Motor had been purchased, few questions.
January 3rd, 2014 | 12:59 PM
#1
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Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 515
From: Wilmington, DE
Motor had been purchased, few questions.
Well first off big thanks to user bad68442 for helping me broker the deal for the Hurst's new power plant. Motor is out of a 1970 cutlass. Stamp reads "395558" with #6 heads. Motor has performer RPM intake, carter carb, HEI distrib, new water pump, new oil pan. A yank of the covers revealed ARP head bolts and what looks like newer springs to me. Fired right up and sounds like it may have a very mild cam. With the combo of head hardware, new oil pan, intake etc I'm going to take a stab that the motor has been rebuilt at some point. Freeze plugs look new as well.
Questions I have:
What's the best way to verify compression ratio? I know these 350s can be 8-10:1.
Will the new radiator I have with my 307 be enough for the 350?
Will I have to change a good deal of plumbing going from the Rochester to the Carter?
Thanks!
Questions I have:
What's the best way to verify compression ratio? I know these 350s can be 8-10:1.
Will the new radiator I have with my 307 be enough for the 350?
Will I have to change a good deal of plumbing going from the Rochester to the Carter?
Thanks!
Last edited by 1BOSS83; January 4th, 2014 at 09:29 AM.
January 4th, 2014 | 09:45 AM
#4
Administrator
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 41,167
From: Poteau, Ok
Well first off big thanks to user bad68442 for helping me broker the deal for the Hurst's new power plant. Motor is out of a 1970 cutlass. Stamp reads "395558" with #6 heads. Motor has performer RPM intake, carter carb, HEI distrib, new water pump, new oil pan. A yank of the covers revealed ARP head bolts and what looks like newer springs to me. Fired right up and sounds like it may have a very mild cam. With the combo of head hardware, new oil pan, intake etc I'm going to take a stab that the motor has been rebuilt at some point. Freeze plugs look new as well.
Sounds like someone spent some money on the internals.
Questions I have:
What's the best way to verify compression ratio? I know these 350s can be 8-10:1.
You can do a compression test and see how many #'s it has and get a rough idea. It would be easier to figure out if you knew what parts had been install, IE pistons, cam, if the heads were milled, what head gaskets, etc...
Will the new radiator I have with my 307 be enough for the 350?
I'm from the school of try it and see before spending money needlessly.
Will I have to change a good deal of plumbing going from the Rochester to the Carter?
It depends on the manifold first to make sure it will accept a spread bore carb. The rest of the change is just mechanics 101.
Thanks!
Sounds like someone spent some money on the internals.
Questions I have:
What's the best way to verify compression ratio? I know these 350s can be 8-10:1.
You can do a compression test and see how many #'s it has and get a rough idea. It would be easier to figure out if you knew what parts had been install, IE pistons, cam, if the heads were milled, what head gaskets, etc...
Will the new radiator I have with my 307 be enough for the 350?
I'm from the school of try it and see before spending money needlessly.
Will I have to change a good deal of plumbing going from the Rochester to the Carter?
It depends on the manifold first to make sure it will accept a spread bore carb. The rest of the change is just mechanics 101.
Thanks!
January 4th, 2014 | 09:59 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 515
From: Wilmington, DE
I'm going to stick with the Carb that is on the 350 (barring any set backs obviously). I'll have to do some research on doing a compression test but I feel its safe to assume it is much higher than my stock vin 9. I'm going to leave the water pump on and swap in my new ps pump/alt. I should've measured the fan blade on the 350 (it was outside and 8 degrees after the test start and valve cover pull I didn't want to hold the guy up much longer) because it has a VERY nice and new HD fan. I'm going to retain my hayden 2747 clutch. I need new headers and the flotechs on summit are a reasonable price and should bolt right up based on my research. needless to say I am extremly excited ha.!
January 4th, 2014 | 11:52 AM
#6
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,250
Compression ratio can only be determined by measuring all of the components. If the engine has been rebuilt, a cranking compression test can tell you if the cam and other parts are a decent match.
I had GREAT luck in a G-body with an F-body radiator. The old Modine number was 951, IIRC. Less than $100 new, aluminum, worked great and was almost a bolt-in.
Just my opinion, but always try and use parts designated for the vehicle, not the engine. You may run into a minor fitment issue with the pulleys. For the cost of a water pump and fuel pump, I would just replace both of them.
On the headers, cheap ones can be a nightmare. If you can, test fit them to make sure the holes line up before you bolt the engine in.
I had GREAT luck in a G-body with an F-body radiator. The old Modine number was 951, IIRC. Less than $100 new, aluminum, worked great and was almost a bolt-in.
Just my opinion, but always try and use parts designated for the vehicle, not the engine. You may run into a minor fitment issue with the pulleys. For the cost of a water pump and fuel pump, I would just replace both of them.
On the headers, cheap ones can be a nightmare. If you can, test fit them to make sure the holes line up before you bolt the engine in.
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