I'm planning to put headers on my convertible project. I've never installed headers before and have a few questions for those of you that have more experience than I. It seems like ground clearance is always a concern, and the lowest point on the header is the 3-bolt flange at the collectors. Could you cut off the flange and use a band clamp to connect to the intermediate pipe on the exhaust system?

I'm looking at Hooker 3901 headers for my SBO which have a 2-1/2" collector and my exhaust pipes will be 2-1/2" as well. Seems like a simple connection. Am I missing something about the 3-bolt flange on the collector?
Thanks!

 

Band clamps work well, but it seems like a lot of trouble to gain a 1/2 inch.

 

Most bands are used for a slip fit, but you can also get specific butt fit bands. Slip will give a better seal and be stronger, but the pipe (not the header) needs to be expanded to slip over the header - and you need enough pipe!

This may not be necessary, depending on the header and how much the car is lowered.

 

This is what I use.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-15938/overview/

Get the non-coated headers. Cut the flanges off and weld on the ball n socket parts. Install the headers including any necessary dings, dents, and cuss words. Then remove them and get them ceramic coated.

Not the most convenient order of operations, but the best end result. I did pound on my coated headers and the coating it still holding up strong, your results may vary.

 

Who coated your header mrnick

 

I bought them already coated, new "second hand" from somebody local. The shop I used had a hell of a time welding the ball flanges due to the coating.

However, I have used CPC in Crest Hill for other stuff and have been happy with their work. http://www.cpcpowdercoating.com/

 

Nick:
Thanks for the suggestion on the ball flange. That looks like a better connector than a band clamp. Does it matter which end gets the ball and which gets the flange? I was thinking the weld the ball to the header and the flange to the down pipe.

 

I agree that all these suggestions seem silly for a half inch.

 

One might not gain much clearance by going to the ball / flange kit; however, it makes sealing the headers 100 times easier. If you ever develop a leak between the ball and flange all you have to do is disassemble the connection, clean it thoroughly and reassemble.

The headers I have on my 71 98 came with a ball / flange style connection and they are great! Of course, I never have trouble scrapping my headers. I'm sure you could change to P235/75 R15s and not have to worry about scrapping your headers either!

 

I have suggested and way to get that 1/2 inch that i have used before on here and several posted back in pms that it worked.PM sent to op.

 

wr1970:
I read your PM, thank you for the tip. I have 2 questions for you about your tip which I'll call the "floor jack method". Have you ever cracked any pipes loose at the head flange by bending the pipes upward with the floor jack, and how much were you able to raise the collector height? Thanks!

 

I have never had a crack because of the HEAT when applied the jack. If you did it cold you might get a crack. As for height the cross member is as high as you can go. Don't worry it will relax just enough not to rub and make noise because of where you mount the hanger. That Hanger is critical to maintain the position. I have never had a pipe collapse with severe kink. The advantage is you can watch as you are doing the jacking because once you get up to cross member you are done. What you can not control is the bends in the pipes up forward if that is your low point. Guys with lowered cars need a different method for getting the front end of headers higher. This is for rear end of headers only.

 

Good to know. thanks!

 

I am also assuming that you have bought the correct header in the first place.

 

I'm looking at Hooker 3901s for my stroked SBO. Some have said they hang a bit low.