76olds

You guys have never steered me wrong so I would like to ask your opinions.
My buddy that has done the rear as well as installed headers etc is suggesting going with edelbrock heads in replace of the #8's I currently have, run and electric fuel pump ( not in the tank but somewhere inline I believe if I understood him properly) and install new pistons and bump the cam up. He mentioned that I wouldn't have to bore the block to do this. Is this possible ? He is a chevy guy all the way but can this be done with an olds motor ? My 350 was refreshed about 8000 miles ago. What do you guys think.
Thanks Eric

cutlassefi

Depends on what was done in the rebuild.
I'd do the Procomps, they have a bit smaller intake port entry than the Edelbrocks, better with a small block. But you'll need to cut them to achieve a decent compression ratio but a win-win in the end imo.

coppercutlass

you could put a set of 7A and older heads to bump up the compression if it has the stock style pistons then a mild cam and edelbrock intake that alone will make a diffrence. If you go full rebuild yes there is options for pistons and heads now too., to an extent the limiting factor is what are you looking to achieve. It can snowball fast. You have a big car you could just build a 455 and that would really get you moving down the road. Im big on the small blocks but my car is light if you have a fully loaded car bbo is the ticket to be honest.

76olds

The refresh included a new t/c, stock cam, heads were done (Valves) and it appears to be about a .05 head gasket just eyeballing it, I could try to measure it with a caliper to get closer to the actual number if needed, one new connecting rod (bent). Other than that I'm not sure. Currently set up with the edlk performer, edlk 600 1 inch spacer, Curved distributer with accel coil/ module, Shorty headman ceramic , 2 1/4 mandrel bent stainless with flowmaster super 44. Powermaster 9610, aluminum water pump, 3:42 posi rear.
@ Cutlassefi...... would the heads you mentioned.... would this be something you could hook me up with precut ready to install? Along with pistons and cam... or other suggestions?
@Copper, I decided to hang onto the LBO and work with what I have I just want a mild build for now nothing insane like the (455 BBO) maybe later down the road. I'm all in with the current motor for now. Plus my wife lost 10lbs last week and the kids don't want to go out with us anymore so the car is less loaded now Put-r-ther!!! If I can get anuff torque to put-er- in the back seat again ( Pffft Wife ) then it could be money well spent ya know. I'd like the aluminum heads to get some weight off that mild monster.
Thanks guys .

cutlassefi

Yes. Once you confirm your ultimate goal and budget let me know. Thanks!

wcourt3010

Hey 76olds, give Steve the Cutlass Guy in Hamilton a call, he has all kinds of heads in stock. I bought a pair of decent 7a's off him for $200. Spent another $200 getting them cleaned up and mild port and polish at Mississauga Engines and i like what i got. I put my #8's on lawnjiji and some scrapper picked them up within half an hour.

PM me if you want Steve's number. He buys and strips cutlass' down and has racks of parts.

76olds

@ Cutlassefi, haven't a budget nailed down really, as to my goals I'd just like to lighten the motor some with the aluminum heads also give it a touch more cam. Pistons well I don't really want to bore the block if I don't have to. I like to do the job in a weekend or two. So heads, cam and straight swap pistons would be great. If you can give me a ball park $$$ that would be great .
@wcourt3010, I have seen his ad on Kijiji several times and yes he has a lot of olds parts I would like aluminum heads just for the weight factor for now. Thanks for the info.

DoubleV

Question for the engine builders; How much performance is a stock to slieghtly above stock 350 going to get with a set of Edelbrock/Procomp heads vs mildly done small block factory heads?

I was always under the impression that replacing your small block heads with big block heads ( factory or Edelbrock/Procomp ) will hurt your low end performance because they would just kill the flow velocity. Flows more air up top yes, but costs you down low.

cutlassefi

Not true. Check out Kitfoxdaves' chart on head flow. His messaged 7a's flowed in the 50's at .100 lift. All the aluminums flowed around 70 at the same lift. I'd say low lift flow/velocity isn't a concern.
Too much internet crap.

76Olds- I'd contact Bernard Mondello or Smitty and just have him surface the heads before they're shipped. I'm not set up to buy the Procomps competitively yet, soon, but not yet.
When you get that done we'll move forward on the cam.

oldzzy

76Olds, you don't have your private messages enabled. I would like to shoot ya a pm.

