Won’t start after sitting for two days.
#1
Won’t start after sitting for two days.
My 55 Super 88 324 with an Edelbrock 4 barrel carburetor starts and runs fine as long as I start it every day. If I skip a day, the engine won’t start without a shot of starter fluid. It’s obvious to me that the gas reserves in the carb must be going somewhere. I don’t see any fuel leaking onto the engine nor do I smell any. Any ideas? It’s a real pain to remove and replace the air cleaner just to back out of the garage. I filled the tank with no ethanol gas as soon as I got it a few weeks ago. Don’t know what fuel was used before me. And it’s not a cranking issue as I have read in some other posts. It starts immediately after the shot of starter fluid.
Last edited by Dave’s Holiday 55; July 26th, 2021 at 05:09 PM. Reason: Left out some info.
#5
My 72 cutlass with an e brock does the same thing. I think most old cars wit carburetors do too. Just crank it over for about 5 to10 seconds and pump the throttle to the floor one time. Repeat this about 3 to 4 times and it should start without priming it. Alcohol or not i think all modern fuel is crap for carbureted cars.
#6
Yep, Gary is right, todays fuel boils away easily, even non ethanol gas. There is no reason for anti vapor lock additives or whatever they use (used) because 99% of vehicles are fuel injected. I have a old lawn mower with a bad battery that I don't want to spend the 50 bucks for a battery as it is a POS. Anyway, I drilled a small hole in the intake that I can put the straw of a can of either in, a small squirt and it starts quick like that. Not saying you would want to drill a hole in your original air cleaner, but is there a place you could squirt some in with out having to take all apart?
#7
I would not assume, after 2 days look down into the carb and operate the throttle linkage, you should see 2 strong squirts of fuel spraying down into the carb throat. If you see fuel your issue is something else. Could be your tune, a vacuum leak, etc...
#8
Thanks for the tip but I really don’t want to pop the hood in Wal-mart parking lot to get the car started. And I’m enough of a perfectionist that my car should start without extra steps. My plan is to put in a new fuel filter and replace non-metallic fuel lines. Some of those may be 66 years old.
#9
I will eyeball the inside of the carb this morning. The car has been sitting for three days now while I wait for a windshield wiper motor gasket to arrive in the mail. Pretty sure it won’t start so I’ll look for the gas squirt before even turning the key.
#10
Went out this morning and pumped the throttle linkage at the carb and did not see any gas squirting. Got in the car, pumped the gas several times and looked into the carb again. Bone dry. Tried the crank and pump method four or five times with no success. One small squirt of ether and started immediately. Changed the fuel filter and rubber lines from the metallic line from the tank to the fuel pump and on to the carb. We’ll see if it makes any difference in a couple of days. I did notice a little wetness on the fuel pump. I’ll keep an eye on that.
#13
After replacing the parts mentioned above, I just checked the carb again moving the throttle linkage several times. No squirts. Is the accelerator pump inside the carb? Is that a part I can buy by itself or do I need a full carb overhaul kit? I hate to sound like a dummy but I have gotten too complacent by having new cars for too long. I love this old car and want it to be in good health.
#14
Talk to member Tedd Thompson as I can recall he has the most experience recently with the accelerator pumps for these old cars of your vintage.
ClassicOldsmobile.com - View Profile: Tedd Thompson
ClassicOldsmobile.com - View Profile: Tedd Thompson
#16
I watched a video this afternoon and now I understand where the accelerator pump is and how to test it. I noticed that the pump actuator lever has three holes in it where the throttle linkage is attached. It is currently in the middle hole. I wonder if moving it to the last hole, thereby increasing the stroke length, would have any effect. Or is the cup and spring just worn out and needs a new one. Also, according to the guy in the video, the tiny needle and check ball in the accelerator pump outlet could be clogged. Looks like I might be taking apart my first carburetor.
#17
If your accelerator pump is not working you would be experiencing a terrible bog every time you tried ro accelerate quickly. My Cutlass also takes a lot of cranking after it sits for a few days and it has an electric fuel pump so fuel shortage at the carb isn't the problem. Also I have strong jets of fuel coming from the accel pump. I have a carb kit coming so will see if that makes any difference. Have you checked the operation of your choke?
#18
I do have a hesitation when starting up from a stop sign. It then “gathers” itself with a small surge. I believe that the choke is working. I never see any jets of fuel even on acceleration while I move the throttle linkage by hand. I think my next step will be to make sure the carb is full of gas, then disconnect the accelerator pump linkage and move the pump manually the full extent of its range. Even if I don’t see any jets of gas I should be able to feel the resistance of the cup moving against the walls. If it is just floppy loose, I’ll need a new pump, at least. I’m hesitant to tear into the carb unless absolutely forced to. I’m also wondering if the accelerator pump jets might be clogged. I saw that on a YouTube video the other day. It’s 100 degrees in my garage right now so I’ll wait until morning.
#19
Success. Turns out the problem was the accelerator pump. Not the pump itself but the tiny check ball down below the accelerator pump jets. It was stuck. Removed the weight, soaked the ball chamber with carb cleaner, gave it a minute, turned the carb upside down and then tapped the bottom with a small hammer handle. It popped right out. Sprayed carb cleaner in the pump cylinder and gave the whole carb a spray. It was already pretty clean. Finished up by spraying compressed air thru the orifices and put it back on the car. Runs great now. Thanks for all the helpful comments.
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