Small block stroker kit
#41
I am still a ways off (at least a year) from being in a position to even begin seriously considering having an engine built, so take my comments for what they are worth (not much). However, for my goals I would think the 3.875" stroke would be fine when it comes time....
Mark, I know you listed prices for the kits, how do they compare to the cost of having a 330 or 350 crank offset ground (for a 374 stroker) and acquiring the various other parts included in your kits; the bearings, pistons and rings, and the rods?
Also, are these cranks drilled for a pilot bearing for a manual transmission?
Mark, I know you listed prices for the kits, how do they compare to the cost of having a 330 or 350 crank offset ground (for a 374 stroker) and acquiring the various other parts included in your kits; the bearings, pistons and rings, and the rods?
Also, are these cranks drilled for a pilot bearing for a manual transmission?
#44
#47
I think Dave is trying to tell you that it would be easier and a lot more economical to swap in a 350. It looks the same from the outside and those 13/19 cubic inches won't make it worth the extra cost.
#48
I am still a ways off (at least a year) from being in a position to even begin seriously considering having an engine built, so take my comments for what they are worth (not much). However, for my goals I would think the 3.875" stroke would be fine when it comes time....
Mark, I know you listed prices for the kits, how do they compare to the cost of having a 330 or 350 crank offset ground (for a 374 stroker) and acquiring the various other parts included in your kits; the bearings, pistons and rings, and the rods?
Also, are these cranks drilled for a pilot bearing for a manual transmission? Yes
Mark, I know you listed prices for the kits, how do they compare to the cost of having a 330 or 350 crank offset ground (for a 374 stroker) and acquiring the various other parts included in your kits; the bearings, pistons and rings, and the rods?
Also, are these cranks drilled for a pilot bearing for a manual transmission? Yes
However that's apples to oranges. This crank is head and shoulders above anything else out there short of a billet.
Plus you can't get the same cubes with the 330 combo, not even close. And as everyone knows, there's no substitute for cubic inches.
And I wouldn't do it in a 307 mainly because of the windowed blocks. I'm sure that's what Dave was referring to.
#49
If my math is right though a .030 over 330 with a 4 inch stroke almost makes a 396. 395.7 to be exact. That could be fun but still probably more economical to go with a 403. Most of us probably won't benefit from all of the go-faster goodies that Mark comes up with unless you are building a serious street/strip or strip only car. It is fun to think about though.
#51
Could you maybe give a parts list required for the average guy that can have his own crank ground offset and then apply your parts?
Crank dimensions
rods
pistons
rings
bearings
roller cam/flat tappet cam
intake
carb
That kinda stuff. A complete package that a guy can order the parts and install, or have his engine shop order from you and assemble a long block.
#52
Cost would be about another $1200-$1500 over a "stroker" 330 crank combination.
However that's apples to oranges. This crank is head and shoulders above anything else out there short of a billet.
Plus you can't get the same cubes with the 330 combo, not even close. And as everyone knows, there's no substitute for cubic inches.
And I wouldn't do it in a 307 mainly because of the windowed blocks. I'm sure that's what Dave was referring to.
However that's apples to oranges. This crank is head and shoulders above anything else out there short of a billet.
Plus you can't get the same cubes with the 330 combo, not even close. And as everyone knows, there's no substitute for cubic inches.
And I wouldn't do it in a 307 mainly because of the windowed blocks. I'm sure that's what Dave was referring to.
While I haven't settled on anything yet, I am starting to lean toward something along those lines.
#53
If someone has an 80's Hurst/Olds or 442 this makes big cubes easy in a stock looking package. Of that still leaves 5A and 7A heads to deal with.
#54
where to use
A stroker small block is a great alternative for the 1979 HO & 1980 442 owners as well as any of the 307 powered G body cars. Also entirely applicable for the 1973-1977 Colonnade owners who's cars are far more likely to have come with a 350 than a 455.
#55
A lot of guys are still racing and driving G body’s, and while you can put a big block in one, it’s a bit of a hassle.
I’ve ordered the next batch of cranks, all 4.00” stroke. It seems most want the most c.i. possible. Plus I may be able to arrange a deal on a competitively priced piston from Mahle, we’ll see.
#56
Ah, but what you guys are missing is that, in some places, changing your block to one that didn't come as factory means you now loose that grandfathered status where emissions are concerned. Ontario being one. I'd love to drop a nice 455 into my '81 CC, but since that wasn't an engine that came in this car that year, if I get pulled for inspection driving up the 401, I'm screwed. And I've heard reports of that happening. Granted, those were dropping in obviously new LS engines, but with my luck, I'd get that one guy who knows Olds engines. I don't see anyone making a 455 pull off new emissions spec
#59
Okay, Here we go, I'm in!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-350-a-2.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-350-a-2.html
#60
Okay, Here we go, I'm in!
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-350-a-2.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-350-a-2.html
Last edited by cjsdad; January 23rd, 2018 at 09:41 AM.
#61
#62
#63
Awesome news. I have been looking at piston options for the engine I am piecing together. Are you having to do them in batches of 5 sets like the other pistons you are having made? If you would can you send me a email(oldsfromyell@gmail.com) or message on here with information and ordering details on the pistons you are getting made for the 4" stroke combinations. Thanks
#64
Awesome news. I have been looking at piston options for the engine I am piecing together. Are you having to do them in batches of 5 sets like the other pistons you are having made? If you would can you send me a email(oldsfromyell@gmail.com) or message on here with information and ordering details on the pistons you are getting made for the 4" stroke combinations. Thanks
#66
My next build
Sorry that I am late to the discussion, I just found this topic on FB.
