loose timing chain on olds 350
#1
loose timing chain on olds 350
Well i removed the fuel pump and was able to push the timing chain atleast half an inch towards the gears with my finger, Is this normal? I checked my old 307 and the chain feels about the same. Should i change the timing set? its a 1970 olds 350 2 bbl. Does the 350 have the same nylon cam gear like the 307 does? If so who sells a good cheap timing set without the nylon gears. Cheap being the main word here lol. Thanks for the help guys.
#2
#6
Wow thanks guys good info all around. Well better I replace the timing set now while the motors out of the car. I bet getting the vibration dampener to crank bolt out will be fun I read its like 230 ft. lbs of torque or something like that. I need a better torque wrench too i guess. Well i got some work to do.
#8
Well I did some shopping around today and came up with a couple good ones, wanted you guys to take a look and see what you think. I found these on summit racing.
comp cams ( it says it uses a link belt chain. Are those any good?)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-3213/
Cloyes timing set( It says its a double roller set, Was wondering do i need to modify anything to make it fit properly?)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-C-3006K/?rtype=10
And i found these 2 at rockauto.com
Clevite timing set-
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1100319
Sealed power timing set-
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=117898
Which one should i get? which would be the best for my 350? Which lasts longer? And whats the difference between a roller timing chain single or double vs. a link belt timing chain? Thanks in advance guys
comp cams ( it says it uses a link belt chain. Are those any good?)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-3213/
Cloyes timing set( It says its a double roller set, Was wondering do i need to modify anything to make it fit properly?)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-C-3006K/?rtype=10
And i found these 2 at rockauto.com
Clevite timing set-
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1100319
Sealed power timing set-
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=117898
Which one should i get? which would be the best for my 350? Which lasts longer? And whats the difference between a roller timing chain single or double vs. a link belt timing chain? Thanks in advance guys
#10
That is what came in your engine originally.
No modifications needed just read the instructions carefully.
Get the Cloyes.
A link belt is like what is in your engine now. Flat bars pinned together.
Roller is like a bicycle chain. The roller puts less strain on the chain thus making it last longer or so I'm told.
Get the Cloyes.
Roller is like a bicycle chain. The roller puts less strain on the chain thus making it last longer or so I'm told.
#11
#14
Could try the breaker bar against the frame and crank the car method as a last resort.
Your gonna have some fun gettin the timing cover off without pulling the oil pan. I did my chain last fall and removed the pan to do it. Was a pain on jackstands, but not impossible.
Last edited by DJS70cutlass; April 20th, 2011 at 04:44 AM.
#15
You only have to losen the front 4 bolts to drop the pan enough. I did my chain a few months ago, but I didn't put the new gasket in because I'm waiting on my 7 quart oil pan to be done at the powder coating shop
#16
The motors not in the car yet so that was a super easy repair. I used a long breaker bar to get that crank bolt loose. The cam gear's nylon teeth were starting to fail lots of cracks in the teeth. What do i torque the crank dampener bolt too? How many ft. lbs?. And I'm about to install the distributor if the cranks dampener timing marks are at 0 that would mean when the distributor is in it would point at the number 1 spark plug correct? My first time installing a distributor lol thanks guys
#17
What do i torque the crank dampener bolt too? How many ft. lbs?. And I'm about to install the distributor if the cranks dampener timing marks are at 0 that would mean when the distributor is in it would point at the number 1 spark plug correct? My first time installing a distributor lol thanks guys
#18
Any new tips, from some recent timing set installation (motor in vehicle) - Reading the different blogs, seems the biggest concerns (my concerns) are with the bolt removal on the balancer and the cover removal.
For the balancer - I plan to use the impact on balancer bolt and hope it will work
For the cover - Read removing the first 4 pan bolts will allow the timing cover and bottom seal to be removed/installed.
In the process of the allowing the pan to drop, if the gasket should separate, can it be replaced w/o lifting the engine off the mounts?
thanks
For the balancer - I plan to use the impact on balancer bolt and hope it will work
For the cover - Read removing the first 4 pan bolts will allow the timing cover and bottom seal to be removed/installed.
In the process of the allowing the pan to drop, if the gasket should separate, can it be replaced w/o lifting the engine off the mounts?
thanks
#19
Balancer removal in the car: I would remove the raditior and A/C Condensor just to give you more room to get an impact in there, as well as not damage them in the process
Yes, remove the front two bolts on the oil pan. The next 2 bolts back should be backed out but not removed and then you can slide the timing cover gasket in place. I would put the rubber on the timing cover then put it in place. Then just use some RTV and seal it back up
Yes, remove the front two bolts on the oil pan. The next 2 bolts back should be backed out but not removed and then you can slide the timing cover gasket in place. I would put the rubber on the timing cover then put it in place. Then just use some RTV and seal it back up
#21
Was able to remove the cover - Now having a difficult/can't installing the cover back on with a new seal (and the old). I have the first four bolts loose - first two are loose ready to fall out and the next two are loose, the pan has not dropped , which I assume is the gasket bond?? How much will the pan drop? Any other tips/ideas to get a cover back on. thank you
Last edited by Del70; September 1st, 2014 at 01:52 PM.
#22
You need to loosen a lot of the oil pan bolts and then pry it down as it is stuck. The timing cover ws meant to go on first then the oil pan so It is difficult and hopefully you wont disturb the oil pan gasket so it wont seal... always fun. Look to see of you can change the oil pan gasket as well.
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