Babafats

Hey guys thanks to the help of some and especially oldscutlass we have been able to determinethat I need to replace 2 rockers and a bridge. I have checked the bottom of the lifters and there Is no wear I went ahead and replaced all of them anyway. They are all primed and pumping well. My question is if I'm going to replace two rockers and a bridge should j just go ahead and replace all the driverside rockers and bridges? And if so does anyone know of a good kit with all that I need to so that. Lemme know thanks guys and gals!



Hopefully Wishfully With A 55gallon drum of luck the noise will go away haha.

-Babafats 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe Hardtop.

oldcutlass

It's a tough call, it's not necessary to change them all, however others may start to go over time. I posted a some parts and sent you a pm for those parts. Napa also sells them maybe a different brand but they are still available.



http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...t+-+rocker+arm

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...856_0194631938

cjsdad

On a small block chevy engine with an adjustable valve train, the written procedure I have always read is to tighten the rocker pivot down to first contact then 3/4 turn more. I have found that 1/4 turn seems to work best although I am by no means an expert! Since the Olds engine uses similar lifters you can tighten the rocker pivots slowly and if they contact the pushrods and valve stems around 1/4 turn of being tightened they are probably Ok. If less, they are either worn or need longer pushrods. Since you have replaced the head gaskets they should all be very close to the same. The extra .020 inch taller gaskets will increase the head height in relation to the camshaft. Worn rockers, pivots, and lifters can all add up to not enough contact between lifters and rockers. If they are all too loose a new set of pushrods is probably needed. If it is only one or two, you can try swapping a pivot to see if that will fix it. If it does, that means you would only need a new pivot and rocker set. Lots of checking is the only way to know for sure. Just make sure you put all the rockers, pushrods, and pivots back to where they came from to keep the wear patterns together on the parts.

J-(Chicago)

Here you go babafats..... the whole kit. Toss them in and torque the bolts to 25 lb ft.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1242-16/overview/

J-(Chicago)

I'd Throw all that old junk in the garbage can. As I said in Babafats' very first post....those aluminum bridges are junk.

Start fresh with decent stuff, and go enjoy the car. These newer ones are steel and not pot metal. Much better product.

Babafats

Appreciate the info guys I think this episode in my resto is coming to an end by the way first time in 10 years Thibodaux has had snow and ice for winter

Babafats

It's a big help to have this forum as locally this is more of a camaro/mustang/Chevy town lots of 68 RS my lots of old timers and there F1's and caddys. Hahaha

BILL DEMMER

replace them all, do the other side too! put some assembly lube on all of the wear points during assembly. don't forget the end of the push rod and the valve stem tip.


bill

Babafats

Parts will be in 7am going to swap the two rockers and bridge trying to save up for a whole set sometime this week. Will let you guys know how it goes.f

Babafats

Ok guys got the parts in the process of putting them on pray to the Oldsmobile gods for me lol.

Babafats

Dude I'm so bummed out as I'm tightening down the bolt for the rocker with the torque wrench the torque wrench malfunctioned and snapped the bolt in half so now my protect just got 5x as hard and is gonna be really hard to find a replacement bolt the wrench worked fine for all the other bolts but for some reason this one kept tightening down with no response from the wrench.

oldcutlass

OMG! It happens, and at least it not terribly bad to get to. That's what makes this hobby interesting. To make you feel better, I've got a wiped out lobe on my cam that I found today.

Octania

don't despair
I have literally 100's of extras
If you can't buy a grade 8 flange bolt at your local fastenal store or whatnot just shoot me postage a bit for gas and paypal and I will mail you care pkg. Could go out as early as Monday. You could also use a farm store/ hardware store grade 8 the right length w/o the flange.

for fast service text or call
517 44nine oh 43 two

MDchanic

That sucks, Eric. Sorry to hear it.

As for the busted rocker bolt, it should be no problem to remove with an extractor, and maybe even with a centerpunch and a hammer. It's not likely to be tight in the hole. Once you get it moving, it should just unscrew.

- Eric

Babafats

Where i live there are several hardware stores most closed on sunday but do you think Lowes would carry it.

dude no way on the cam lobe thats a real bummer

i appreciate the offer on those bolts i will gladly send compensation for the care package if i cant find them locally

my heart dropped when i heard it ping

Whats the best way to get it out? not much is above flush. also any ideas on why it kept tightening down the other ones worked fine with the torque wrench.

you guys are awesome theres never a problem a group like this so positive cant solve.

thanks for the cheer up i feel better all ready.

oldcutlass

If there is enough to grab on to with a visegrips, I'd try that.

Babafats

hey guys gonna drop a new thread for my next project gonna be doing it solo so as many tips as i can get will help. gonna be in suspesion

Babafats

So tommorow gonna attempt to remove broken bolt put the new rockers and bridge on, get em all greased up. any ideas on how to tighten these down without a torque wrench because for some reason the wrench isnt working on the number 5 cylinder i guess it was just a fluke will give it a safer attempt tommorow thanks for everything guys

oldcutlass

Since they just bottom out, I just tighten like a regular bolt. Not to the point of really cranking down, if you know what I mean.