loose timing chain on olds 350

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Old April 18th, 2011, 03:57 PM
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loose timing chain on olds 350

Well i removed the fuel pump and was able to push the timing chain atleast half an inch towards the gears with my finger, Is this normal? I checked my old 307 and the chain feels about the same. Should i change the timing set? its a 1970 olds 350 2 bbl. Does the 350 have the same nylon cam gear like the 307 does? If so who sells a good cheap timing set without the nylon gears. Cheap being the main word here lol. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old April 18th, 2011, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 84oldsDelta88
Is this normal?
Nope, all the nylon is off the cam gear. You need a timing set.

I did this on my 350 last summer, good luck

All new timing sets have no nylon, they learned that lesson

Last edited by DJS70cutlass; April 18th, 2011 at 04:10 PM.
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Old April 18th, 2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 84oldsDelta88
Cheap being the main word here lol.
Your cheapest would probably be a Clevite or Sealed Power unit available at mail order stores or local parts stores.
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Old April 18th, 2011, 04:41 PM
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Summit Racing has a double roller set for less than $40.

I put this in both my 330 and 350, before they when into the car
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Old April 18th, 2011, 05:53 PM
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Guess you didn't read what Mondello said about the 'Chinesium' timing sets, from Summit! [not that it's gospel]
They're out of round and inaccurate - but probably O.K. for a 2-bbl. engine -
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Old April 18th, 2011, 06:26 PM
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Wow thanks guys good info all around. Well better I replace the timing set now while the motors out of the car. I bet getting the vibration dampener to crank bolt out will be fun I read its like 230 ft. lbs of torque or something like that. I need a better torque wrench too i guess. Well i got some work to do.
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Old April 18th, 2011, 06:51 PM
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Didn't realize that Summit was selling chinesium timing sets. They usually sell American made ones.
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Old April 19th, 2011, 01:51 PM
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Well I did some shopping around today and came up with a couple good ones, wanted you guys to take a look and see what you think. I found these on summit racing.

comp cams ( it says it uses a link belt chain. Are those any good?)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-3213/

Cloyes timing set( It says its a double roller set, Was wondering do i need to modify anything to make it fit properly?)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-C-3006K/?rtype=10

And i found these 2 at rockauto.com

Clevite timing set-
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1100319

Sealed power timing set-
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=117898

Which one should i get? which would be the best for my 350? Which lasts longer? And whats the difference between a roller timing chain single or double vs. a link belt timing chain? Thanks in advance guys
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Old April 19th, 2011, 01:58 PM
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That Cloyes set is the one that I used. I got it at Napa and was in a Napa/Cloyes box

Seemed to be decent to me, worked with no problems.
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Old April 19th, 2011, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 84oldsDelta88
. it says it uses a link belt chain. Are those any good?)
That is what came in your engine originally.

Originally Posted by 84oldsDelta88
Cloyes timing set( It says its a double roller set, Was wondering do i need to modify anything to make it fit properly?)
No modifications needed just read the instructions carefully.

Originally Posted by 84oldsDelta88
Which one should i get?
Get the Cloyes.

Originally Posted by 84oldsDelta88
And whats the difference between a roller timing chain single or double vs. a link belt timing chain?
A link belt is like what is in your engine now. Flat bars pinned together.
Roller is like a bicycle chain. The roller puts less strain on the chain thus making it last longer or so I'm told.
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Old April 19th, 2011, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Redog
Summit Racing has a double roller set for less than $40.

I put this in both my 330 and 350, before they when into the car
Originally Posted by Rickman48
Guess you didn't read what Mondello said about the 'Chinesium' timing sets, from Summit! [not that it's gospel]
They're out of round and inaccurate - but probably O.K. for a 2-bbl. engine -
I never had a problem, and yes Old SKL, it's an American made one
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Old April 20th, 2011, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by InfoJunkie
Get the Cloyes
x2
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Old April 20th, 2011, 04:27 AM
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Napa got the cloyes timing set for 30 bucks so i'm gonna get it thanks guys. Any advice on how to remove the dampener to crank bolt?
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Old April 20th, 2011, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 84oldsDelta88
Napa got the cloyes timing set for 30 bucks so i'm gonna get it thanks guys. Any advice on how to remove the dampener to crank bolt?
Use an impact on it, and to do that the rad has to come out as well, if you don't have one your gonna be in for a fight.

Could try the breaker bar against the frame and crank the car method as a last resort.

Your gonna have some fun gettin the timing cover off without pulling the oil pan. I did my chain last fall and removed the pan to do it. Was a pain on jackstands, but not impossible.

Last edited by DJS70cutlass; April 20th, 2011 at 04:44 AM.
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Old April 20th, 2011, 08:32 PM
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You only have to losen the front 4 bolts to drop the pan enough. I did my chain a few months ago, but I didn't put the new gasket in because I'm waiting on my 7 quart oil pan to be done at the powder coating shop
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Old April 21st, 2011, 05:44 AM
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The motors not in the car yet so that was a super easy repair. I used a long breaker bar to get that crank bolt loose. The cam gear's nylon teeth were starting to fail lots of cracks in the teeth. What do i torque the crank dampener bolt too? How many ft. lbs?. And I'm about to install the distributor if the cranks dampener timing marks are at 0 that would mean when the distributor is in it would point at the number 1 spark plug correct? My first time installing a distributor lol thanks guys
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Old April 21st, 2011, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 84oldsDelta88
What do i torque the crank dampener bolt too? How many ft. lbs?. And I'm about to install the distributor if the cranks dampener timing marks are at 0 that would mean when the distributor is in it would point at the number 1 spark plug correct? My first time installing a distributor lol thanks guys
I think that bolt needs to be torqued to 150ft/lbs..... not sure. You need to be on compression stroke to install dist and rotor pointing to #1 The marks will align on the compression stroke and exhaust stroke.
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Old August 27th, 2014, 08:31 AM
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Any new tips, from some recent timing set installation (motor in vehicle) - Reading the different blogs, seems the biggest concerns (my concerns) are with the bolt removal on the balancer and the cover removal.
For the balancer - I plan to use the impact on balancer bolt and hope it will work

For the cover - Read removing the first 4 pan bolts will allow the timing cover and bottom seal to be removed/installed.
In the process of the allowing the pan to drop, if the gasket should separate, can it be replaced w/o lifting the engine off the mounts?

thanks
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Old August 27th, 2014, 05:27 PM
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Balancer removal in the car: I would remove the raditior and A/C Condensor just to give you more room to get an impact in there, as well as not damage them in the process

Yes, remove the front two bolts on the oil pan. The next 2 bolts back should be backed out but not removed and then you can slide the timing cover gasket in place. I would put the rubber on the timing cover then put it in place. Then just use some RTV and seal it back up
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Old August 27th, 2014, 05:43 PM
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will give it try, thanks.
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Old September 1st, 2014, 01:50 PM
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Was able to remove the cover - Now having a difficult/can't installing the cover back on with a new seal (and the old). I have the first four bolts loose - first two are loose ready to fall out and the next two are loose, the pan has not dropped , which I assume is the gasket bond?? How much will the pan drop? Any other tips/ideas to get a cover back on. thank you

Last edited by Del70; September 1st, 2014 at 01:52 PM.
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Old September 1st, 2014, 03:02 PM
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You need to loosen a lot of the oil pan bolts and then pry it down as it is stuck. The timing cover ws meant to go on first then the oil pan so It is difficult and hopefully you wont disturb the oil pan gasket so it wont seal... always fun. Look to see of you can change the oil pan gasket as well.
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