hard and brittle or got really soft and squishy. But that may be with older technology rubber gaskets. I'm not familiar with the ones being described in this thread. John
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
I am with Oldsguy on this one, for sealant usage and cover straightening.
I personally vote for Felpro Permadry plus. Rockauto sells them for the Olds 350 for about 26 bucks, VS 9 for cork.
Not sure what you got off evil bay, but if it was the permadry, I suspect your covers have some dimples by the screws.
The washer things would be best used at the bottom of the covers, where sealing is more vital.
PermaDry...best VC gaskets for an Olds
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 2blu442
I'm partial to cork gaskets. I've had old rubber ones that either got hard and brittle or got really soft and squishy. But that may be with older technology rubber gaskets. I'm not familiar with the ones being described in this thread. John
There are actually two that i did not know about:
http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After...ProValveCover/


The PermaDryPlus uses a silicone rubber sealing surface, which is much more resistant to heat and age then rugular rubber. This is the preferred gasket.
http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After.../Permadryplus/

The regular (older) PermaDry gasket uses molded rubber, which should still be better than cork.
http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After...over/Permadry/
Old Mar 11, 2010 | 12:03 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
The PermaDryPlus uses a silicone rubber sealing surface, which is much more resistant to heat and age then rugular rubber. This is the preferred gasket.
http://www.federalmogul.com/en/After.../Permadryplus/
Several guys who drag race were telling me they've rebuilt their motors SEVERAL times and have 3 sets of these and are STILL using their 1st set.

Highly recommended as well.
I'm going to try to do the Permatex bit and see if that does anything.
If that fails, I'm going to try either the blue silicone version or the Permadryplus.

Thanks for commenting folks.
Old Mar 27, 2010 | 08:36 AM
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Those gaskets work well with M/T covers. Straight clean cast aluminum will not bend out of shape easily (just break!) and hold their form better than the sheet steel. Use the high tack (damned good stuff) with cork/ steel covers always. Invert bolt hole dimples if you want them to seal.
Never use blue silicone on anything but a Chevy, or Ford product.
Jim
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