I recently installed a mechanical oil pressure and water pressure gage after having a few issues with temperature and idol issues. I discovered at idol around 1000 rpm that the oil pressure is only 2 to 3 lbs. I know this is low is there any advice on what could fix this issue? I live in Arizona yesterday the temperature was about 106 degrees my water temp was around 200 to 220 with the ac running is this a normal temperature or is this too hot? I replaced the radiator, thermostat, and a new water pump. The engine sounds normal and no knocks or other obvious leaks sounds coming from engine. I was recommended running Valvoline VR1 racing oil 50w with high zinc. I was told this could increase pressure any suggestions?

 

Are the gauges mechanical or electrical?
Does the car have a radiator shroud?
Did you replace the fan clutch along with all those other parts, and if not, check it to ensure it's working properly?

When the engine was registering 200-220 what were the driving conditions? My engine will go up to 220 on the highway (at 3400RPM) with the AC on in 110º temperatures, but if I slow down to under 2800 RPM the temp drops down to 190. Engine load has a LOT to do with coolant temperatures.

 

I was going about 45 on normal road and idling car as well when temperatures got to 200. It doesn't get over 220. I was just worried if that was too hot or due to AZ heat and A/C being on.The fan shrud is in place the only thing not replaced on car cooling system was fan.
all gauges are mechanical.

 

200 with the AC on in 106 degree heat seems reasonable. Wait a few months and see what temp it runs.

 

I would be more concerned with the low oil pressure than the slightly high coolant temps. What is the oil pressure at say 2000 rpm?

 

Is your oil pressure line plastic tubing or copper tubing ? Check the oil pressure line to make sure its not leaking.

 

More info please. Year model engine trans miles etc. Its a little tough to get accurate troubleshooting info if we have to guess.
2-3 psi! You should hear tons of lifter clatter. Dont run this engine until you figure out if that's a true reading. If it is this engine is on its last leg.

-Is the gauge true? Good USA quality or china junk?
-Does the idiot light illuminate?
-Does it have any oil in it?
-Puddle of oil under the car?
-Last oil change?

 

The year is 1971 olds cutlass 350 rocket engine with 98k miles. The oil was changed last in April, no oil leaks. The gauges are auto meter nylon tube these are brand new.the oil light doesn't come on at all when idol. I do notice around 40mph the gauges only shows around 20lbs highest It got to was 30 lbs and went back down to 20lbs after shifting into 3rd gear around 55 mph.the gaugers are mechanical. I was advised to do an oil change with 50w oil to see if that helps.

 

Adding 50 weight oil is a band aid fix, however I'd check with a known good gauge first. As has been said 2-3 psi at idle indicates a worn bottom end, if that's the case it won't be long before the engine makes expensive noises. 20psi at idle and 50-60psi above idle is what you should have. I'd pull the engine and examine the crankshaft bearings. It may be it just needs new bearings if the crankshaft is in good shape, but I'd budget for a crank grind, bearings and new oil pump, and replace the timing chain and sprockets while it's out. 98k miles means there will be some engine wear, how far you go with fixing it might well depend on your budget.

Roger.

 

I used GM engine flush on the 307 in my 81 Delta 88, had well over 300,000 km. In hot weather, the oil light flickered on at idle. I put on a known oil pressure gauge, the one at Ford dealer, I apprenticed at. It showed 7 psi at idle and 25 at cruise rpm. After the flush, it gained 5 psi all around and it stopped flickering and never did again till the timing chain skipped at 450,000 km. In your hot climate, using VR1 20W50 won't hurt and will help oil pressure.

 

The nylon timing gear chunks could be clogging the pick-up screen as well. I'd pull it, inspect, rebuild etc...But first verify the pressure readings are true with a second known good gauge.
15W40 is as high as I would go with oil weight.

 

That is normal when the factory oil sending unit is removed so that a gauge can be installed in its place. You no longer have a sending unit to activate the dash warning light.

 

What weight oil is in it now ?

 

Yes. Many of us run a T fitting to run the light and a gauge. I am running a braided line to an Equss oil pressure gauge and the others side of the T has a sensor for the Holley EFI.

 

Consider this;
Water boils at 212 degrees.
Water mixed with antifreeze 50/50 will boil at 223 degrees.
That same mixture when confined by a 15 PSI radiator cap will boil at 268 degrees.
I wouldn't worry until the temp gauge reads above 260 degrees.

 

Thank you all for great advice and feedback I truly appreciate it as I only had the car for a few month and trying to navigate all the small and large issues arising since the purchase of the car.

 

Gage could be off, not unheard of, gages can be off 5-10%, try another gage, just get a reg pressure gage and screw into port and check.
My 2 compression testers read almost 15psi different, both are quality gages from the 80s-90s with little use.
as stated earlier get a T fitting and run both gage and sender, my 455 with 136k oil light goes out while cranking.