Redog

Another member got me thinking, what am I going to be looking at HP wise.

1967 Hi compression 330
4 heads (looking to)
-new valves possibllly stainless
-new springs
-3 angle valve job
-hardened seats (for unleaded)
-mild P&P
-block cross overs
sticking with the stock cam .434/.434 (or .434/.432 can't remember)
double roller timing chain
mondello valley tray
Edelbrock manifold 3711 which I'm going to P&P a little
Holley carb maybe 700 CFM
headers (don't know the size, depends on the car I get and what's ava)
180* thermo


Not right now, but I'm looking to do roller tip rockers. That will be after I'm board with the above and want to add more before a rebuild

J-(Chicago)

In my opinion there are some big money pits you're about to fall into.

New valves - good idea, if your stock ones are too worn out.
valve job - good idea
New springs - a good idea if you run a better cam
Hardened seats - I wouldn't bother if your current seats are fine.
P+P - good idea.
Block x overs - good idea.
Stock cam - bad idea.
Double roller - unnecessesary. reg steel is fine
Mondello tray - don't bother. I don't even think it will bolt to a small block.
I wouldn't bother porting the intake manifold.
Holleys are nice, but not on a daily driver gas wise
Headers - great idea.
Thermostat -180 is ok

cutlassefi

IMO change the cam to something a little more aggressive but mild. A Qjet or Quick Fuel 650-670 would be better. Great tuneability and not alot of money. But use a good chain and gears that alow you to degree/change the cam timing.

Redog

Since I'm taking the heads off, why not just get them ready for the day I put a new cam in?

I would like to get the JM-22-25-10 cam, but how hard is it to replae the cam bearings?

Had the Mondello tray in my 350

No P&P mani, OK. I was going to do this myself anyway

cutlassefi

Too much cam for a 3711 intake imo.

J-(Chicago)

The cam bearings are a breeze, if you have the proper tool and attachments to pop them in. Make sure your journals checked out ok first though.

I'd take Cutlassefi's advice on cam selection.

As far as heads being "ready" , there's a wide area of "readiness" to be considered for your application.

Just to give you an idea of what I did on last year's build:

1969 455. Bore gauge read 7 tenthou out of round. So I ridge reamed, and dingle ball honed it in the garage with WD-40.
Stock rods, stock pistons with 30cc dish. They all mic'd up within factory tolerances.
This beautiful motor laying in the mud was only 250 bucks at the junkyard. It had new springs, pushrods, and rockers, 2 flat cam lobes and 2 broken pushrods.
-$300 After mineral spirits, gas, and wd-40
Sold the bare C heads for $150, and picked up a 50 buck set of G's. -$200
One head needed a guide knurled, shop charged 25 bucks. The others were nice. -$225
Valves mic'd ok, but replaced one that had some pits on the shaft. the 2 missing Pushrods, 1 valve, and 2 rockers I acquired free from a member on here.
Gaskets&paint -$325
Crank Kit -$625
Oil pump -$675
Heads milled .060 -$800
Comp 262xe cam&lifters -$950
Cam bearings and rings -$1010
Home brewed porting with carbide bits -$1050
2 angle valve job on my buddy's old Sioux grinder -$1100
Oil, motor mounts, break in oil, melling timing set -$1200
9.26:1 compression, 85 delta 88, 3.23 gear, 13.16 E.T. @ 105 with no tuning, points, and a stock 72 delta qjet. timing was 15 initial 35 total.

Half luck, half skill. I lucked out with some decent parts for cheap, and saved $ where I could without 1/2 assing things.
Roller tips and Mondello tray won't buy you any horsepower in my opinion. Spend $ on your heads, compression, or rear end.
My personal belief, The cheapest you're going to get away with, and still make power, is the route I went.

Redog

I don't have to use that intake

Redog

Do I have to remove the crank to replace the bearings?

cutlassefi

No but it sure makes it alot easier.

J-(Chicago)

A LOT easier lol. You have to line up all the oil passages, and do them in sequence.

Redog

I was reading about replacing cam bearings.

Everything I was has the crank out and the guy putting them in, etc,etc.

No Olds motors though, a few Fords and a Chevy or two, plus a lot of articals do talk about lining up the oil gallies and just having a machine shop do it.

I'm thinking I might just save the cam part until the rebuild