Hi! In a recent thread I was being educated about the vacuum port tree (distributor vacuum switch) at the front of my intake and manifold vs ported vacuum. I have had a doozy of a time removing this piece to either replace it or cap it off and reroute vacuum lines. The brass nut won't budge and I've tried a line wrench, vice grips, monkey wrench, Adjustable wrench, all to no avail and the nut is pretty beat up now. The oil filler tube, thermostat housing, and heads just don't give much room even with the carb off. So I'm thinking I'll need to take the manifold off which might be a good idea anyway as a MAW to replace the gasket. I see that there are two intake manifold gaskets available, a turkey pan gasket and a thinner one. Which do you recommend for a stock 1972 350 and do you have any advice for removing the intake? Or do you have another idea for getting this vacuum tree removed? Thank you!
Chris

 

If you are getting rid of a bad piece you should break off the top and try and get at it with a socket.

 

First, the thermal vacuum switch for these cars is not reproduced. Do not destroy it if possible. Even if you don't want it, someone else will.
Second, the easiest way to remove the switch is with the intake still attached to the engine to anchor it. Get a longer wrench.
Third, you don't need to remove the switch. As I've written previously, if you simply disconnect the electrical plug and leave the vacuum lines connected to the switch, you get vac advance in all gears AND you get the protection of switching from ported to manifold vacuum if the engine starts to overheat.
Finally, use the turkey tray intake.

 

Hi! Thank you both for your replies. Joe I have read your previous post in the other thread and am going with what you suggested about removing the electrical connection. However I am installing another vacuum switch as mine had ports broken off and plugged with screws so this one has to come off either way. Since it is already damaged I might do what the previous user suggested by cutting off the top and using a socket. In the past I have found some success with removing rounded off nuts by hammering on a sacrificial metric socket (so it's nice and tight) and remove it that way. Thank you both!
Chris

 

Remove the thermostat housing grab the correct sized six sided or even adjustable wrench, a huge piece of hollow pipe, and crank it out. Worst case scenario it breaks in the hole. Mine was the same way - large metal pipe about 2-3 feet long provides enormous leverage.

 

Vintage Chief, if it does break off in the hole, what's the best way to proceed after that? I just want to be prepared. Thank you!
Chris

 

Chris. You won’t know the answer to your question unless it breaks. Personally I doubt it will break. Should it break, you’ll proceed based upon where and how it broke - clean break, top break off, or what. There’s nothing wrong employing a BFH and providing a solid SMACK against the wrench.

 

Chris, if you do break the TCS I have 2 spares.

 

Chris, I popped the hood and reviewed the location of the switch to ensure I had a better look (again). Remove that bloody oil filler tube. It's easy to pop out. You can take an old towel, or shop cloth or whatever and wrap it around the oil filler tube if you like or use a piece of wood as a make-shift whacking block. Just begin by tapping the top of the oil filler tube on ALL sides until you see some movement in the oil filler tube. The oil filler tube is NOT screwed in or held in by any means whatsoever other than it is nothing more than inserted into the metal with light taps from the top. It comes out easily - it only takes a little 'convincing' with a (preferably) solid rubber hammer, or a hammer and wrapped cloth or wooden block whilst banging on it until it begins to move and then just pull it out. At this point, even if the switch is completely beaten up, you can easily attach a pipe wrench onto the base of the switch and get solid leverage on backing out that switch.

 

You may need to loosen/remove the fuel line from fuel pump to carb and that other water hose but you got this man.

 

Vintage Chief, thank you for the idea to remove the oil filler tube! It worked! Since the switch was already broken (the whole reason for replacing in the first place) I was able to use an old trick I've used before and probably many of you have as well. I used a hammer to bang on a sacrificial 23mm socket and since that's slightly smaller than the 1" brass nut that was rounded off already it fit real nice and tight. I was then able to put a pipe on the end of the socket wrench handle and slowly back it out. I'm going to go with joes idea of hooking all vaccuum lines up but leaving the switch unattached. Thanks guys!
Chris

 

Happy you got it out.