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What torque wrenches are you all using? I am looking at a Tekton 24335 for its overall good review, but I'd like to see what you all are using to compare notes! Thanks!
Check out Husky wrenches from Home Depot. They are not digital, but the are the "click type" and supposed to be within 4% accurate. Most others claim 6%. H2DTWA and H3DTWA I think are the Home Depot numbers. .
I have an old, all metal, US-made Craftsman 1/2" and it works great. Unfortunately, the only way to get one today is used. I've also got a 3/8 drive inch-lb unit and a 3 foot long, 3/4 drive Proto that I got for $80. I use the latter on balancer bolts and my tractor.
I bought both 3/8 and a 1/2 " click style torque wrenches from Lowes a couple years ago for my son. I checked them with a electronic read out torque checker from Harbor Freight and they were right on the money.
Another point to consider..... readability when setting the torque wrench. If they are hard to see, you won't like it when try setting it in lower light situations in the garage/shop.
1/2" quality click type. Funny enough, i have like 5 times cheaper beam-type 1/2" torque wrench, and i actually prefer beam-type more than click-type. And it shows about same.
I have a 1/2" that probably none of you have ever heard of. It is a Hazet which is made in Germany. It is very high quality. Back in 1984 the grandson of the owner of the company spent six weeks with us. His grandfather's company was a supplier to one of our back customers and it was an accommodation to them since our son was near the same age. He was an extremely nice kid and gave me the torque wrench as a gift. I also have a craftsman 3/8" that I bought used from somebody on this board. Both are breakaway. Here is a link to the Hazet site.
I have two points when it comes to torque wrenches:
1) Never buy the type like the cheap Harbor Freight with the adjustment lock on the bottom of the handle for frequent use. That adjustment screw always locks up and just slows you down. I do use those in 1/4 and 3/8 because I very seldom need those sizes.
2) Use a digital strain calibration gauge regardless of the torque wrench when doing something critical. They're super cheap now and super accurate. This is also important because the method in which you use a torque wrench, especially clickers, affects the actual torque applied to the fastener. So the gauge lets you practice on a bench vise.
Beyond that, to me, brand/style/cost/whatever don't particularly matter. Any wrench that stays together will operate predictably right after setting with a gauge.
Bonus point: Beam is required for super delicate jobs, like setting pinion preload, but can be a real bear when talking about >80ftlbs.
.have an old Craftsman click type 1/2 inch drive. The only bolts I ever torque are rotating assy, head bolts, and lug nuts (aluminum wheels). The others I get good and tight.
I have two points when it comes to torque wrenches:
1) Never buy the type like the cheap Harbor Freight with the adjustment lock on the bottom of the handle for frequent use. That adjustment screw always locks up and just slows you down. I do use those in 1/4 and 3/8 because I very seldom need those sizes.
2) Use a digital strain calibration gauge regardless of the torque wrench when doing something critical. They're super cheap now and super accurate. This is also important because the method in which you use a torque wrench, especially clickers, affects the actual torque applied to the fastener. So the gauge lets you practice on a bench vise.
Beyond that, to me, brand/style/cost/whatever don't particularly matter. Any wrench that stays together will operate predictably right after setting with a gauge.
Bonus point: Beam is required for super delicate jobs, like setting pinion preload, but can be a real bear when talking about >80ftlbs.
Thanks Oddball! Can you give me a good example of a "digital strain calibration gauge" please?
Bonus point: Beam is required for super delicate jobs, like setting pinion preload, but can be a real bear when talking about >80ftlbs.
I have a beam style KD Tools inch-pound torque wrench for pinion preload use. I also use it for torquing the valve cover bolts - I never did that before buying the wrench, but now I use it all the time.
Sadly, I'm finding that the wrench isn't what's causing the "readability" problem...
I know about that "readability" problem, I have it also. I have also had to use torque wrenches that were not marked well. I have been in situations under huge machinery with two sizes of bolts to torque where climbing up and out to see markings on a torque wrench was what is humorously called "inconvenient".
Originally Posted by oddball
I have two points when it comes to torque wrenches:
1) Never buy the type like the cheap Harbor Freight with the adjustment lock on the bottom of the handle for frequent use. That adjustment screw always locks up and just slows you down. I do use those in 1/4 and 3/8 because I very seldom need those sizes. OH YES, they frequently screw up. No matter what brand they are. This is a big deal.
