That carb is jetted as a performance carb , so it is going to run better at a lower coolant temp and an open element air cleaner. If your running a 195 stat , drop it to a 160 or 180 and if you have a stock style air cleaner (closed) either swap it out or flip the lid over at the least. Its just running fat at 200 + and you lose torgue also a big player is the exhaust heat riser crossover in the intake. If it is open it will build up heat and make it worse . Blocking it at the intake gasket makes for a better running around stronger runner at full coolant temp. Factory Q jets are lean and made for hot temps and restricted air flow but HP tunes and HP carbs are not calibrated the same.

 

Pull your plugs and see how they look. High temps do kill power, try a high flow 160 or 180 stat and maybe an acid flush with a stock copper rad.

 

Both my 1406 and my 1405(currently on car) had float out of adjustment, and I put them back into spec ±1/32" and I didn't really notice much change. I had problems if I corner quickly and punch it, of if I am stopped on a steep incline(facing up the hill tends to be worse than facing down, but not always). I've had a lot of trouble with Edelbrock carbs. But with my unknown engine setup, I'm hesitant to have the stock Q-Jet redone, because I don't want it to be wrong too.


What do you mean, flip the lid? Like take my standard aftermarket air cleaner top that says "edelbrock" and flip it upside down so the point is facing into the carb? What does that do?

I read a lot about blocking the exhaust crossover when I did my intake, but I decided against it. Too many people talked about having it come loose and rattle. With my luck that would have been me.

I hope all my questions are helping to OP too.

Cman, you still around? How you making out?

 

I didn't see your pic of the engine bay till after my post, I was referring to if you had a stock air cleaner. The edelbrock air cleaner is fine. Cut coolant operating temp first, as far as blocking the gasket, The Ultraseals come blocked. You will be much better off getting rid of that AFB style Edelbrock carb though. A stock rebuild of the factory carb and switch primary rods to 42-44 with 70-72 jet and secondary rods get smaller tips around .410" http://www.hioutput.com/tech/qjetrod.html

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1944/10002/-1


http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1951/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/405G/10002/-1

 

Hey JPC,

I'm still here, I haven't had a bunch of time on my hands to pull the car out since my last post. I'm taking all suggestions in though and will check on all of what was said once I have the time. Thanks for looking out.

 

Bummer. I ended up using one of the Felpro gaskets when I had to do the intake. I used one of the turkey tray gaskets thinking that it'd be better off keeping the oil from splashing up on the intake etc.

I'm thinking you're right about the E-Brock. I've tried everything at this point, and I just can't get it right.

I don't see the stock 7042250(stock carb for 72) on that sheet, any idea how much richer your recommendation is from stock?

The carb did come off a running car, but it needs to be glassbeaded and fully rebuilt, it looks pretty terrible. Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and have it sent out over the winter and done.

 

Nothing wrong with the turkey tray and using the exhaust crossover unless you only drive in very hot weather. How far is your motor from stock? If not far, even the stock calibration might be OK. Send it to Ken at Everyday Performance. He calibrated my core to my combo and even did bushing work for under $300 last year. He has an ultrasonic cleaner and can even replate it for extra. The AFB had fuel boiling issues when Chrysler used them for factory carbs. So many have issues with them. If people want a shiny aftermarket carb, go Street Demon or a Quick fuel carb. People love them and they both have features that blow away the Edelbrock carb.

 

Basically the stock size jet is possibly ok rather the uber lean rods is what needs changing. The list I sent was not to look up your carb number rather see all the secondary rods and the dimensions. Note you never want to be in the bottom of the list that is useless lean . If you have say 70 jets but the car as an open element air cleaner and dual exhaust you probably should bump up to 71 or 72 jets , primary rods in the 48-52 range are way to lean at part throttle. hence using a 42-44 rod instead.

 

How's it going Cman. Just thought i'd bump the thread and see if you've made any progress.

 

Hey jpc,

The car was garaged from November to just last weekend. We have freakishly warm weather this week. It's like 72 in February. I needed to charge the battery but after that she started up just fine. Took a 30 mile cruise and noticed the same issue. I wasn't expecting it to correct itself as i've done nothing to correct it yet.

 

One more reason to go to fuel injection..........

 

Thanks for the update. I'm beginning to think, mine is at least partially to do with the electric choke. If I start it, let it run, kick it off high idle, and I go WOT, I notice immediately the responsiveness dwindles. I don't know what to adjust or look at, but I only recently discovered this. It's almost like I need the choke circuit working all the time to get the 1406 edelbrock carb to be responsive. I may try splicing in a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to the hood, before replacing my fuel pump in the car. Which is at least 12 years old(i haven't done it, and I know the PO didn't). They bought it like 03 i think.