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i have done carb conversion, perfom those things :
- replaced the efi carb by edelbrock 1400 carburetor
- replaced original intake manifold by edelbrock 3711 intake
- replaced original distributor by a distributor for 76 cutlass
- replaced electrical fuel pump by mechanical fuel pump
i have install everything today, set TDC... engine cranks but not start. fuel come from tank to carb carefully
- Set TDC with timing mark ner the damper pulley, look the spark plug hole of #1 cylinder if piston is high position
- look the top connectors place on distributor cap, on the down of distributor, mark the position of a connector.
- remove the distributor cap
- install the distributor on the engine. turn it unil the distributor pointer points the mark
- replace distributor cap
- install all spark plug cables according to the firing order.
Have you tested for spark at the plugs while cranking? Have you set timing while cranking? Are you sure the distributor was set to #1 cylinder on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke? Do you have power at the BATT terminal on the distributor?
You have changed a whole bunch of things at once, so the cause of not starting could be almost anything.
- Set TDC with timing mark ner the damper pulley, look the spark plug hole of #1 cylinder if piston is high position
- look the top connectors place on distributor cap, on the down of distributor, mark the position of a connector.
- remove the distributor cap
- install the distributor on the engine. turn it unil the distributor pointer points the mark
- replace distributor cap
- install all spark plug cables according to the firing order.
Sorry for my english
Best regards from france.
I can't tell for certain from your description above if you have the distributor installed correctly.
This statement has me a bit confused as to what you actually did:
- install the distributor on the engine. turn it unil the distributor pointer points the mark
You need to be certain that when you slide the distributor into the block that the rotor ends up pointing to the #1 position. You can't turn anything after the distributor is in place.
Also be aware the the #1 piston will be at TDC on both the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke. You may have the distributor installed 180° out of phase.
Last edited by Fun71; April 9th, 2017 at 03:12 PM.
yes i turn the distributor before fully plugged in hole. it's impossible to do when distributor is fully plugged. Spark plugs works well and 12volts comes to the distributor.
i have checked rotor position. rotor is on the mark when #1 cylinder is on TDC compression ( both lifters are at down position ). i have turned the engine with dynamometric key and cranking, rotor return at mark when #1 is on TDC.
however, i will re-check rotor pos and will do a compression test.
i have buy this no-run car 800$ ( nice price in france where classic US cars are expensive ) engine didn't work, it's my first restoration and classic car ( i have worked only on modern cars like chrysler 300 or french cars )
again sorry for my clumsy english. Ce qui se conçoit bien s'énonce clairement, et les mots pour le dire arrivent aisément.
Last edited by crazymathlefou; April 9th, 2017 at 03:39 PM.
If you have fuel at the carb and spark at the plugs then the only thing it can be is your timing is off. If you have a timing light. Have an assistant crank the engine and adjust the timing to around 16 degrees BTDC. It should start then.
I understand that it is hard to communicate in a different language. I would not be able to write to you in French.
Therefore, we may be miscommunicating, BUT, you said,
Originally Posted by crazymathlefou
i have checked rotor position. rotor is on the mark when #1 cylinder is on TDC compression ( both lifters are at down position ).
Any cylinder, when at TDC, should have its valves closed, with no tension on the rockers, and the rockers loose, or up, and not down.
You may have the car on TDC #6, or 180° out of position.
I understand that it is hard to communicate in a different language. I would not be able to write to you in French.
Therefore, we may be miscommunicating, BUT, you said,
Any cylinder, when at TDC, should have its valves closed, with no tension on the rockers, and the rockers loose, or up, and not down.
You may have the car on TDC #6, or 180° out of position.
- Eric
I think he stated it correctly- both LIFTERS would be down when on the compression stroke. He did not mention the ROCKER ARMS but could well be what he intended to say......
I want to explain : camshaft didn't push intake or exhaust lifter at my TDC time on #1
Yes it have smell of gas, i have changed value of enrichement screw on the carb, fuel comes in a big quantity but engine didn't start...
i have performed a test with a low-price compression test on #1 and #2 cylinders, compression test needle steps at 0psi. it's a low price compression test, without hexagonal fitting for thithening. Maybe there is no compression on engine or compression test didn't work.
tomorrow i will reconfigure distributor rotor with 16° Beforce TDC.
