Hello everyone!! My '77 Buick Electra has a tired 403 with 130k miles. It's leaking coolant from a couple freeze plugs and it overheats on long trips. I got the block glowing once, I've given up on trying to find out why. This car did not overheat before I had a "reputable" garage replace the bad chain 2 years ago. I posted that nightmare on the forum a while back.
I just swapped out the 400TH trans with one I had in the garage. It was rebuilt in 2004 and was removed from my beloved '78 Buick Electra in 2010. That car was my daily driver for 18 years. The trans is leaking at the shifter but I'm hoping it's leaking because it was sitting for almost 4 years. Maybe the seal got a little stiff and could work it's way back, who knows. I'm hoping it's an easy fix if needed. The old one got stuck in park. Not one person I talked to could tell me why. Hell, most never heard of a trans getting stuck in park. I removed the linkage from the trans and tried to move it, it wouldn't budge!
Now, the reason I'm here. I acquired a used 403 with 62k miles. Only the intake was removed but I have it. I have another set of heads that were rebuilt but I want to wait until I have the engine in the car and running. I have a rebuilt OEM carb. The engine is on the stand in the garage. So far I ordered a complete distributor, water pump, fuel pump and gaskets to install the intake. I'm replacing the valve cover gaskets too. My question is, what else should I replace on this motor. The chain seems tight and I have not had much luck with replacing chains (Buick 350). I almost always get a leak where you cut out for the oil pan gasket. That's why I took it to a garage.
I want to replace the freeze out plugs in the block with brass ones but I'm unsure what to use. Should I use RTV or Indian head? Any ideas? Should I use anything at all? I've been spoiled starting out with a short block on most of my engine jobs. I have to do this one on the cheap. I hate that word when it comes to my car but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not looking to booger it up and throw it in. I want it right with what I have. Money is extremely tight. This will undoubtedly be my "last" engine job. My health isn't what it used to be and I'm getting up there in age. (Chuckle)
I would like you good folks to throw me some helpful hints that could help me get this done. It will be slow, I can only do so much a day. I remember a time when I could have an engine ready, starting with a short block, and installed in one day. Those days are gone. Anyway, any ideas will help. Thanks guys!

 

I would do timing chain and gears, freeze plugs, pan gasket and rear main seal, at a minimum. I would do the heads while it is on the stand too, that is the easiest place to do it. I would check the mains and rods while pan is off and the oil pump as well.

All pretty easy and fairly cheap.

 

If it really has only 62K I'd just replace all the gaskets and call it good. I don't think I would worry about the freeze plugs unless the inside of the heads are extra rusty.

 

I checked the chain/gears this morning using a scope camera and it looks new. According to the previous owner, the engine sat in his garage for 6 years. He claimed to have turned the engine at least once a month. I fired off an email to him this morning to confirm the chain/gears were changed. I'm waiting on the reply. If he says he didn't change them, I guess I will. Makes sense. He said he planned to put it in his Skylark but the car was stolen before he could get it ready.
I scoped one of the cylinders and it looks clean. No rust or bluing of the cylinder wall was evident. The wall in cylinder one, the one I scoped appears to show the previous owner was telling the truth about the mileage. There's barely a noticeable ridge on the top of the wall. As for the heads, they also appear undamaged. They do have some carbon build up but that's normal. I left the engine dirty "as is" until I could inspect it further.
As for gaskets, the oil pan is not leaking but there was the normal amount of seepage. I'm a little leery about changing the oil pan gasket. That would mean I would have to remove the timing cover too. I'm hoping and crossing my fingers that these gaskets will not need changing. Like I said, I have no choice but to do this on the cheap.
As for the freeze plugs, one looks like it was replaced at some time. It would be the one behind the starter. It looks newer than all the others. All the other one's appear the same. There was some rust behind the water pump which could mean the freeze plugs are in need of replacing. Rust in the cooling passages makes me nervous. Especially when the other freeze plugs look like they have a minimal amount of rust around the edges. Maybe they were leaking or could that happen from sitting in a garage? I talked to a friend of mine who was in the engine rebuild business for over 30 years. It was a family business. He swears by using "Indian Head" on the freeze plugs.
The main seal does not show any signs of leaking but I would hate to find it leaking after it's in the car. That would suck! There's no sign of a leak anyway. The flywheel is free of any tell tale signs and there's no wet spots running down the back. I'm crossing my fingers on that too. I've had pretty good success with "Junkyard" engines in the past that I checked out before installing. They aren't very careful getting them out of vehicles and the last one I had was a BIG smoker for the first hours. The people behind me were not happy. I guess that motor was rolled around a bit in the yard. I put over 80k on that motor.
I already have a rebuilt set of heads for this engine but I'm going to wait until the engine is in and running before I even think about putting them on. Thanks for all the suggestions.
I'll be sure to let everyone know how this job turns out.

