New Engine - how much should I tear it apart?
#1
New Engine - how much should I tear it apart?
Hey guys!
I finally broke down and bought a new engine. It came with Harland sharp roller rockers, studded #5 heads, and a Performer RPM intake. It is all together at the moment, how far do you think I should tear it down before I throw it in my Cutlass? I got a leakdown tester to see what kind of seals that they cylinders have and I plan on replacing the oil pan gasket while I have it out of the car. Any recommendations on stuff I should look for? It seems pretty solid so far, but I know very little about the engine or previous owner.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike
I finally broke down and bought a new engine. It came with Harland sharp roller rockers, studded #5 heads, and a Performer RPM intake. It is all together at the moment, how far do you think I should tear it down before I throw it in my Cutlass? I got a leakdown tester to see what kind of seals that they cylinders have and I plan on replacing the oil pan gasket while I have it out of the car. Any recommendations on stuff I should look for? It seems pretty solid so far, but I know very little about the engine or previous owner.
Any help would be appreciated.
Mike
#3
Any time an engine is getting cleaned up before installation I recommend a new oil pump/pickup, oil pan gasket, freeze plugs, rear seal, and some cleaning and paint. Basically all the things that are a nightmare to do once the engine is installed. Most engines don't need all that stuff but I'd hate to put an engine in and then find the seal is leaking or the pump is shot.
Wouldn't hurt to test fit all the bolts and nuts to make sure there aren't any crap threads. Latelly I've been running into alot of battery ground studs that've been so corroded that they're unusable. It'd be nice to handle that problem with the engine on a stand instead of in the car.
Wouldn't hurt to test fit all the bolts and nuts to make sure there aren't any crap threads. Latelly I've been running into alot of battery ground studs that've been so corroded that they're unusable. It'd be nice to handle that problem with the engine on a stand instead of in the car.
#4
Any time an engine is getting cleaned up before installation I recommend a new oil pump/pickup, oil pan gasket, freeze plugs, rear seal, and some cleaning and paint. Basically all the things that are a nightmare to do once the engine is installed. Most engines don't need all that stuff but I'd hate to put an engine in and then find the seal is leaking or the pump is shot.
Wouldn't hurt to test fit all the bolts and nuts to make sure there aren't any crap threads. Latelly I've been running into alot of battery ground studs that've been so corroded that they're unusable. It'd be nice to handle that problem with the engine on a stand instead of in the car.
Wouldn't hurt to test fit all the bolts and nuts to make sure there aren't any crap threads. Latelly I've been running into alot of battery ground studs that've been so corroded that they're unusable. It'd be nice to handle that problem with the engine on a stand instead of in the car.
#6
Nooooo,
Take it from someone who lucked out and pulled apart 2 junkers so far and got em running. If you aren't experienced in this type of thing I would simply do the leakdown test and if everything checks out ok with that then drop her in there and ride. An oil pump would be cheap insurance but if you are getting decent pressure that may not be necessary.
The reason I am not in favor of pulling it apart is that the more you mess with it, the greater chance there is that you'll mess something up putting it back together. I know the first Olds intake I did was more difficult than a Ford or Chevy. That damn valley pan will get you lol. Besides, if the leakdown test comes up ok why pull it all apart? You may want to check the bearings if you haven't heard the motor run though. On my 2 junker engines I brought back I heard both of them run before I broke them down and they were fine.
So I guess whether or not to tear it down depends on your personal needs. If this is a project car and you're trying to learn on it go ahead and follow everyone's recommendations. If this is like a daily driver or something you're trying to rush back together just get the leak down test and keep it moving.
My 2 cents
Take it from someone who lucked out and pulled apart 2 junkers so far and got em running. If you aren't experienced in this type of thing I would simply do the leakdown test and if everything checks out ok with that then drop her in there and ride. An oil pump would be cheap insurance but if you are getting decent pressure that may not be necessary.
The reason I am not in favor of pulling it apart is that the more you mess with it, the greater chance there is that you'll mess something up putting it back together. I know the first Olds intake I did was more difficult than a Ford or Chevy. That damn valley pan will get you lol. Besides, if the leakdown test comes up ok why pull it all apart? You may want to check the bearings if you haven't heard the motor run though. On my 2 junker engines I brought back I heard both of them run before I broke them down and they were fine.
So I guess whether or not to tear it down depends on your personal needs. If this is a project car and you're trying to learn on it go ahead and follow everyone's recommendations. If this is like a daily driver or something you're trying to rush back together just get the leak down test and keep it moving.
My 2 cents
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January 13th, 2014 10:04 AM