Where to get SS bolt kit for Performer RPM 7111

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Old November 13th, 2015 | 12:07 PM
  #1  
88 Cutty Classic's Avatar
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Where to get SS bolt kit for Performer RPM 7111

i tried the search function first so if i missed the answer please dont crucify me. Does anyone sell a stainless steel bolt kit for the 7111 intake? the guy i spoke with at Edelbrock didnt seem like he was very knowledgeable on the 7111. Or does anyone know the dimensions of all the bolts needed to run this intake? I was probably gonna get an entire engine bolt kit from alloy bolts and they custom tailor kits for your needs.
Old November 13th, 2015 | 12:52 PM
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You can go to a local bolt house once you establish the lengths you need.
Old November 13th, 2015 | 01:44 PM
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I think there is a bolt kit that is allen head maybe summit! I don't remember where i seen it.
Old November 13th, 2015 | 02:29 PM
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yeah i saw one on summit last year or so IDK if it was stainless tho, IIRC there are only 2 bolts that really need a special head I ended up grinding down some allen heads to fit.

for my BBO manifold i just got a pack of 25 SS bolts and 25 SS extra thick washers from amazon the BBO all use regular head bolts
Old November 13th, 2015 | 02:38 PM
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lol here is a review from summit


69 Olds Cutlass 350 Rocket
Summit RacingSummit Racing Verified Purchase

Beautiful Intake!! I bought this new 7111 intake to replace a 7111 intake that I had previously bought used. The used intake was quite old, and had a few stripped holes as well as a leaking thermostat housing (intake surface warped from over torquing, I suspect) I purchased the 12 point intake bolt set as well. I had problems with the #6 and #7 bolts being too close to the intake runners on both intakes, even after pulling the intakes as far forward as possible. Even with the 12 point 3/8" headed bolts there is NO WAY to put a socket or a wrench on it. I even had to grind down the washer just to get the bolt started. Determined to properly torque this bolt down to spec, I ground down a socket hoping it would be thin enough to fit in between the intake runner and the bolt. After a couple of hours of working with this bolt, and using a pair of vice grips, ground down wrench and a ground down socket, I was able to hear the torque wrench finally "click" at 25-foot lbs. Horrible experience and now my intake is gaulled and scratched up. You'd think Edelbrock would have fixed this issue long ago. Funny thing is, they even supplied 2 black oxide bolts just for these 2 difficult locations, so they ARE aware of the issue. They did throw in 2 cast iron crossover plugs...thanks.

here is a link to the bolt kit cad plated notes say not for 7111

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8514/overview/

heres the SS bolts i used on the BBO intake (you need four shorter ones as well)

Hex Cap Screws 316 Stainless Steel - 3/8-16 x 2 Partial Thread Qty-25: Cap Screws And Hex Bolts: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific Hex Cap Screws 316 Stainless Steel - 3/8-16 x 2 Partial Thread Qty-25: Cap Screws And Hex Bolts: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Last edited by RetroRanger; November 13th, 2015 at 02:45 PM.
Old November 13th, 2015 | 04:12 PM
  #6  
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They no doubt made the 7111 with the smaller bolt so they didn't have to kink the runner. The short ones are barely long enough. The long bolt will fit with a little pressure and a smaller washer. Basically what the oxide bolt is that comes with the intake.
Old November 15th, 2015 | 05:48 PM
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Ive serched dimensions and i cant find exactly what they are. Alloyboltz will make me up a set, i just gotta give them the numbers.
Old November 15th, 2015 | 07:17 PM
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i bought a bolt kit and found it was better to go to the local hardware store and find nice bolts and what i needed. For the short bolt i use a washer i made along with an allen bolt.
Old November 16th, 2015 | 05:30 PM
  #9  
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imo SS bolts are awful. They don't take heat well, they stretch too easily and are prone to seizing when exposed to (screwed into) dissimilar metals. They use them on John Deere engines and some ford engines for exhaust manifold studs and they break all of the time. We had to make a special drill pilot fixture for the 6.4l ford heads to drill them out. The only thing they are good for is sailboat construction. You would be better off with some nice cad plated bolts.
Old November 17th, 2015 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by gs72
imo SS bolts are awful. They don't take heat well, they stretch too easily and are prone to seizing when exposed to (screwed into) dissimilar metals. They use them on John Deere engines and some ford engines for exhaust manifold studs and they break all of the time. We had to make a special drill pilot fixture for the 6.4l ford heads to drill them out. The only thing they are good for is sailboat construction. You would be better off with some nice cad plated bolts.

