Rebuild kit?!
#1
Rebuild kit?!
Is there a rebuild kit for a Olds 307?
I know, I know. Forget rebuilding a 307 and get a 350. Buuuuut I just got my trans rebuilt so that would be a waste of money if I go and get a 350, I would then need a trans swap.
Anyways I want to keep the 307 and try to keep my car as original as possible. Thanks!
I know, I know. Forget rebuilding a 307 and get a 350. Buuuuut I just got my trans rebuilt so that would be a waste of money if I go and get a 350, I would then need a trans swap.
Anyways I want to keep the 307 and try to keep my car as original as possible. Thanks!
#2
Going to an Olds 350 will not require a transmission change. Before you buy a kit, tear the engine down and see what the internals look like. If the engine needs to be bored or the crank needs to be turned your kit will have a lot of useless parts and you'll need to buy oversized to compensate.
#3
Before he does that he might want to study a bit more about the interchange within olds and what not. i think they actually made forged flat tops for the 307. I wanna say one of my olds sources had them. They made em for guys running in the stock eliminators from what he told me.
Also never buy a rebuild kit. You will end up with some parts of lesser quality and useless parts. Pick good quality parts . The kits are cheap but so are some of the parts included.
Also never buy a rebuild kit. You will end up with some parts of lesser quality and useless parts. Pick good quality parts . The kits are cheap but so are some of the parts included.
#4
Before he does that he might want to study a bit more about the interchange within olds and what not. i think they actually made forged flat tops for the 307. I wanna say one of my olds sources had them. They made em for guys running in the stock eliminators from what he told me.
Also never buy a rebuild kit. You will end up with some parts of lesser quality and useless parts. Pick good quality parts . The kits are cheap but so are some of the parts included.
Also never buy a rebuild kit. You will end up with some parts of lesser quality and useless parts. Pick good quality parts . The kits are cheap but so are some of the parts included.
Last edited by Copper Nine Eight; June 6th, 2016 at 05:25 PM.
#5
Going to an Olds 350 will not require a transmission change. Before you buy a kit, tear the engine down and see what the internals look like. If the engine needs to be bored or the crank needs to be turned your kit will have a lot of useless parts and you'll need to buy oversized to compensate.
Last edited by Copper Nine Eight; June 6th, 2016 at 05:26 PM.
#7
C
I currently have a better than stock 350 in front of a mild built 2004R. Was the rebuild bone stock? A good shift and servo and a good aftermarket cooler should be good. A deep pan or even just overfilling the trans a quart is good if you plan on hard launches. There are still a surprising number of good running mid 70's Olds 350's out there. They were only a small improvement at 165 hp/275 tq from 73-80 but have much more build potential, especially 76 and older.
#8
#9
I currently have a better than stock 350 in front of a mild built 2004R. Was the rebuild bone stock? A good shift and servo and a good aftermarket cooler should be good. A deep pan or even just overfilling the trans a quart is good if you plan on hard launches. There are still a surprising number of good running mid 70's Olds 350's out there. They were only a small improvement at 165 hp/275 tq from 73-80 but have much more build potential, especially 76 and older.
Last edited by Copper Nine Eight; June 6th, 2016 at 08:07 PM.
#10
I like Northern Auto parts for engine kits. You can talk to them on the phone and get higher grade/brand parts in the kits if available.
You still need to do tear down first for measurements and see what you need.
You still need to do tear down first for measurements and see what you need.
#11
I picked up a used 76 350 for $120 off Kijji. It had 140-142 compression all 8 cylinders, 20 psi hot at idle in gear and 45-50 psi cruising at 1850 rpm with 5w30 oil. They are nearly give away prices around here unlike the 455.
#12
Guess I have some looking to do.. I don't even know where to start to look for a 350. I would like to do a swap before the summer is over!
#13
The nice thing about small blocks is everyone gives up and goes to a big block so parts are cheap and lightly used. I built my small block for about half of what it would cost someone to have a shop build . It started as a 355 that failed on the previous owner/builder but it had forged flat top pistons and the price was right to salvage it.
#14
Look for mid 70's Olds Cutlass, almost guaranteed to have an Olds 350. I picked up a 76 2 door for $50 off my old boss. Nice interior, sold for 3 times the price of the car, good Olds 350 with similar compression and oil pressure above, just needed head gaskets due to really brown coolant. They were the best built and most durable 350 of the 70's by far in my books. Good part about a mid 70's 350, flat top pistons will give 9 to 1 compression with a reasonable head mill and the bowls under the exhaust valve need the lip removed. Add a 2" or 2.07" intake valve and a better cam, it will be a massive gain over stock. What year 307 do you have? If it is 85 or newer it will be a huge dissapointment even built to Vin 9 specs.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; June 8th, 2016 at 05:55 AM.
#15
Look for mid 70's Olds Cutlass, almost guaranteed to have an Olds 350. I picked up a 76 2 door for $50 off my old boss. Nice interior, sold for 3 times the price of the car, good Olds 350 with similar compression and oil pressure above, just needed head gaskets due to really brown coolant. They were the best built and most durable 350 of the 70's by far in my books. Good part about a mid 70's 350, flat top pistons will give 9 to 1 compression with a reasonable head mill and the bowls under the exhaust valve need the lip removed. Add a 2" or 2.07" intake valve and a better cam, it will be a massive gain over stock. What year 307 do you have? If it is 85 or newer it will be a huge dissapointment even built to Vin 9 specs.
#16
x2 to Christian. I'm running a spirited 350 in front of a 200-4r (Aside from the shift kit, the transmission is stock).
#17
#18
Your motor is the dreaded swirl port 307, the only thing worse for performance is the Olds 260, I own one of them. Imagine your motor with a 2 bbl and 47 less cubic inches:eek. Actually with dual exhaust it isn't terrible and mileage is decent and the little bugger doesn't leak or use any oil. Speaking of that, add true dual exhaust if you can and upgrade to 3.73 gears or at least 3.42 gears. Those two things alone will be a massive upgrade will feel like adding 100 hp. You will only run 1850 rpm at 60 mph with the stock tires using 3.42 gears. I say 2.25" pipes are plenty big and Dynomax Super Turbo or Summit Turbo mufflers, both are very mild.
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