Smitty275

I second going with the ProComp heads. You can get them cut to the chamber cc you want and assembled with all American made hardware for $1575 & shipping. If you want to really wake this head up with minor porting its $1995 & shipping.

For all those who are worried about velocity and low lift flow numbers....you really need to get over it. I have yet, in 30yrs of porting cylinder heads, increased port size and flow across the board on any head and had a poorer running engine. The air can only go through the port as fast as the amount of valve opening will allow. Though slightly exaggerated ; If it flowed 50cfm @ .100 originally and it flowed 75cfm @.100 after porting the air speed is not going to be slower. The only thing to really slow the air speed down is the throttle opening.

Smitty275

It would be helpful to know what was dine last time around on the engine in question. For one thing you need to know what piston is in it and what the piston to deck height is. If it only has 8000 miles on it and was bored with new pistons last time it should be good to go with a top end package and can change.
I would also get the new intake from whomever you get the heads from. That way you know for sure the right amount will be cut from the intake flanges so it will all bolt up right on your engine.
Also, knowing what your deck height is may allow use of a thinner head gasket and less cutting on the heads to get your desired CR.
Since your going to heads with 7/16 studs your going to have to buy full roller rockers. Besides at this point to do otherwise would be foolish. I believe I can supply the ProComp rockers with the heads for about $140 extra. Buy it all together and I might make an even better deal for being a CO member.

DoubleV

If that was directed at me I can assure you I have nothing to get over. I just asked for validity of information I have been told was true by various other engine builders. I was not preaching to anybody that it was fact.

With that being said, what would the performance of say a stock smogger mid 70's 350 with #8 heads have if you replaced those heads with say stock early ( non J ) big block heads?

Smitty275

It wasn't aimed at anyone in particular. But the "velocity" ruse is so often repeated that it seems to have become gospel and really hurts efforts to help someone make their car run better when 90% of a phone call or email correspondence is for nothing other than dispelling myths.

Can a port be too big? Yes. But on factory GM pieces like our Olds its hard to do because they were built to run in a very narrow rpm range topping out about 3500rpm. The ports are sized so as to be not much good after that.

Put a set of J heads cut to have the same cc chambers as the head its replacing on a bone stock 350 and it'll run better.

76olds

Thanks for the replies guys, I really don't know what the deck height currently is nor what or if the heads were resurfaced, I would like to keep the edelbrock performer on it and not have to swap it out. I suppose I need to figure out what was done prior to the motor after refresh before you guys can give me an idea as to what I can do. Is there anyway I can check this out using thickness gauges without taking anything apart? Or get something close to the number. What does a refresh normally include for the 3K I paid could you engine guys give me an idea?
Thanks Eric

jag1886

If you know who did the engine work talk to them, most good shoppes keep records of what they did on engine rebuilds. Otherwise you are going to have to do a teardown to find what what you have. With out the facts you are just spinning your wheels and will end up real expensive boat anchor.

76olds

I actually just spoke with him on the phone, I'm not sure if anyone knows him but its ( Randy Smith engines in Stayner ontario). He doesn't recall if he put new pistons in the block but he said that he woudn't have decked the block, he also used felpro gaskets. He also mentioned he used a stock cam, unsure which one as their are so many different types. It was a cash deal so no paperwork was in order. I took the car to him because I bent a connecting rod and he advertised in the old car trader magazine which I often purchased, He mentioned I would have to pull the head to see what number is on the piston to know for sure if he put new ones in . He can't recall if he bored the block. Anyway this is all I know if you guys could give me some ideas thats great. I have gone as far as I can without tearing this motor down and checking things out. If the experienced builders can't help me with the info and a start point or price point on my wants given this information I have then thats ok I will just take it to an engine builder up here in Canada.
At least the rear is done and the tranny is good to go along with all the suspension work so its just the motor I need to take care of . I dumped 3k for the refresh +++ afterwards so another 3 I could live with if possible. Any more thoughts guys???
Thanks again guys.
Eric

76olds

I will pull a plug and have a looksee at the piston, I left the car at our trailer so i will do this on the weekend.