Swoopy

Changed the timing chain and installed a used performer intake.

Have a thread in electrical with my saga.

Intake is off and cleaning to reinstall and went to pull dizzy and it is stuck.

I just had it out two months ago and it came out with no resistance.

It has been run maybe 20 minutes to fill rad and set timing and than to diagnose a vacuum leak.

What the heck, Murphy!

Why would it pull out easy and now be stuck after a 1/4 inch lift. The rotor turns both ways by crank and I have tried to turn crank when pulling up.

It's stuck. Weird. The varnish, corrosion or dry rot O rings appear not the problem.

I find it hard to believe it is wedged after it ran for less than 20 minutes on several days in the garage. I never drove it. It did back fire and stumble due to carb and vac leak.

Is it really a wedged oil pump shaft? Rotor turns and when lifting it starts to turn then stops and I don't want to force by turning.

Only way is to beat it out? Light taps up by center?

Here I thought it would've a simple re-install.

Fun stuff.

oldcutlass

I would just use a thin piece of wood and hammer to tap it out. The O ring is probably hard.

2blu442

I'd soak it down with your favorite penetrating fluid. I like Kroil as the best, but $15 a can at my local dealer. The next choice for me is PB Blaster at $4 a can. Then take the wood and hammer to it!


John

Swoopy

Thanks Eric, will do.

Perplexed as to why it is stuck after it was out only two months prior and barely ran.

Listening intently, it sounds like it seals down in block by pump when I push back down the 1/4 inch.

Oh well , Murphy's law messing with my patience.

Going to be a late night as I want to go to Ocean City, MD Cruise tomorrow. Will rtv set up on intake to make 45 minute drive tomorrow afternoon after say 10 hours of cure?

Pb blaster good idea. Thanks John.

oldcutlass

It's probably just the O ring that's preventing you from removing the dist a little penetrant will help. Yes, the RTV should be cured enough to drive it. I always make a quick inspection of the front and the rear seal area prior to and after starting and warming it up.

Swoopy

Cool. Pb blaster than let it cure.

Better late than never, might take my time as to not mess up and drive down late Sat. Or do Sunday.

Thanks all.

Dave.

joe_padavano

Likely because now the oil pump drive shaft is stuck in the distributor gear and you are having to pull the pump shaft up while dragging the little retainer washer off the end of it. Don't be surprised if the shaft comes out with the distributor.

Swoopy

Thanks all.
I read your prior posts on stuck distributor, Joe. I was sure the oil pump drive shaft would be stuck to dizzy.

Soaked dizzy and tapped up and it came free without oil pump shaft!

Found out that the points ground wire was broken at the tack weld under breaker plate after we found that the vacuum advance did not work on my 71 dizzy.

We messed with swapping the vac can from 1970 dizzy to my 71 when we noticed the broken wire. Not sure if it broke prior to the symptoms noted in my Strange Alt. Thread or not.

Prior to swapping my intake this weekend and this 23 year old sitting on shelf 1970 dizzy, I had no idle and I'm assuming it was a vacuum leak, which was probably correct (See noted thread above).

Now that I think about it, when leaning over carb and listening, I heard a repetitive light sounding high pitch pop. I also heard this at the exhaust but subdued. Could this have been the culprit?

Having fun now. Re-installed the intake with turkey tray according to CSM and directions on CO with help from a friend. Double hands and eyes helps, especially when I was about to go heavy on RTV!

Did't even use a 1/16 of the tube!

It idled but was at 40 degrees advanced with 17 to 20 readings on vacuum gauge depending upon rpm.

Need to work on timing and set idle circuit.

I know I have two posts but both were very useful to me and wanted to answer each.

Thanks all. Went to the OC cruise and saw some really nice rides and more then a few olds!

Unfortunately I did't drive Swoopy.