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I decided to start a new thread here regarding the Edelbrock 7111 installation on my SBO 350.
I am trying to figure out several things. The most pressing is a new issue. I need help in figuring out how to install the intake when the bolt holes do not line up. I will post pictures here in a second...
Also, I am trying to figure out
1. What the bolt lengths are for the middle four bolts on the intake.
2. How do I get a wrench on the "special bolt" over the #7 and the #6 postition (according to the torque sequence)?
3. Do I allow the silicone to dry before installing intake or do I just let it "tack up" a little?
4. Torque spec? I have heard both 25 ftlb and 35 ftlb.
Now for pictures...
These are pictures of the 2,4,6,8 side where I aligned the bolt holes.
This last picture shows the outside bolts lined up as well as the "special bolt" locations and the problem of their clearance to the manifold.
Thank you all for your continued help. Your patience is very much appreciated (especially for the multiple threads, sorry). I wanted to consolidate everything regarding this issue here. Sorry again for any duplicates!
It looks like fat intake gaskets have pushed the intake up too far to align. If the heads were cut, that exacerbates the issue. You may have to cut the intake to suit. It looks like one side is oh 1/2 diameter off, so if you level it, each side 1/4 dia. off or 3/8 x 1/4 or 3/32" so about 0.100" or so. You would want to do more accurate investigations before cutting metal.
If the holes line up without a gasket, what does that mean? Is it a matter of using the gasket thickness to determine how much metal has to come off? Obviously these cannot be installed without gaskets. Is there a thinner one you might recommend? These are the Edelbrock "EDL-7284" .060 thickness gaskets. Would the valley pan gasket be a good alternative?
Last edited by 1968CutlassSupreme; June 11th, 2016 at 05:57 PM.
Very common problem, as said if heads have been milled even worse. Edelbrock intakes also aren't always straight. Use the factory style pan gasket and all will be well.
Thanks z11375ss, I will need them. Everything on this car has been a nightmare to this point. I pray for a smooth and successful finish.
Olds 307 and 403, I have a factory valley pan gasket on the way. I really hope it resolves this so I can move on.
Do you have any idea about the length of the middle four bolts as well as how I can get those "special bolts" to tighten down consdiering there is no real clearance to get a wrench or socket on them...
I had to have my intake milled to make it fit properly. I used the readily available individual shims from the earlier sbo's . Good luck hopefully iy fits with the turkey tray. It is a big diffrence in thickness.
So far I'm on 4 for 4 having to mill Edelbrock intakes.
If it aligns well without any gaskets - use feelers - then you can gauge how much to cut based on the gasket thickness. The metal gaskets MAY work out, but I have a personal hatred against them.
Strongly recommend getting a machinist to look at it and make a judgement call. You can always start small and cut off more, but that's more machine setup time so it can get costly.
First thing to do is use a good straight edge to make sure the thing is straight to begin with.
There isn't anything wrong with using hardware store bolts for the intake manifold. Remember they are torqued to 35 Ft-Lbs so they don't they don't need to be Grade 8 hardened bolts with 150,000 psi tensile strength to hold the intake manifold onto the engine. Regular Grade 5 bolts will be quite sufficient.
Last edited by Fun71; June 13th, 2016 at 01:06 PM.
So far I'm on 4 for 4 having to mill Edelbrock intakes. I haven't had one yet that didn't have to be cut for one reason or another. So much for American quality, shame.
If it aligns well without any gaskets - use feelers - then you can gauge how much to cut based on the gasket thickness. The metal gaskets MAY work out, but I have a personal hatred against them. They won't work any better than the soft ones.
Strongly recommend getting a machinist to look at it and make a judgement call. You can always start small and cut off more, but that's more machine setup time so it can get costly.
First thing to do is use a good straight edge to make sure the thing is straight to begin with.
X2. Plus make sure both the intake and heads mate at the correct angle.
Don't be in such a hurry Bryan, take your time and do it right the first time.
I did set the intake onto the block before I did anything and the intake and the heads seem to fit together well - no rocking or teetering from any side.
I'll have to check this a little closer when I get those edelbrock gaskets scraped off.
On another note, I must say I don't feel like I am in a hurry considering it's been forever since I've started the engine process. I think, also, that I am afraid that the longer the engine sits without being used it will begin to rust or corrode or begin to have reasons for failure if I let it sit too long. It's already been almost 2 months since I've received everything from the machine shop. And that's after the first 18 long months of waiting.
I am sorry if I seem impatient, and I am really not trying to rush. I say this considering I was told by the machinist that I could have the engine built in a couple days time if I concentrated on it. I am taking my time doing every step. Keeping everything clean, double checking every spec and torque rating, fitting everything together several times before I try to assemble anything, etc. This is true for the intake as well, except I had to stick the gaskets to the heads so I could test the fitment of the intake. I guess I just don't want to see another year go by without even being able to run the car. I've got a long way to go I guess.
I have an engine i have been building for 4 years. if you coat the cylinders with a little trans fluid just a light film. It protects it. The just turn it over a few times every now and again. My current engine took almost 7 months to build. They can sit for a while before they get bad but if you coat stuff the right way there will be no worries.
The engine will be fine on the stand for quite a while. As long as the cylinders got coated with good oil (or tranny fluid) and good assembly lube was used. I don't like lithium grease because it can dry into a chalky paste. The goopy lubes don't. Just don't let mice set up a nest in the intake valley.
For the fasteners, use 12 point 3/8" bolts - I like stainless stuff - and a 12 point socket. I think 1/2" drive 12 point 3/8" reaches all the crevices, but a 1/4" drive certainly does. I usually aim for 25-30 ft lb on aluminum intakes using three cycles to get there. These intakes will flex, so fasten them slowly. I think the short bolts are 1.25"? Maybe just 1"? OPP has a bolt set that's pretty good and takes out all the guess work and has good hardened small washers.
Let the big end rail RTV strand skin over - 10 to 15 minutes. I lay that down, then work on the gaskets. I use SCE fiber gaskets (the plain ones, the ones with the silicone outline are crap) with a thin skin of RTV both sides of the water ports plus a spray tack (I like copper because it's pretty!) on both sides of the air ports. Everyone has different preferences on types (or any) of adhesives to use. By the time the gaskets are prepped and the intake/head surfaces are wiped down then the end rail RTV is ready to go.
I know how you feel - I've been in that same spot many times. Take your time here, as pulling and reinstalling the intake is a much bigger PITA once the engine is installed!!
Olds intakes are really wide, so they just have a higher tendency to leak than Chebby stuff. Many builders aren't familiar with that.
Going to get bolts for intake soon! Intake lines up with valley pan gasket! YEAH!! (that's the good news )
New problem: the tray part of the pan gasket hits the lifters. What I have are erson hydraulic roller lifters like these:
The pan seems to be hitting the connecting bar. Drat! Are there any other metal gaskets that are thin like the valley pan gasket without the "valley" part? Is there a baffle I can install in the valley to function the same way as the pan does for a street car?
June 11th, 2016, 02:32 PM
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