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I Need Help! New Waterpump on 72 S 350. Now Belts Won't Line Up
I just replaced the Waterpump on my 72 Cutlass 350 because the bearings were making noise. I took the old off and installed the new and now the pulleys don't line up. It has factory power steering and that's it besides the alternator. Two groove pulley on the crank and waterpump. Now only one groove lines up.
Did they offer more than one waterpump? I got it at O'Reillys.
Edit: I put alternator in place of water pump in last question. My brain is cooked.
Last edited by Rocketdriver; June 17th, 2016 at 06:24 PM.
It measures at about 5 1/8" from the mounting surface to the top of the pulley hub. Nobody in town has one. Napa ordered one from Chicago but I have my doubts. Good Guys is 2 weeks away and if all else fails I'll put the old one back on for the show. I only live a few miles from the event.
Any ideas on a stripped hole in the timing cover. It's the 1/4 x 20 bolt on the lower right side if you're looking at it.
It was for a 72 350 without air. It measured around 5.5 inches I think.
I think my pump is from a 70? That's the only way the parts stores could find a shorter shaft.
Store is wrong
prior to oh 1973 the short pump at 5.1" was for no-ac apps like yours.
the long pump [of that era, now the "medium" pump] at 5.6" was for with AC/HDC
So, ANY model w/o AC prior to 70 should be 5.1"
Like say 66-67 Toronado
There are however other diffs such as will the radiator hose fit over the inlet nipple.
Your have the oddball 70-72 range where they used hard to find combinations.
One could get a matching lower radiator hose perhaps.
The alternative is to get a different pulley with a deeper bell to offset that difference.
==================
That's a long tough road to get pulleys right by adding even more non-std parts. In my experience.
Get the right WP. Dragon slain.
bolt- stripped eh?
Note: There is no 7/16 anything there unless someone put a non-factory 1/4" bolt in there, then it would be the tool size, which is not how fasteners are specified, as it is the LEAST important feature.
w/o access to the back to weld a nut on, your best bet is to install the next size larger fastener. 1/4 is oh 6.24mm so 6mm is no go, that leaves 5/16". You will want a fastener with a small head for tool clearance, such as a socket head cap screw or 12-pt drive as used on headers and intakes. But, the proper diameter.
Last edited by Octania; June 18th, 2016 at 05:03 PM.
It was for a 72 350 without air. It measured around 5.5 inches I think.
I think my pump is from a 70? That's the only way the parts stores could find a shorter shaft.
In an old thread, a member bought this part # 5511135 from Rock Auto and it fit.
I ended up buying an overpriced parts master part, ( the one just under 5 1/8") 3-343. I've had on my car for almost 6 years now, no problems. It was expensive when I bought, but the prices have come down almost 50%.
I can attest that the 3-343 will fit. But it'd wish it'd tried the Cardone part, it's more readily available and cheaper. The Part master pump was listed for something weird like a 67 delmont 88 or something, but it was the right shaft length, so I tried it, and it fit.
Store is wrong
prior to oh 1973 the short pump at 5.1" was for no-ac apps like yours.
the long pump [of that era, now the "medium" pump] at 5.6" was for with AC/HDC
So, ANY model w/o AC prior to 70 should be 5.1"
Like say 66-67 Toronado
There are however other diffs such as will the radiator hose fit over the inlet nipple.
Your have the oddball 70-72 range where they used hard to find combinations.
One could get a matching lower radiator hose perhaps.
The alternative is to get a different pulley with a deeper bell to offset that difference.
==================
That's a long tough road to get pulleys right by adding even more non-std parts. In my experience.
Get the right WP. Dragon slain.
bolt- stripped eh?
Note: There is no 7/16 anything there unless someone put a non-factory 1/4" bolt in there, then it would be the tool size, which is not how fasteners are specified, as it is the LEAST important feature.
w/o access to the back to weld a nut on, your best bet is to install the next size larger fastener. 1/4 is oh 6.24mm so 6mm is no go, that leaves 5/16". You will want a fastener with a small head for tool clearance, such as a socket head cap screw or 12-pt drive as used on headers and intakes. But, the proper diameter.
I was going to edit out the 7/16 of after I realized I put the socket size instead of the actual bolt size but I figured people would get it.
I'm having the same issue. I could have sworn that I verified the shaft length was the same but clearly I did not. Problem is this, I have a 70 with a 455 with a/c and auto trans, so I got a water pump using that information. Now the pulleys don't line up. The engine is apparently from a later year model so I don't know what year to use when looking for parts. Additionally, I don't know if the a/c, power steering, and alternator came with my car or with the donor engine, though I assume the latter.
In any case, does anyone know for certain if I can just get a different pulley as was mentioned here? Or should I just go back to AutoZone and get a pump for a later year model? I was hoping this swap would work out since the pump I got has a much larger impeller, so I would love to just get a pulley that would work but am doubtful such a simple swap exists. Does anyone know?
You will discover that the water pump hose fitting for 70-and older is 2" diameter and for 71-newer is 1.75".
This matches up the the different sizes of outlet nipples on the radiator: 70-older is 1.75" and 71-newer is 1.5".
So, you need to match up not only the shaft length but the hose nipple diameter unless you want to get involved with finding a lower radiator hose to fit.
From your pics, it appears you have pumps with different size inlets.
Last edited by Fun71; July 23rd, 2016 at 02:03 PM.
Like Olds motor mount listings, Olds water pump listings in catalogs are pretty much guaranteed to be incorrect. There are two key dimensions, the length as shown in the diagrams above and the inlet diameter. The inlet is less critical, since a different inlet size can be accommodated with a matching hose.
On an engine swap like John's, just bring the old pump to the store and match it up.
June 17th, 2016, 06:18 PM
