Trying to get the best MPG out of my 350 olds
#1
Trying to get the best MPG out of my 350 olds
I have a 72 cutlass with the 350 rocket and a 72 quadrajet 750 cfm on it. It has the TH350 tranny. I have rebuilt the qjet myself, and have a good tall 14" air cleaner on it. Stock intake manifold. And i'm running the stock points style ignition setup. And true dual exhaust with no cats and flowmaster 40 knockoffs. Also recent tune up, and new mechanical fuel pump, fuel filter, and cap and button. What all can I do to get the best possible fuel economy? And yes I realize I will probably never see over 20mpg. But I would like to get as close to 20 as possible. Last I checked i'm getting like 15.6 mpg. Doing about 75% highway and 25% city.
Last edited by cuttysupreme72; August 15th, 2012 at 09:49 PM.
#2
If your car is all tuned and mechanically sound? You're already where you should be. That rating you have is about what they got when they were new.
The only other ways to get better mpg out of your car is to drive like an old man, or put some of those horrendous 2:56 gears in it. If mileage is important to you, practice good fuel sense driving habits. IMO, You're about the only variable that can make any significant difference to your mileage at this stage.
The only other ways to get better mpg out of your car is to drive like an old man, or put some of those horrendous 2:56 gears in it. If mileage is important to you, practice good fuel sense driving habits. IMO, You're about the only variable that can make any significant difference to your mileage at this stage.
#3
If your car is all tuned and mechanically sound? You're already where you should be. That rating you have is about what they got when they were new.
The only other ways to get better mpg out of your car is to drive like an old man, or put some of those horrendous 2:56 gears in it. If mileage is important to you, practice good fuel sense driving habits. IMO, You're about the only variable that can make any significant difference to your mileage at this stage.
The only other ways to get better mpg out of your car is to drive like an old man, or put some of those horrendous 2:56 gears in it. If mileage is important to you, practice good fuel sense driving habits. IMO, You're about the only variable that can make any significant difference to your mileage at this stage.
#5
#7
#9
It really looks sweet! Mine needs the body gone over. One of the previous owners did a frightening bondo job on it. It looks like they slapped it on in a few places then took a wood file to it, and spray painted over it. Gotta love ugly bondo craters.
#11
the best thing you could do is rear end gears and a 200 4R transmission. if you are getting 15.6 now, the OD transmission alone will put you very close to 20 and maybe over if the lock up converter is hooked up.
#12
I was actually debating on a 700r4 because I have one hanging out in my garage, but it come off of a 350 chevy. So I dont know if the bell housing pattern would match up, or the drive shaft for that matter. And What is a lockup? Are you talking about a stall converter? I know alot about engines, but I'm only familliar with manual trannys. This is the first automatic I have had for longer than two weeks. Also isn't a 200r4 a "weaker" tranny? I had always heard that they dont hold up as well. Ironically enough I have heard the same about the 700r4.
Last edited by cuttysupreme72; August 16th, 2012 at 03:37 AM.
#13
You can build a 2004r to take way more punishment then you'll most likely ever going to give it. In stock form it's not the most durable trans, but one of the better ones ( like from a 80's 442, GN, or Monte SS ) should be good enough.
Easier to just google 'what is a lockup converter' than explain it in detail but in simple terms, a converter is always slipping a little and a lockup converter will eliminate this slipping when cruising around in OD.
Easier to just google 'what is a lockup converter' than explain it in detail but in simple terms, a converter is always slipping a little and a lockup converter will eliminate this slipping when cruising around in OD.
#14
Perhaps you could change to a 2 barrel intake and carburetor. My dad owned a 69 Delta 88 with a 455 and a Rochester 2 jet on it. Of course, the first thing we did was ditch the 2 jet and go to a 4 barrel but he wasn't concerned about fuel economy.
#16
I had a friend of a friend's aquaintence, that said his brother's 3rd cousin, twice removed, who passed on that his father told him that his grandads ol 72 got better than that.
My car gets 7-8 mpg average, going uphill, downhill, headwind, tailwind, etc.. Feel Better!
My car gets 7-8 mpg average, going uphill, downhill, headwind, tailwind, etc.. Feel Better!
#17
That's about what I get with my 72. I think a Q-jet will get better fuel mileage than a 2 bbl if you drive conservatively because the primaries on a 4 are smaller than on a 2. A lot of the 2 bbl also had higher rear gears than the 4 bbl, but mine is 4 bbl with 2.73, so how much do you gain with a 2.56?
I think the main reason newer cars get better mileage is electronics, lower weight (plastic) and more efficient transmissions and gearing. I've thought about transmission changes too, but how many miles of driving more efficiently do you have to do to pay for the cost of changing transmission and or rear gears? Maybe if and when I need a transmission rebuild it would make sense.
I think the main reason newer cars get better mileage is electronics, lower weight (plastic) and more efficient transmissions and gearing. I've thought about transmission changes too, but how many miles of driving more efficiently do you have to do to pay for the cost of changing transmission and or rear gears? Maybe if and when I need a transmission rebuild it would make sense.
#19
I have a 71 S 350/TH350 with a Edelbrock cam/lifter set with edelbrock intake and carb - Headers and 2.5 dual exhaust - and I get no where near 15.6 - I would be happy with that if I where you. - I drive my car every day and average 12-13 mpg - except car show weekends when I tend to kick it a bit more - then I get 10 - so driving style is probably your best tweak at this point - you won't get much better than what you are already.
