Hey All,
I have a stock 350 Rocket in my 70' Supreme and need to check the timing. The problem is the front of the engine is caked with old oil, dirt and grime. I've cleaned it as much as I can but there are no timing marks, indicators, etc. What's the best method for me to check the timing? Not something I have much experience in doing so any Kindergarten step by step directions, with or without crayon, would be awesome!

 

Put the number 1 cylinder at tdc on the compression stroke. Try to clean the timing tab with a wire brush 0 will be towards dr. side of the tab and it goes up to 12 to 14 degrees on the opposite end. Wire brush the balancer and tru to find the slit that runs across the balancer . Bumping up the timing on a stock engine to about 10 to 12 will help it out . At tdc on the compression stroke your timing marks should line up. So the cut in the balancer will be pointingthe timing marks approximatley. Also use paint marker to mark zero and the cut on the balancer then mark up to how far you want to sadvance it if thats what you want to do. I usually mark zero and use timing tape.

 

Thxs coppercutlass, awesome tips. Only problem is I seem to missing the tab and I don't see any bolt holes/rivets, etc. where it once could have been so I'm shooting blind.

 

Yeah, essentially, either you've got a timing tab, but you can't see it under the crud, in which case you need to clean off the crud, OR you don't have a timing tab (Heaven knows why), and you will need to get one.

A photo or two might be helpful in showing us where the tab isn't.

- Eric

 

Look right under the water pump you can see the timing tab and the line on the balancer hope this helps.

 

Additionally make sure your points, condenser, cap, rotor, and advance weights & springs in the distributor are all in top working order before dialing in your timing. Dont skimp on the points & cond. Purchase the Corvette spec points and high quality cap & rotor.
Make sure all of your engine grounds are clean and tight.

 

The rubbing block on the 'vette points may wear faster than the stock points because of the stronger spring.
Not a problem, but you may have to adjust them more often.

Regular points are fine if you're keeping it below 4,500-5,000 RPM, but I agree - buy good ones:
Original NOS Delco in sealed boxes or Blue Streak.

- Eric

 

Just replaced my harmonic balancer with one that has the timing marks.

I've cut my cheap-a** plastic tab to only show the zero indicator. It's mounted under the water pump on the timing chain cover, behind the power steering bracket (which is removed in the pic).

IMG_20130428_175457_328_zps555429fb.jpg

Your stock balancer will only have one mark on it for zero and the tab is degreed.

This is pic of a repop one on ebay.

Blnu5BGkKGrHqEH-CUEtfHUMSQQBLcYq0sdng_1_zpsada10b91.jpg

Hope this helps

Happy Timing!

 

You guys rock! This forum has helped me each time I have a question so many thanks. I was able to find it covered under about an inch of sludge that I think NASA might be interested in.

KDV, I like the setup with the new balancer. Was it something a hobby mechanic could do? More importantly, can I do it without removing the engine as I simply don't have the room or the tools to do so.

 

You may consider running the local car wash wand over your engine if there's that much crud. With the engine not running.

"KDV, I like the setup with the new balancer. Was it something a hobby mechanic could do? More importantly, can I do it without removing the engine"
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That is something you could do with the engine in place. Radiator out of the way would be good. It's kind of involved but not too bad. You would need a bolt type puller, and an installer suitable for the 3/4 fine thread found in the crank snout.

You can probably rent/ borrow these necessary tools at your local chain auto parts store:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-CAMS-49...9929de&vxp=mtr


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerbuilt-H...a6aa7a&vxp=mtr

 

No, you can leave the engine right were it is.

You do have to remove the fan, shroud, belts and pulleys.

If you're really careful - removing the radiator is optional. I taped some old box cardboard to mine so I didn't ding it all to hell.

You'll need a harmonic balancer puller to remove the balancer and possibly a balancer install tool for reinstallation.

The hardest part is removing and reinstalling the 3/4 bolt that holds the ballancer on. It's torqued to 160 ft lbs. An impact wrench would be best, but a big breaker bar and a torque wrench will work.

 

A cool trick I learned working on my grandad's Lincoln is that you can feed some nylon rope into one of the cylinders and use a breaker bar to take the bolt off of the crank snout. The nylon rope fed into the cylinder will push against the head and prevent the engine from turning when you try to take bolt off. Just make sure you use a cylinder that is at TDC of the compression stroke so you aren't mashing the rope up against valves that are trying to open.