stuck head?

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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:21 PM
  #1  
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stuck head?

trying to get the heads off the block, seems to be pretty stuck.. its a 350 the manifold was hard to get off as well but i just want to make sure theres no tricks im not aware of to get this thing off!
Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:29 PM
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samething as the intake try a small pry bar but make sure you can catch it because it can fall. Ask me how i know.
Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
samething as the intake try a small pry bar but make sure you can catch it because it can fall. Ask me how i know.
I dont even want to know.. haha but thank you for your replys man.. were learning over here, i figured it was just stuck on there from age but didnt want to end up screwing something up!
Old Jun 3, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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long story short it fell on my foot thank god i had work boots on because even then it bruised the top of my foot.
Old Jun 3, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
long story short it fell on my foot thank god i had work boots on because even then it bruised the top of my foot.

dammm
Old Jun 3, 2012 | 02:34 PM
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Next time, screw in a couple of head bolts just a few turns and then pop it off with a pry bar.
Old Jun 3, 2012 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 805cut
trying to get the heads off the block, seems to be pretty stuck.. its a 350 the manifold was hard to get off as well but i just want to make sure theres no tricks im not aware of to get this thing off!
Make sure you get all 10 bolts. You might have only got the ones by the valve springs - there's also 5 down by the spark plugs.
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 12:24 AM
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Okay guys, i went a little deeper into the unknown and pulled the heads only to have coolant flood my garage as soon as i cracked the seal.. I know thats not right but what would cause this? blown head gasket? I turned the motor on and all 8 pistons move as they should. let me know what your thinking

thanks guys
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 12:46 AM
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Did you drain all the coolant before pulling the manifold off? If not, there's your answer.

Not really an issue if the engine isn't running, just be sure to change the oil BEFORE running the engine
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 03:29 AM
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Yeah, the coolant in the heads has to go somewhere if you pull them off without draining the motor.

- Eric
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 10:56 AM
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I'm sorry, I can't help myself. THAT's just funny! I know it's not funny for you 805. Kinda thought you knew about the water jackets though....
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Point and laugh all you want brother i can take it lol

no the motor was prob not fully drained, so im assumeing this is not a blown head gasket then?

sorry guys im learning here!
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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One of the reasons I pull the lower hose off the radiator to drain - big drain pan lessens mess, too!
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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I am one of those that believe that you learn by doing!
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by White Spyder
I am one of those that believe that you learn by doing!

agree, ive been doing just that!
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:52 PM
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its down to the block now, im not really trying to fix this 350 at the moment. Im just trying to find out whats wrong with it because i plan to rebuild it in the future.

I didnt see any thing that looked broken, lifters, valves/springs.. Cranked the motor and all pistons are working.is there anything els i should do or check?

the car had been knocking slightly for 2 days prior to this, then that knock turned into what sounded like the whole engine falling apart LOUD clanks that were in rythme with the motor and obviously got worse with any amount of gas.

I have a 455 block that i might as well start having built no sense in rebuilding a 350 whe i got a 455 in the same garage.. I look at the 350 taking a poop as gods way of saying "go faster" but id like to know what the hell happened to this thing!

thanks everyone
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rickman48
One of the reasons I pull the lower hose off the radiator to drain - big drain pan lessens mess, too!
That still leaves the cylinders with green juice.

You guys are aware that the block has a drain plug on each side, right? 9/16 wrench size, 1/4 NPT thread. Usually tight as hell, and blocked underneath with 30 yrs of crud.

Use a screwdriver to poke a hole in the crud after removing the plug- use impact if need be, and SIX POINT DRIVE TOOL in any event. Have drain can handy/ ready.

PS I have lots of nice pretty new drain plugs. Inquire at 517.449.04 three two.

Use a bit of sealer and tighten just hand snug to install.
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 805cut
I didnt see any thing that looked broken, lifters, valves/springs.. Cranked the motor and all pistons are working.is there anything els i should do or check?

the car had been knocking slightly for 2 days prior to this, then that knock turned into what sounded like the whole engine falling apart LOUD clanks that were in rythme with the motor and obviously got worse with any amount of gas.
Sounds like you need to take a look at the bottom end.

- Eric
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Sounds like you need to take a look at the bottom end.- Eric
That's what I was thinking at the start. More likely a connecting rod issue and/or spun bearings. Since the motor is this far apart, it just makes sense to pull it and check it out.

805? No, I won't laugh. I started tearing down a 455 last year and had all kinds of trouble. Problem was it wasn't a running engine. Turned out to have 2 monster cracks in the coolant jacket by the #7 cylinder. Turned into a boat anchor. But, like you I learn a lot as I go.

I'm at the stage where the compression in my 350 makes it a strong candidate for rebuild.
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 805cut
Okay guys, i went a little deeper into the unknown and pulled the heads only to have coolant flood my garage as soon as i cracked the seal..
Oops...

Originally Posted by Octania
That still leaves the cylinders with green juice.

You guys are aware that the block has a drain plug on each side, right? 9/16 wrench size, 1/4 NPT thread. Usually tight as hell, and blocked underneath with 30 yrs of crud.

Use a screwdriver to poke a hole in the crud after removing the plug- use impact if need be, and SIX POINT DRIVE TOOL in any event. Have drain can handy/ ready.
Yep, this is what you forgot... Pulling the radiator hoses is not enough due to the height of the water pump in and out holes. It has happened to other members recently - easy to overlook.
Old Jun 4, 2012 | 11:51 PM
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waiting on pulling the block.. but think i might just rebuild this 350 depending on whats wrong with it! get my wheels back faster then doing a whole 455 from a bare block..
Old Jun 5, 2012 | 09:04 AM
  #22  
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Ok heres a simple (caveman) way to check for a loose rod bearing if you got the heads off... turn the crank until the piston in the cylinder you want to check is headed back down into the hole. Now take a hammer handle and hit teh top of the piston.. if the bearing is bad, you should hear a pronounced "clunk" when the extra clearance from the loose bearing allows the rod to slam against the crank. If it's really bad, you will also see or feel the piston move. If that happens, stick a fork in it, it's done!
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