I have a 1971 Cutlass, 350 motor 2 barrel stock, 350 turbo trans rebuilt, 3:42 post, AC, and some day power breaks. Thinking of Edelbrock performer manifold, 650 carb and performer cam? Not sure if I should go to the RPM? Not sure about what to do with the heads? Any advise?

 

Did you introduce yourself in the Newbie Forum ?

 

Did they use a stock replacement torque converter? A 2000 stall will help launch, stock is 1600 rpm. Your 8 to 1 350 is limited because of the big dish pistons. The Performer cam is possible to use, if the motor is healthy. I used one in a 8 to 1 350 installed at 105 ICL. I had 140 to 142 cranking compression. It ran equal mid 15's with 3.42 gears in a 3750 Cutlass. The Performer intake is fine unless you plan on rebuilding the motor with more cam and compression. The RPM intake will work fine even on a stock 350 but allows more growth. Get the AVS2, if you insist on an Edelbrock carb. The Street Demon 625 cfm, Holley or a rebuilt Qjet are also options.

 

I am asking for thoughts on a motor build.
I have a 1971 Cutlass, 350 w/2barrel, AC, and at some point power breaks, 350 trans rebuilt, 10 bolt w/ 3:42 gears and posi. Looking at Edelbrock performer 2117 matching cam, 650 carb, HEI, not sure about head work? Or is there a better combo? Also thoughts on there RPM series? Mostly highway driving. Thank you all. It’s my first ever on a forum.

 

Didn't you ask almost the same question on your first post ? Did you read the replies ? Tell us a little about you.

 

I am very new to this and how it operates. Sorry if I messed up. I have owned a 1972 Olds 442 convertible and a 1971 W-30. Both of which are gone for all the normal reasons. I a trying again but can't afford a 442, so going with a regular Cutlass. Blue with pearl interior and white top. Want to this one with as little issues as possible.

 

Welcome to ClassicOldsmobile. Show us some pics of your car. A Cutlass is a fine car.

 

Sounds like you have a good start but I will let some of the engine experts speak up. Those #7 heads are good heads and can be massaged which is probably what I would do.

 

You can find your original post here: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-build-152986/ with quite a few responses. Forums work based on threaded (continuous) conversations so it's best to check your previous posts rather than starting a new discussion of the same topic.

Another thing to watch for is the date of responses when reading other threads. Sometimes you'll find a discussion that hasn't been posted to for a few years, and it's best to just let those ones be.

Welcome to the forum, looking forward to seeing photos and hearing of your build.

 

I merged the posts into this thread.

There are plenty of options to "spruce up" a 350, but if you could find a 455...

 

Wow why are you coming at him so hard?
Welcome someone. Don't beat them up. What's the point?


Welcome to Classic Oldsmobile. My opinion. Why not just build a new motor to drop in?

 

Cost is one thing. Motor has only 63,000 miles on it. But looking for some smile power when you hit the gas, but want reliably driving power. Trying to get peoples experience on what is realistic. Got quotes of almost 10,000 for rebuild her in the northeast.

 

I can get one but I would also have to replace trans and guessing my axel since its not a 12 bolt. I already have to much money in those items now.

 

A properly built TH350 and your 8.5" 10 bolt rear with bolt in axles are plenty strong. You may be able to use the CP or Mahle 4.065" hone to fit pistons to raise compression with only 63,000 miles.

 

Ten grand sounds like stupid money to me. Should be way cheaper to freshen up what you have. Wouldn't take much to wake that motor up.

 

PS: I took a cruise in my good friend's Mom Olds with a 403. Damn I was impressed by that car's torque etc. Not like he was pushing it but what a smooth torque filled motor. I had never been in a 403 car.

 

You have a good rearend with an excellent performance ratio of 3.42:1. Your engine has 8:1 compression ratio due to the large dish pistons. There’s not much you can do about the compression ratio without a piston change. My thought is change to a 4bbl intake manifold and carburetor and tune it well. A cam change to an “RV” grind with around 204 @ .050 would be the most I would recommend if you absolutely insist on a new cam.

No need to change from the factory points distributor to HEI unless you really, really want to as there is no performance difference with a well tuned points system. My original points distributor ran well to 5800 RPM and I saw no difference with an HEI distributor.

 

I agree on two points 1 you shouldn't punch someone in the stomach and then welcome them to the sight regardless of how they introduce themselves. 2. Totally agree 10k is way to much money for a spirited street motor. With the 3.42 gears it should already be pretty peppy.

 

Where in the Northeast are you? What do you want for horsepower and torque? Sadly, I'm not far off that 10K number with my 358 build but talking Canadian dollars. Talking about over charging and BS from two machine shops, SEFI conversion done to my RPM intake, internally balancing, fancy connecting rods, aftermarket oil pan, two cams including a very expensive roller cam setup. What are your goals? With a 63,000 mile car, you shouldn't need guide work on the heads, add W31 valves and get bowls opened with a cutter and the springs to match the cam choice. Positive valve seals are another nice option but not necessary. You might be able to just hone fit the pistons as I mentioned. That should also mean just a crank polish, hone factory rods for floating pins wihich Mahle and CP use, check big ends and definitely externally balance with lighter pistons. Internal balancing cost me a fortune. Add rod, main and maybe cam bearings, quality Cloyes billet timing set, new oil pump, pick up and cam and lifters of your choice. If you stay around .500" lift for the cam, you can reuse the factory non adjustable rocker arms. If you 0 deck with the Mahle or CP pistons, around .020", maybe slightly less and with .010" head cut should make up the difference of the factory .017" shim head gaskets vs the .038" to .045" available head gaskets in most gasket sets. With The Felpro blue are .042" compressed, the most common. Just get new rocker arms and bridges, they wear out, push rods can be reused. Also much more than something like the Performer cam needs more stall than your current torque converter to perform to its potential. To know the stall, floor it and watch rpm, see what the tach jumps to before it takes off.

 

I thank you all for your kind words and support. I will definitely look into some of your suggestions for guidance. I am an old lover and have been since I was a teenager when my mother had a 72 vista cruiser. Horsepower I know is a hard figure to theoretically come up with. Looking for something I can enjoy and when you put your foot in it can throw you in the seat and put a smile on your face. The car will not be raced pretty much driven to car shows, and cruise nights.