2) Use a digital strain calibration gauge regardless of the torque wrench when doing something critical. They're super cheap now and super accurate. This is also important because the method in which you use a torque wrench, especially clickers, affects the actual torque applied to the fastener. So the gauge lets you practice on a bench vise.
Beyond that, to me, brand/style/cost/whatever don't particularly matter. Any wrench that stays together will operate predictably right after setting with a gauge.
Bonus point: Beam is required for super delicate jobs, like setting pinion preload, but can be a real bear when talking about >80ftlbs.
You might be right. I need to get a very low IN/LB torque wrench the set the clutch springs, Zener diode and other parts on old British motorcycles. You just can't get proper clutch release, trust me, I am done trying to count turns from contact.
Originally Posted by 1968CutlassSupreme
Thanks everyone! Feel free to keep posting - I learn something in every post!
You have the wisdom of some very smart and experienced people on here.
Bryon, the best torque wrench is useless unless proper torqueing procedures are followed. Lots of Youtube info and Google search. The factory used motor oil as a lube but other lubes can change the torque requirements. Dial beams were considered the most accurate. My local machine shop used a Snap On electronic that chirps when torque is reached. Torque wrenches should be calibrated periodically to ensure accuracy. Good luck, video shows factory assembly using machine which torques all head bolts at once.
I use a variety of Snap on and Proto "click" wrenches at my work, and they are very easy to use, they are also very expensive and do occasionally have accuracy issues when sent in for annual calibration. However years ago one of my friends had "upgraded" his torque wrenches and was trying to sell a couple of beam type 1/2" Craftsman wrenches at a swap meet and they did not sell. Thinking that they were worthless, he gave them to me and I took them into work to check the accuracy, they were dead on accurate. Many times newer technology applied to tools is a beautiful thing but comes at the cost of higher pricing and a more complex system with more points of failure and a higher probability of problems. I kind of feel like I "hit the jackpot" with these wrenches because aside from the fact of being gratis, they are so simple that it is unlikely that I'll ever need to replace or repair them.
We have certainly had an education on torque wrenches. I was thinking of the first engine I ever built which was a 265 SBC when I was in high school in 1963. I probably didn't even know what a torque wrench was and it stayed together.
I've got both a 3/8" and a 1/2" Snap-On clicker types that came with two full tool boxes at a garage sale. Clickers always disengaged before they get wiped down and re-boxed. I also have an old-school Craftsman beam type.
Sadly, I'm finding that the wrench isn't what's causing the "readability" problem...
I have 5 Snap On torque wrenches. 3 click types (1/4, 2 - 3/8), and 2 digitals (3/8, 1/2). Both digitals lights up, vibrates and makes a long beeping sound when it gets to that torque setting. No more readability problems unless you're blind, deaf or have no feelings in your hands.
I have a number of beam style including J H Williams, Plomb, Craftsman, S K Wayne, some others. I have been meaning to find one by P A Sturtevant, once in a famous name in precision fastener assembly. Also a Snap-On clicker which I have used for non-critical head bolt work. One thing in a discussion about the type to use, the clicker style in my opinion does not give you a good sense of when the fastener is starting to stretch, a much better feel for this with beam style wrenches. I think actually miking rod bolts for stretch along with or perhaps instead of torquing to spec, as is commonly done in race engine preparation today, started with Rolls-Royce. Even SPS bolts which pass magnaflux can really stretch in the threads and still get close to the torque spec.
And then this:
Bureau Of Aeronautics, Apco Mossberg Co. Attleboro Mass U.S.A. - HC-5 USN SN-6.
I have 5 Snap On torque wrenches. 3 click types (1/4, 2 - 3/8), and 2 digitals (3/8, 1/2). Both digitals lights up, vibrates and makes a long beeping sound when it gets to that torque setting. No more readability problems unless you're blind, deaf or have no feelings in your hands.
Does it give you a cigarette and thank you for the good time....Tedd
Snap-On 1/2 inch clicker and Craftsman 3/8 inch clicker for my home tools. Bought them back when I was twisting wrenches for a living. Always set them to zero when through with them. Always use the shortest extension and always support the pivot for the most accurate and repeatable torque. Harbor Freight 1/4 inch clicker for work used mainly for torquing battery posts. It's close enough...
