at3regency

Changed out the timing set on my '65 330 and buttoned it back up. I am positive it's on correctly as I made absolutely sure I had the marks on the gears lined up. It sputters and comes close to running but won't.

Since this is the first time I've done this I'm wondering if the distributor needs to be rotated, is that common procedure? I don't have a timing light but would like to get it running at least. Haven't done anything yet as I'm afraid of making something worse.

Oldsmaniac

You need to check if the rotor is pointing to #1 spark plug terminal when #1 piston is TDC compression stroke. If your old chain broke or jumped time you will most likely need to set distributer to the correct position.

MDchanic

+1.

You removed the timing chain and installed a new one, but did you then re-set the ignition timing after you put it back together?

- Eric

joe_padavano

Did you pull the distributor or otherwise rotate the motor while changing the timing chain?

at3regency

Well got it to run but not well. It won't move under it's own power and shudders like crazy when I put it in gear and it stalls out. I didn't touch the distributor when changing out the chain. Tried rotating the distributor while running but it didn't solve the rough running issue. You really have to rev it to get it to run, not the one pump of the pedal and go it used to be.

In trying to start it before I changed out the chain I hope I didn't damage something internally by trying to run it with the timing incorrect. I also am hoping that somehow, despite triple checking, the gear is not off by a tooth.

pogo69

did you follow oldsmaniac instructions as above...assuring you are at top dead center of #1 cyl and the rotor is pointing at #1 ....sounds like your timing is off

you might be firing on #6 thinking your at #1

Octania

even if you wer off by "a tooth" it should still run. I have seen worn sets skip a tooth

Surely for peace of mind, you took a photo of the timing marks before putting cover back on, every phone has a camera now.

the first suspect is the old "180 off" trick but if you did not remove or rotate dist'r then it is tied to the cam, thus to the cylinder order. Now, perhaps your timing was set to work with a very worn or skipped timing set in which case when that was corrected it threw the spark timing off a bit.

You can fix it.

Start with the basics. Using your thumb to be SURE you are coming up on #1 COMPRESSION, bring her to TDC or 10 degrees before. Turn dist'r body CCW a ways, then CW [against rotor rotation] until the spark just happens- points open, teeth align, coil makes spark, whatever.

Look where the rotor is pointing.
That is your #1 wire
use it as-is or pull dist'r and relocate the rotor to your favorite #1 wire position.
put the wires on CCW in the firing order

Firing order and cylinder numbers are embossed in the intake manifold or consult the manual/ interwebs. I am sure an annotated photo is right here somewhere.

-IF- that still does not make it run right then you must be off by several teeth, like perhaps you have one of then multi-position crank sprockets and you used the wrong keyway for the mark...

THEN you gotta dismantle and do it right.
and take a photo
maybe a before and after, so that others may learn

MDchanic

Now hold on there, Abernathy.

Are you telling us that you haven't checked . re-set the ignition timing with a timing light?

- Eric