Truly, I do love it. I've waited so long to get back into an Olds it's pathetic. The first and last one "I" owned and drove was a 77 Cutlass with the Y76 (I think that's right) package (Stainless steel band on the roof)...way back in 1988.

Anyways, it's a basic 2 door. Basic = No A/C. Yep. 350 Gold block 2bbl, No tilt column, no arm rest in the middle of the front seat, just a basic coupe, and I couldn't love it any more.

During my 1st 100 miles of driving I've noticed a hesitation at take off BUT my main concern is the higher than normal idle and some, not all the time, run on = after you turn the car off it sputters for a second.

So, I'm asking for a little help in determining what make of carb I have and where I might find some tech know how on how to adjust it. I have a service manual on order already so I know that's the best way to work on it but our rain is ending now and tomorrow will be partly sunny, so I'd like to mess around with it some to see if I can at least adjust the idle. The hesitation may just be inherent in the age of the vehicle, or so I'm guessing.

Any help is always greatly appreciated.

OH, Pics will be coming tomorrow, but it's a 2 door, red with a black vinyl roof. And the best part about it is, 31k actual miles! Tires are great (Thanks to Jaunty for having me check - no dry rot)

Thanks again for any and all help, Paul

 

sounds like a nice ride! don't know enough about them to help you unfortunately but good call on checking the tires dry rot can be very bad i had dry rotted tires on my old lebaron convertible and luckily one just went flat instead of blowing out and causing it to be much worse but unfortunately i didnt get to make it to my destination (the beach) and had to pay an arm and a leg to get it back after they towed it off of the interstate

 

I think one of your first orders of business is a complete tune-up. Points, plugs, condenser, distributor cap. Set timing, dwell, and idle speeds. All specs are in the service manual. With only 31,000 miles, I can't believe a carburetor rebuild is needed, but a good spray with Gumout might not hurt.

Check all the vacuum hoses. These age regardless of mileage and can be dried out and leaky. With only 31,000 miles on the car, I would imagine all rubber parts are original and are thus 38 years old.

About those tires. With only 31,000 miles on the car, any chance they're the original tires?

 

This was done by the previous owner. The 350 runs like a champ. It's one of the smoothest revving engines I've EVER heard, next to a Jap car that is.No, really. This thing purrs...lol!

Heh, it's funny you should mention these. I actually had to disconnect the washer pump feed line. I filled the washer reservoir to check the washer pump and the damn thing wouldn't shut off!!

I'll post up the brand. I didn't recognize the name (Regal something) but they look good. Substantial tread left on them.

The BIG car, as it's going to be called at home..lol!, besides the carb adjustment needed, runs and drives like a dream. The steering is VERY responsive, much more than my 70 Cougar.

The plans I have for this BIG car are as follows, AFTER all major components are checked and/or replaced:

Pertronix ignition, duel exhaust, 4bbl w/intake and some sort of lift on it. I'm not going to be running 24" tires BUT, I used a set of JCWhitney's "Extra High Lift" coil springs on my Cutlass. Those in combination with the air shocks in the back made for a monster of a Cutlass. I LOVED the ride height and it didn't look bad.

That is all. Well, maybe the body work and some new paint. And of course over time. But first things first, check out all the major systems for any problems (already found a couple little things = no dash lights for one)

Overall, I LOVE this car. I have not loved a car this much since I owned a 1997 Saturn SC2 5 speed. That was a nice quick VERY gas efficient car. I actually have not loved many cars in my past. I've LIKED them but not like this one. I hope to God this one stays in decent shape (nothing major failing).

 

Pictures!!!

 

I will second what Jaunty said. You may not need to replace the parts if they've been done recently, but you should definitely start from scratch and re-adjust the dwell, timing, mixture, and idle speed. There's no '73 manual (yet) on WildAboutCars, but '72 should be about the same.

By the way, your carb. is a 2-Jet, and rebuild stuff should be available with a 1-2 day delay at your local parts store.

As for a carb rebuild, I am afraid I have to disagree with Jaunty -
While it's true that your carb has probably had very little wear, it may have a significant amount of gunk and corrosion inside, and the gaskets might not tolerate disassembly and reassembly gracefully. Also, gaskets and seals may be dried out and slightly leaky.
I'd get a rebuild kit, take it apart and clean it, check the float height, pull-off settings, etc.

- Eric

 

Really? In your first post on this, you said this:
If hesitation on giving it gas, running at too high an idle speed, and running-on after the ignition is shut off is your idea of running "like a champ," I'd hate to see what you consider a poor running engine!

When did the previous owner do it? If it was last week, ok. But if it was done before the car was parked 10 years ago, you might want to consider doing it again.

 

There is a separate fuse in the fuse block just for the instrument panel lights. It's a small, 3 or 4-amp (I can't offhand remember which) thing. That would be the first thing I'd check. Otherwise, it could be a bad headlight switch.

On my '73, the headlights worked OK, but the dash lights and dome lights not at all. It turned out that the variable resistor in the headlight switch, which is this sort-of coiled-spring-looking circular thing with a little metal tab that presses against it and which moves as you turn the ****, had a break in it. The only solution was to put a new headlight switch in. That was a $10, over-the-counter item at the local Autozone.

The hard part in all this was getting at the headlight switch. You have to pull the left side trim panel forward, and the only way to do that is to first remove the lower trim panel on the left side and disconnect the control cable for the temperature slide switch on the A/C/heater system. Then remove the four (I think) screws around the edges of the trim panel. Then there is enough slack in the wiper, heater control, and headlight switch wiring to pull the trim panel forward enough to get at the headlights switch behind it.

