62DeVille&71Cutlass

hey all another new guy here i'm not the best when it comes to oldsmobiles, though I have always liked them I just picked up a 71 Cutlass supreme 350 rocket and auto trans its a numbers matching block and trans car she came with an edelbrock 600cfm, and performer intake, hei distributor with electronic ignition, and dual flowmaster mufflers. She has decent punch considering i'm used to driving SUV's and last year my 62 DeVille sedan (huge a$$ land yacht) I want more kick in the pants, don't get me wrong she'll light em up fairly easily and occasionally get a second gear chirp. but she just doesn't feel like she pulls hard enough i'm not looking for a 7 sec drag car. But it needs more I'm not sure what will work best I build engines from the ground up with specific components I've never started after some things have been done, I know it sounds stupid but I know what works with cadillac and mopar v8's

Rickman48

You might go to a reliable shop and have your carb re-jetted and distributor re-curved to your application - makes all the difference in the world!
Or, try premium gas, and turn up your timing until it pings, and back it off 'til it stops!
180 thermostat and a K+N air filter will help, too!!

TripDeuces

Typical things would be what Rickman48 said plus headers, free flow air filter/cleaner, shift kit. More involved and you're talking cam, gears, head work/aluminum heads, etc. What works on Caddys and Mopars works on Oldsmobiles too or for that matter any engine in general. They are just big air pumps. More air in and out faster = power increase.

oldcutlass

Let me correct - more air + fuel = more hp. I'd look at the gear ratio as mentioned above!

62DeVille&71Cutlass

thanks for the input I was looking at a cam etc it's just knowing what particular grind works best etc and I know my other issue is the one tire fire problem I need a posi lol

cutlassefi

With all due respect I really hate when guys say that, that's not the best way to do it, too many variables. Yuo could feasible end up with 55 degrees in the upper end and not know it, that's not good either. Do it the right way, check your total with a timing light and at what rpm it stops advancing, then go from there.

Need more info before any of us can recommend a cam. Seems like you may have a decent gear but probably lower compression pistons unless they've been replaced.
Give us more info if possible, happy to help.

62DeVille&71Cutlass

I just got the car and honestly don't know everything thats on her. its a buick 8.5 10 bolt open diff, she may have a shift kit as it does kick shifts hard and fast, I'll probably check the kick down cable adjustment tomorrow, it has flowmaster mufflers stock exhaust manifolds etc. As I stated it has the edelbrock intake and carb electronic ignition. very unlikely but she might have a small cam at 700rpm idle in drive she does lump slightly. That and she is fairrly difficult to start. my other carbed cars two pumps of the pedal and and they fire right up. the cutlass needs to be pumped four or five times then held to the floor before she even thinks about firing up could be fuel related I know. she has a new battery but acts like theres too much compression to turn over quickly for about 5-8seconds. thats all the info I have on her being as I didn't build this engine anything make sense or is it looking fubar