Maybe i have performed a messy work, maybe the engine have a big problem...
best regards from france ( salut à toi Professeur !! Super ce forum !! )
We only ask about the smell of gasoline because if there was none, it might mean that you had a fuel supply problem.
I would recommend removing and cleaning all spark plugs (with lacquer thinner or a similar solvent) and giving the starter motor a good spin with the spark plugs out, to clear out the cylinders.
While doing this, you can hold your finger over one of the spark plug holes - when the engine is cranked, it should be impossible for your finger to hold the pressure inside the cylinder.
Next, I would connect each spark plug wire to a spark plug, wrap a ground wire around all of the spark plugs together, to protect the ignition system, attach the timing light probe to the #1 wire, and crank the engine while you check, and adjust, the timing.
Once you have confirmed that the ignition timing is close to where you want it, replace the spark plugs, reconnect the wires, spray a good shot of ether into the carburetor (if you have any), and see if she'll start.
- i have checked al spark plugs, works
- i have performed a recalibration of distributor with several values of BTDC, nothing except two or three explosition cycles thats runs... during 1 time.
for the timing, i don't have this.
best regards from france.
Last edited by crazymathlefou; April 11th, 2017 at 01:56 PM.
I'm not familiar with Edelbrock carbs, but there should be a choke butterfly (a spring loaded temp controlled flapper) that closes when cold to allow a richer fuel mix on cold starts. It should open a crack on cranking, then open slowly as the engine warms up.
If it's always closed tight or always fully open it won't start.
i have done a compression test on cylinders #1 and #2, there is no compression at all
No compression?
Will not push air out of spark plug hole past your finger?
Will not shoot a paper towel out of spark plug hole?
Does not register anything on gauge of pressure tester?
Does the pressure tester screw into the spark plug hole all the way and seal?
Is the pressure tester line clear all the way to the gauge?
Is the pressure release valve on the pressure tester stuck open?
Could you post a photo of the gauge and another photo of the gauge connected to the engine?
No pressure at all would be very unusual, but if that is the case, it will change our thoughts on what the problem is.
I just googled a picture of your carb. I'm afraid I don't know how that thing works. I don't even see a vacuum pulloff or primary butterfly. I've had good luck with Rochester carbs but I don't know what to tell you about that one, sorry.
i crank the engine with the key, i can't touch the hole, i will find somebody that will do it.
With the work you are doing, you might benefit from connecting a wire and button switch from the battery (+) terminal to the S terminal on the starter solenoid, so that you can crank the engien yourself.
Originally Posted by crazymathlefou
i have tested a paper, it go out.
So you do have some sort of compression.
Why did you think that you did not have compression?
If you have to write in French in order to explain properly, it's okay. My French is not very good, but I will figure it out if I have to, and others here are better French speakers.
I am at work now, and cannot stop to look at the video or write for very long, but I will respond if nobody else responds before me (that may be at 01:00 or 02:00 your time).
That picture of your spark plug gap looks awfully wide. What is it set to? In your video I see fuel spitting out of the carburetor when you crank it. Are your sure your spark plug wires are in the correct firing order? Move the distributor clockwise 1/8 turn.
That picture of your spark plug gap looks awfully wide. What is it set to? In your video I see fuel spitting out of the carburetor when you crank it. Are your sure your spark plug wires are in the correct firing order? Move the distributor clockwise 1/8 turn.
That's basically what his friends on the French car forum said.
I haven't seen the video yet, but I'll look when I can.
As Eric says, the most common and easiest way is with an air impact wrench (is that what you meant by "dynamometric"?) like this:
If you cannot get one, then you will have problems with the engine turning.
The easiest way to do this is to use a long breaker bar (like 60cm or longer)
with a 29mm socket (28mm may fit), seated firmly on the head of the bolt, with a piece of metal pipe over the handle of the breaker bar.
Place the car over concrete or hard pavement and rest the end of the breaker bar or pipe on the ground on the left hand side of the car (so that it is pointing to 4:00 when you stand in front of the car and look), then just use the starter for a fraction of a second and the bolt should loosen itself.
Just needs a new timing set. The plastic coated sprockets usually go out at 60-100k miles. Really did not factor that in to your issue assuming it had been changed already.
April 9th, 2017, 12:18 PM
with a 29mm socket (28mm may fit), seated firmly on the head of the bolt, with a piece of metal pipe over the handle of the breaker bar.