Then you've got to get the headlight switch itself out, and that's no mean feat, either. You have to pull the **** toward you, like you were turning the headlights on, and keep pull while WHILE pressing a little button in the underside of the switch behind the trim panel. As you soon as you press this little button, the **** and shaft will come all the way out, and you can remove the switch by unscrewing the retainer ring holding it on the dash. Reinstalling the **** is just pushing it back in again from the front side of the dash after the switch is reattached to the dash.

A new headlight switch does not come with a **** or shaft, so you'll need to reuse your old ones. That makes sense because these switches were used on many different cars, but you want the **** to match the other ***** on the dash of the particular car it's installed in.

The headlight switch wiring is just one big connector that you pull off after first pressing in on whatever side the release is on.


But, if you're lucky, it's just the fuse!

 

x2!

 

What I meant was... While sitting in park, the revving is nice and smooth.

**UPDATE** Well, I messed with the idle, disconnected the fast idle thingy (Sorry, can't remember the correct name) but I'm going to reconnect it. With it unhooked the stumble was more noticeable. I finally got a chance to floor it to see how well it did on something like that and it went "vroommmm...sputter...vroo...sputter sputter vroommmm" well, you get the picture.

So, I'm not afraid of rebuilding the carb. What I am afraid of is IF there are small parts inside that need to go a certain way. Even though I'm 47 my hands are not the steadiest things anymore. Is there anything to rebuilding it that requires something like that?

I'm also going to replace the fuel filter. Just today I put a can of Berryman's B12 fuel cleanser in the tank. I also sprayed the H E Double Hockey Sticks out of the carb with carb cleaner. I don't know when or IF the fuel filter has been replaced.

And last thing - Is there any place special to get the rebuild kit or will places like Autozone kits be ok? I do live relatively close to Summit Racing so I could stop out there and get a rebuild kit. Heck, I even considered buying a rebuilt 2bbl carb. But, I'd like to tackle rebuilding the carb first. That way I can say I at least did it!

Sorry, no time for pics today. Sunny skies tomorrow = pics.

 

You know, you've got a point there. Maybe I'll just upgrade to Pertronix and be done with it. Any problems doing so that you or others have come across?

 

I bought a rebuild kit for the 2-bbl carb on my '67 Delta 88 at Autozone. It was fine. Had all the right parts, and they all fit fine.

I also bought a copy of this book:



Amazon has used ones for $8 plus $3.99 shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...920689&x=0&y=0

It was VERY helpful in taking the carburetor apart in the right order and putting it back together again. Lots of good photos. Well worth the money.

Keep a digital camera next to you and take a picture every step of the way. If you can't remember how something goes back together, look at the appropriate photo.

In the end, rebuilding the carb turned out to be much easier than I thought it would be and very satisfying to reinstall and have the car run so much better.

 

You should be able to get a rebuild kit at any regular auto parts store, but they may not have it in stock.

There are a few small parts (BBs), but nothing that I would think requires unusual dexterity - just look at the exploded views, and watch out for stuff falling out when you turn it over!

- Eric

 

I haven't done this. I still have the mechanical points, etc. as was originally on the car. I replaced the points, rotor, condenser, etc. on my '73 without a problem and was able to tune it up just fine. Converting to all electronic is certainly a good way to go, but there's nothing wrong with staying with the stock setup if you maintain it.

 

Well, since my last post I had to have it towed Ended up being the points were way out of wack.

But anyways, everything is all better now except for an annoying surge while cruising. As soon as I accelerate it's fine but then when cruising it likes to surge. Colder air makes it a bit worse so I'm thinking there is some extra air getting in somewhere. I'll check the vacuum hoses BUT, I'd like to know, is there some type of spray chemical that won't harm the rubber but will make the engine rev if there is a leak? I was thinking of starting fluid but isn't that rather harsh on rubber components?

On the flip side, I "might" be able to convert to a 4bbl carb with relatively low cost. I have a Edelbrock 4bbl carb on my Cougar. I think it's a 1405 or 06, one of the standard ones. If I can find a decent used 4bbl intake for $75 or less I might just swap it over, since this is in the plans for the 88 anyways.

 

So, that little thing we mentioned about checking the dwell and timing...

Personally, I always carry a timing light and dwell meter for just such occasions .

For vacuum leaks, anything flammable will do.
Starting ether should be fine, propane or MAPP gas from a torch is good too.

As for the carb, I'd rebuild it and see how it runs. With that low compression motor you may get some benefit from a 4bbl over a 2bbl, but you may get none or so little as to make it not worth the time and money.

Good luck!

- Eric

 

Another question: What were some, if more than one, stock rear ends that the 88's came with from the factory? When I get past my stumble on take off, the 88 seems to have a pretty quick rear, maybe a 3.27?

 

if the car has been sittingfor a while one of the best thing you can do is put something along the lines of seafoam, marvel mystery oil, etc in the fuel and simply put some miles on it while keeping an eye on things. go to the parts store and buy about 6' of 5/32" vacuum line and replace everything that you can see & throw what you have leftover in the trunk so you'll have it with you if you need it. figure out where the fuel filter is and change it, get a couple extras to carry in the glove box along with the necessary tools to change the filter when needed.
something i did on granny green was to pull the hard line off between the fuel pump and carburator and replace it with a piece of 3/8" hose and i've been using the wix & fram see thru fuel filters, they last longer than the small filter that goes in the front of the carb and you can keep tabs on any sediment accumulation. 'ol granny sat for about 25yrs with about a 1/4 tank of gas so i've been getting a fair amount of rust in the filter but it's getting better.
it just takes a little time and patience and a bit of fiddling around and she'll be fine.