 

So I bit the bullet and decided to rip the engine almost all the way down. I'm leaving the crank and pistons alone. I did not notice any excessive play on the crank to rod bearings. I had a hell of a time getting the crank timing gear off! The chain was replaced but the person who did it used a pipe wrench or something similar on the crank! (Picture attached) I had to use some plumbers emery cloth to smooth it out enough to get the new gear on. I just hope it's smooth enough to get the new balancer on. I'm guessing that using a little RTV or Indian head on the balancer where it contacts the shaft won't hurt since the crank was scarred.
I got a new Melling high volume oil pump, drive shaft and pick up. Does anyone know how to attach the pick up screen to the pump? It looks like it just pushes in but I don't think that's right.
I also bought a new Tough One loaded distributor and water pump. Next I will install the new oil pump but as I said, I'm a little confused about how to attach the pick up screen.
I'm going a little slow with this build. I've never done an engine with less than a short block. Health issues are a problem too. I can only do so much each day.
I'm definitely taking lots of pictures and documenting everything I'm doing. I can brag later if everything works. If this fails, I can cry about how much time and money was spent.

 

Quote:

Used 403, what should I replace?

Jack up the air cleaner and replace everything under it.

It's not necessary to put anything on the crankshaft snout, other than perhaps a light film of oil, when you reinstall the balancer. I'd take a nice flat knife sharpening stone (fine side) or fine emery cloth on a flat wood block and carefully dress the areas where it's gouged.

The pickup tube for the oil pump does just press in, unless the Mellings has a bolt on screen, in which case you'll have to purchase a matching pickup tube/screen.

Scott

 

I just happened to notice something today. While BSing with my neighbor standing over the engine, I noticed the oil slinger may be missing. Does anyone know if this 403 is supposed to have an oil slinger in front of the timing gear? The chassis service manual shows a slinger but the chapter covers the Olds 403 and Olds 350. I'm not sure if they are on in the same. I can say the 403 I'm slowly fixing came out of a '77 TA. I'm just not sure about the slinger. I ran into another problem, after installing the new oil pump and pick up, the oil pan will not go back on. The drain bolt is hitting the oil pump body. Looks like trying to save $ on this build is not going to happen. Looks like I need to either put the OEM pump in or get a deep oil pan.

 

Yes, you need the oil singer. I would just get a new regular volume selling pump and pick up. Are you sure that pick up is for the stock pan?

 

What heads are you putting on it?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 455man

What heads are you putting on it?

I'm using the heads that were on it. I've decided to get this engine installed then rebuild the original one. I'm hoping the engine lasts at least a year. I'm going to remove the high volume pump and install an OEM pump and screen. Save the pump for the other engine. Money is much too tight to rush this engine along, I need time to scratch up the doe. I'm just going to get it running and redo the original.
I've asked around about getting the original engine done and I'm getting outrageous quotes. A long block done with my core is running $3900.00 (standard, no upgrades) and up! That sounds a bit high. I got my 350 done for $1800.00 and that was with a radical cam set up. I've seen Tuff Dog engines ready for an intake for about $3900.00.
Anyway, I'm just going to slow this down and do the original engine right.
I bought a slinger off Ebay. I could not find one "new" that was labeled for this engine. I saw a few for Cutlass and others that go "72. Not sure if that makes it the same or not. This engine is a '77 from a TA.