I just built a stout 355 so, pushing 415 hp in my 87 442. But hold on, it is not enough, so
I am preparing to build a DX block this fall.
These crank kits your selling will they work in a DX Build or just the gas sbo.
I would like to make some good torque over the HP numbers after all torque gets ya moving.
plan on running a true 10.5 to 1 like the 68 olds ran.
am following and very interested in purchasing a kit.
I just built a stout 355 so, pushing 415 hp in my 87 442. But hold on, it is not enough, so
I am preparing to build a DX block this fall.
These crank kits your selling will they work in a DX Build or just the gas sbo.
I would like to make some good torque over the HP numbers after all torque gets ya moving.
plan on running a true 10.5 to 1 like the 68 olds ran.
am following and very interested in purchasing a kit.
#67
Was the 355 dynoed? That is a very strong 350, what are the specs? You will need spacers for the crank, they have been proven for big power in DX blocks. Also the 4 bolt cap conversion is a piece of mind and get a 4340 crank if you really plan on boosting it or big nitrous. Mark won't steer you wrong.
#68
Sorry that I am late to the discussion, I just found this topic on FB.
I just built a stout 355 so, pushing 415 hp in my 87 442. But hold on, it is not enough, so
I am preparing to build a DX block this fall.
These crank kits your selling will they work in a DX Build or just the gas sbo.
I would like to make some good torque over the HP numbers after all torque gets ya moving.
plan on running a true 10.5 to 1 like the 68 olds ran.
am following and very interested in purchasing a kit.
I just built a stout 355 so, pushing 415 hp in my 87 442. But hold on, it is not enough, so
I am preparing to build a DX block this fall.
These crank kits your selling will they work in a DX Build or just the gas sbo.
I would like to make some good torque over the HP numbers after all torque gets ya moving.
plan on running a true 10.5 to 1 like the 68 olds ran.
am following and very interested in purchasing a kit.
And in case I didn’t mention it before, these cranks aren’t forged, they’re 5140 billet.
#69
355 sbo
Was the 355 dynoed? That is a very strong 350, what are the specs? You will need spacers for the crank, they have been proven for big power in DX blocks. Also the 4 bolt cap conversion is a piece of mind and get a 4340 crank if you really plan on boosting it or big nitrous. Mark won't steer you wrong.
I wanted a dx build but there was just no time to do it and enjoy the car for the summer so i went with a 350 olds true 10.5 to 1 swapped the #5 heads for a pair of pro comp heads, went with a hydraulic cam, not roller, sharp rockers dont have cam card in front of me but something like 325 339 525 545 I believe were the numbers for the cam. with a Holley sniper fire efi sitting on a Edelbrock 7111 I take. It is in my 87 442. The motor runs great but I still want my 350 DX stroker. I am enjoying this build this summer but this fall I will build my dx motor and let my son have the current motor for his 75 cutlass supreme.
Last edited by 87442efi; April 28th, 2018 at 07:45 PM. Reason: Did not finish my answers
#70
yes it was dynoed. I had Felice Perf. Build the motor.
I wanted a dx build but there was just no time to do it and enjoy the car for the summer so i went with a 350 olds true 10.5 to 1 swapped the #5 heads for a pair of pro comp heads, went with a hydraulic cam, not roller, sharp rockers dont have cam card in front of me but something like 325 339 525 545 I believe were the numbers for the cam. with a Holley sniper fire efi sitting on a Edelbrock 7111 I take. It is in my 87 442. The motor runs great but I still want my 350 DX stroker. I am enjoying this build this summer but this fall I will build my dx motor and let my son have the current motor for his 75 cutlass supreme.
I wanted a dx build but there was just no time to do it and enjoy the car for the summer so i went with a 350 olds true 10.5 to 1 swapped the #5 heads for a pair of pro comp heads, went with a hydraulic cam, not roller, sharp rockers dont have cam card in front of me but something like 325 339 525 545 I believe were the numbers for the cam. with a Holley sniper fire efi sitting on a Edelbrock 7111 I take. It is in my 87 442. The motor runs great but I still want my 350 DX stroker. I am enjoying this build this summer but this fall I will build my dx motor and let my son have the current motor for his 75 cutlass supreme.
thank you.
#72
This crank will take upwards of 1000hp so you’ll have to gauge your other requirements from there.
And those are most likely cam vs valve lift numbers, not duration. Doesn’t tell us much.
And those are most likely cam vs valve lift numbers, not duration. Doesn’t tell us much.
#73
Interesting on the 5140 billet. I know there are advantages and maybe draw backs vs a forging. Unless you have a boosted DX or Nascar block, these cranks truly won't see anywhere close to fatigue strength, which is awesome. I know the 330 crank has been quoted to survive up to maybe 800 hp if mostly crack free but they are 50 year old forgings and can't be stroked to 4" and weigh more.
#74
#75
After endless internet searches for my Olds 350 block that has been sitting for 5 years, I've finally found it's calling. Although, it will take a bit of time, I can't wait to join you guys in building a stroker Olds. Can't wait to see all of your builds
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