#21
There ya go, just remove that little link from the primary to secondary throttle shaft. In earlier carbs, 1968??, it was even detachable with a clip!
#22
#23
Check out ecomodder.com they are into saving fuel much like musclecar fans are into going fast. I'm all for a little of both.
Another MPG thread. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...stion-mpg.html
be careful IIRC it has MG content.
Another MPG thread. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...stion-mpg.html
be careful IIRC it has MG content.
#24
My 72 CS with 350, TH350, 2.73 gears and headers would get 20mpg on the highway. Overdrive tranny would help, reducing weight, cold air intake, fuel injection, headers. Depends on how much you want to spend or how far you wanna go. You wont get 30mpg but you could do better than 15.
#25
I agree with the others. It sounds like you've got the 350 tuned as well as you can and good job, too! Besides driving like there is an egg under your foot, the next step would be overdrive. With a 200-4R or 700-R4, you will get better acceleration of out of hole, too. If you have a mild 350, I think a 200-R4 would be a great choice.
#26
Current MPG is better than most of us see. Enjoy as-is or get a beater econobox as a daily driver for cheaper than improving what you have now. Maybe even a miata if secure in your manhood and want something fun to drive.
http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/3193303686.html
http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/3193303686.html
#27
#28
That's about what I get with my 72. I think a Q-jet will get better fuel mileage than a 2 bbl if you drive conservatively because the primaries on a 4 are smaller than on a 2. A lot of the 2 bbl also had higher rear gears than the 4 bbl, but mine is 4 bbl with 2.73, so how much do you gain with a 2.56?
I think the main reason newer cars get better mileage is electronics, lower weight (plastic) and more efficient transmissions and gearing. I've thought about transmission changes too, but how many miles of driving more efficiently do you have to do to pay for the cost of changing transmission and or rear gears? Maybe if and when I need a transmission rebuild it would make sense.
I think the main reason newer cars get better mileage is electronics, lower weight (plastic) and more efficient transmissions and gearing. I've thought about transmission changes too, but how many miles of driving more efficiently do you have to do to pay for the cost of changing transmission and or rear gears? Maybe if and when I need a transmission rebuild it would make sense.
#29
I agree with the others. It sounds like you've got the 350 tuned as well as you can and good job, too! Besides driving like there is an egg under your foot, the next step would be overdrive. With a 200-4R or 700-R4, you will get better acceleration of out of hole, too. If you have a mild 350, I think a 200-R4 would be a great choice.
#30
Current MPG is better than most of us see. Enjoy as-is or get a beater econobox as a daily driver for cheaper than improving what you have now. Maybe even a miata if secure in your manhood and want something fun to drive.
http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/3193303686.html
http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/3193303686.html
#31
No, you will need an adapter. I'd go for the 200-4R. It usually not as strong in stock form as the 700, but can be upgraded. It is a bolt-in and should have the BOP bolt pattern. The driveshaft will also fit. I beleive you will need to move your crossmember down the frame to the th400 position. The holes should already be in the frame and can easily be drilled if not. Lots have done the swap. Search the forums and see what you can find.
#32
I had a friend of a friend's aquaintence, that said his brother's 3rd cousin, twice removed, who passed on that his father told him that his grandads ol 72 got better than that.
My car gets 7-8 mpg average, going uphill, downhill, headwind, tailwind, etc.. Feel Better!
My car gets 7-8 mpg average, going uphill, downhill, headwind, tailwind, etc.. Feel Better!
Plastic weighs less, but the copper doesn't God bless those computers for helping the older cars keep up by mere weight savings lol!
Last edited by ah64pilot; August 19th, 2012 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Finger fudged the weight...AGAIN! I did it in another post too!
#33
i am assuming you are not hot roding this car much? a good stock 200 4R will hold up for easy every day driving. all 200 4R transmissions have the dual bellhousing so no adapter plate needed. the 700 R4 will have to have the adapter plate. there was never a 700 R4 with the BOP bellhousing. if you plan to play, you will have to have the 200 4R beefed up to hold up.
#34
i am assuming you are not hot roding this car much? a good stock 200 4R will hold up for easy every day driving. all 200 4R transmissions have the dual bellhousing so no adapter plate needed. the 700 R4 will have to have the adapter plate. there was never a 700 R4 with the BOP bellhousing. if you plan to play, you will have to have the 200 4R beefed up to hold up.
#35
i am assuming you are not hot roding this car much? a good stock 200 4R will hold up for easy every day driving. all 200 4R transmissions have the dual bellhousing so no adapter plate needed. the 700 R4 will have to have the adapter plate. there was never a 700 R4 with the BOP bellhousing. if you plan to play, you will have to have the 200 4R beefed up to hold up.
I also agree a 4bbl is better than a large 2 bbl.
#36
#37
the diesel truck guys make fun of my 8.1 gas truck. i get 14 MPG and they get 18-19. they paid $4000 more at least for there truck and .50 to $1.00 more for fuel. what i am getting at is that captjim is right. if you have to pay much to increase your mileage, you are just shooting yourself in the foot.
if you don't drive this car much, it will be best to go as you are now.
Last edited by jensenracing77; August 16th, 2012 at 04:23 PM.
#38
#40
I already have the tranny and the torque converter sitting in my garage. All I would have to but is a adapter plate, and maybe shorten the drive shaft.