Minimum I need to run engine?

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Old September 4th, 2016, 10:38 AM
  #1  
Chris
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Minimum I need to run engine?

Hi Everyone! So I installed my 72 olds 350 but I did not install the trans yet. I wanted to get the engine running before I hooked up the trans in case I needed to pull the engine again. What is the minimum that I need to hook up to safely get the engine running and accurately identify any issues? Obviously I know I need to install the entire cooling system (without trans cooler lines hooked up). But how much electrical? And which vacuum lines? Brake booster??? what else? Thanks guys!
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Old September 4th, 2016, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldssupreme
Hi Everyone! So I installed my 72 olds 350 but I did not install the trans yet. I wanted to get the engine running before I hooked up the trans in case I needed to pull the engine again. What is the minimum that I need to hook up to safely get the engine running and accurately identify any issues? Obviously I know I need to install the entire cooling system (without trans cooler lines hooked up). But how much electrical? And which vacuum lines? Brake booster??? what else? Thanks guys!
You need power to the coil and power to the starter. You don't need any vacuum hoses, so long as any open ports are plugged.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 04:21 PM
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If this is a rebuilt engine it needs to go through the cam breakin procedure.
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Old September 4th, 2016, 05:28 PM
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Thanks Joe and Eric. It is not rebuilt- same cam. Maybe a dumb question, but can I start/run it without having the ignition switch hooked up and the throttle cable hooked up?
Thanks!
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Old September 5th, 2016, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Oldssupreme
... can I start/run it without having the ignition switch hooked up and the throttle cable hooked up?
Yes.

Needed to run:
  • Engine attached to something stable
    (motor mounts, and supported in the rear, if necessary)
  • Cable from battery (-) to block
  • Cable from battery (+) to starter
  • Wire from coil to battery (+) terminal
    (if going to run for a considerable period, run it through a Chryler ceramic ballast resistor)
  • Wire from solenoid S terminal to touch to battery (+) to crank engine
  • Fuel pump connected to a fuel source
  • Radiator connected to engine
  • Heater hoses connected or plugged
  • Cooling system filled with water
  • Open vacuum ports plugged

Needed to run and actually hear anything:
  • Exhaust pipes and mufflers connected

Good idea:
  • Connect mechanical oil pressure and temperature gauges

- Eric
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Old September 7th, 2016, 12:48 PM
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I would add to Eric's list:
Torque converter. (Or a flywheel).

Roger.
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Old September 7th, 2016, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rustyroger
I would add to Eric's list:
Torque converter. (Or a flywheel).
Not to disagree, but I'd clarify that to: Flywheel or flexplate
(a torque converter is not necessary, but you need the gear on the flexplate to crank the engine).

- Eric
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Old September 8th, 2016, 10:15 AM
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I figured the converter was effectively the required flywheel mass. Thinking about it, as a general rule, the more cylinders the less flywheel mass required for smooth running. Don't forget I'm from where 4 cylinders is normal.

Roger.
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Old September 8th, 2016, 10:57 AM
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I realize this is stupid BUT make sure there is oil in the engine.

I know someone somewhere forgot this.
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Old September 8th, 2016, 12:19 PM
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I got it, Roger. Yeah, the V8s really don't need a flywheel as such - they'll run just fine without one.
I know 4-cyls are in greater need of the inertia.

- Eric
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Old September 8th, 2016, 03:02 PM
  #11  
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The fly wheel or flex plate is really helpful to get the engine started. It gives the starter something to turn.... No need for a torque converter just to run the engine.
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Old September 9th, 2016, 05:30 AM
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If your hooking up the battery to the ignition and starter you MAW hook up the alternator so you don't drain your battery.
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