That's exactly what I've done today, Had 15* of play

 

15* is not play you have gone into slop territory.

 

oke, but this is what i mentioned when I was turning from 12* BTDP > 0*eventually at 3* after 0* the rotor moved. I will try to take a picture when I have the sprockets and chain Eric, should I post the picture in this thread or must I do that somewhere else?

 

I moved your post to its own thread.

 

Much obliged! you will here soon from me!

 

Just received an e-mail of the V8-doctor, 15* of play on the is now confirmed (for some this picture is chocking or not) cam sprocket has jumped 4 TEETH(see arrows). new sprocket and chain are ordered (even better than Colyes) can't remeber the brand. soon the oilpan will removed for cleaning.

Ruben

 

You are going to find lots of nylon bits in the oil pan from the teeth on the big gear. That looks like it was a factory gear and I don't see any nylon left on it anywhere.

 

Wow, how did that 350 run? Probably the Rollmaster timing set with the German roller chain.

 

The 350 did run normal far as I know. But after sawing this, I think its only get to run better. I suppose the parts were all original. Not bad for 44 years, haha.

 

Pfffft, I think you could have gotten 5 or 6 more miles out of that one. Yes it should run much better with a new one.

 

UPDATE

Oldsie is on the road again!

New cam set, engine rubbers, crackseals, gaskets, pulleys aligned. Drives like new again!

Only one problem: the alternator pulley is slipping to much. I have been told that there is double pulley for AcDelco alternator. Maybe that will fix the problem. hope to find 1 here in the netherlands. here some photos!

 

You should not need a double pulley, just tighten the belt some more.

 

I tried that already, no results. how far can I go? I'm afraid that overtighten the alternator bearing.

 

From the looks of that 2nd-from-bottom picture in your post above, it looks like you have close to 1.5" (38 cm) of adjustment left on that bottom bolt holding your alternator to its bracket. If you are tightening the alternator bearing, you are tightening the wrong bolt. Just loosen that bottom bolt in the alternator bracket, use a pry-bar to push the alternator body away from the engine to tighten the belt, then re-tighten the bottom bracket bolt. There should be around 1/2 to 3/4" (1.3-1.9 cm) of deflection in the belt along its longest span (between the alternator and the crank pulley) when you apply finger-pressure to the belt.


BTW, what the heck is that hose going from the driver's side wheel well to your air cleaner in the bottom picture? Some sort of euro-smog setup?

 

thanks for the advice johnny, I will look at that. That (hose) you see, is the LPG-supply hose from LPG-vaporizer to LPG-mixer.

 

Everyone worries about oil pressure and hi-volume on these Oldsmobile engines. This is another example of even though the oil screen was near plugged the engine "probably" wasn't hurt. (Street driven) A couple weeks ago I was going through my 425/400 crankshafts because I'm going to take one to be machined for the pilot bearing/manual crankshaft. 4 crankshafts, all std/std. Hmmmm I had a 1967 425 froze up engine. I pulled it apart. Same looking timing chain, no neoprene, pulled the oil pan. Oil pump screen packed with neoprene and nasty thick tar like oil. I got the engine from a machine shop 20+years ago after customer never came through with any $. I figured it had to have a spun bearing. Nope, crankshaft looked good, std/std.I was amazed.