car is a street cruiser. will probably be around 300 hp. I want stainless more for show than go.
Old November 20th, 2015 | 07:35 AM
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I had a similar issue installing the 7111, with the #6 & #7 bolts. You have to use the included small-head bolts with the intake for them to fit, and I still had to doctor the intake some.

I used a paper roll for head porting and ground a recess into the runner to clear the bolt/wrench better. Once it's in the hole, it sits further down, and clears the runner better.

I used 12-point bolts, and a box end wrench that has a smaller head.

The bolts there are 3/8 -16 thread by 2" long. You can buy a regular intake bolt kit, and purchase matching pair of bolts with small heads.

.
Old November 20th, 2015 | 07:49 AM
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Why not use socket head cap screws?
Old November 20th, 2015 | 08:45 AM
  #13  
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i would get allen heads if i knew the sizes for all the bolts. lol
Old November 20th, 2015 | 10:07 AM
  #14  
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I have a database of many Olds engine bolt details.

perhaps PM me with an email address I can send info to?

I can put some info here also but not right now as I am at work [lunch]
Old November 20th, 2015 | 12:55 PM
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Heads are too big for socket head/allen bolts, they won't fit in those 2 locations on a 7111.

.
Old November 20th, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #16  
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yeah i had to turn down the head of two socket head cap screws to make them fit one a lot one little, even then the one i turned alot was pita...i think edlebrock offered an AN head size IIRC im not to sure on the designation but it was almost like a threaded rod w a very small head

similar to this style the issue is the length and angle doesnt allow even the SHCS to clear the runner so even if you get a bolt in there the tool to fasten it with doesnt clear the runner to tighten it.. if think the smaller head size (like pictured below) with a short socket and wobble ext will do it or turn down a SHCS and do the best you can w that



Last edited by RetroRanger; November 20th, 2015 at 02:04 PM.
Old November 20th, 2015 | 02:02 PM
  #17  
ELY442's Avatar
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Originally Posted by 88 Cutty Classic
i tried the search function first so if i missed the answer please dont crucify me. Does anyone sell a stainless steel bolt kit for the 7111 intake? the guy i spoke with at Edelbrock didnt seem like he was very knowledgeable on the 7111. Or does anyone know the dimensions of all the bolts needed to run this intake? I was probably gonna get an entire engine bolt kit from alloy bolts and they custom tailor kits for your needs.
I dont know if its the same but I bought my SS bolt kit for my Torker from Mondellos and the bolt heads are a 12 point.
Old November 20th, 2015 | 03:22 PM
  #18  
Octania's Avatar
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Originally Posted by HWYSTR455
Heads are too big for socket head/allen bolts, they won't fit in those 2 locations on a 7111.
Really? What a pain.

I guess that rules out ferry screws

https://www.fastenal.com/products?te...02:^3/8%22-16$|~

Bolts database says 2.00" & 1.25" are your lengths for the stock intakes.
Old November 21st, 2015 | 06:38 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Octania
Really? What a pain.

I guess that rules out ferry screws

https://www.fastenal.com/products?te...02:^3/8%22-16$|~

Bolts database says 2.00" & 1.25" are your lengths for the stock intakes.
Those should work. I use ARP, but the black oxide ones rust if you hit them with a wrench a bunch of times, it removes the coating. If you hit them with WD-40 before you install/tighten them, they last longer, as long as you don't keep tightening them.

Mine have been on and off like 20 times.

.
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