I need more timing!?!?

Old Oct 8, 2018 | 05:06 AM
  #1  
Tsiakos1987's Avatar
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From: Oshawa, Ontario
I need more timing!?!?

Hey! I have a 72 Supreme with a 350 it has HEI from a 75 and I’m trying to set the timing a bit more but the advance canister hits the fire wall! Is there any remedy to this other then replacing the distributor/canister? Thanks!
Old Oct 8, 2018 | 06:19 AM
  #2  
oldcutlass's Avatar
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Put the eng on #1tdc, pull the distributor out a little to allow your to rotate the rotor to the left 1 tooth and then move the body of the distributor to the left so its pointing to #1 spark plug wire again. That will shift everything and allow you more timing adjustment.
Old Oct 8, 2018 | 06:19 AM
  #3  
RetroRanger's Avatar
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Yes just remove the distributor and put it back in 1 tooth offset from where it was to allow you to turn the dizzy more w out the vac can hitting the firewall

you need the mark or note where the rotor points before you remove the dizzy and when you reinstall make sure the rotor is slightly more clockwise from that position.

its easy to do but can be a little tricky because when you remove and reinsert the dizzy the rotor will move because of the way the gears are cut.
Old Oct 8, 2018 | 08:26 AM
  #4  
joe_padavano's Avatar
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
its easy to do but can be a little tricky because when you remove and reinsert the dizzy the rotor will move because of the way the gears are cut.
The tricky part is that the hex-shaped oil pump drive shaft will not line up with the socket in the distributor gear when you move the distributor one tooth. The gear engages the cam drive gear first, before the oil pump drive shaft engages. You can move the distributor one tooth, but the distributor won't go all the way back in since the oil pump drive shaft will hold it up. Bump the starter and the drive shaft will eventually line up, allowing the distributor to be inserted the rest of the way.
Old Oct 9, 2018 | 02:27 PM
  #5  
Seff's Avatar
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No need to move the distributor one tooth. Note the position of the #1 terminal on the distributor cap. Now unbolt the distributor enough to allow you to turn the base. Turn the base in whichever direction allows you more room to adjust, until you line up the rotor with the closest terminal (typically moving it one terminal over from the #1). This is now your new #1 terminal. Fasten the base. Move all your other plug wires according to the #1 wire, in the firing order, counter clockwise.


The easiest way to do this is to mark the #1 terminal, as well as the ones on either side of it, on the distributor base, before removing the distributor cap.
Old Oct 9, 2018 | 06:10 PM
  #6  
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thats a good idea easier too
Old Oct 9, 2018 | 06:39 PM
  #7  
droldsmorland's Avatar
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Great upgrade along with Taylor Spiral Core wires and Autolite plugs filed back and gapped to .040"
Make sure the shart and upper/lower shaft bushings are not worn out.
FYI, be aware the 75 advance curve isn't optimal for a 72. To gain noticeable improvements (smoothness w/o spark knock) I would advise either you or a well-equipped shop giving it a recurve. before installation.
You are aware you to run a full 12 volt "keyed" wire directly to the distributors? Do not use the point system feed wire.
There are several high-quality aftermarket vendors catering to stock and upgrade HEI parts((Brass tower cap, high-quality rotor, coil, coil button... et al) Carry an extra module & heat paste in the glove box. Make sure the engine grounds are fresh. Bad grounds will kill an HEI.
Old Oct 9, 2018 | 06:56 PM
  #8  
Run to Rund's Avatar
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Instead of bumping the engine over you can put a 5/16" socket down the hole and turn the oil pump drive shaft a bit. I use a long extension and tape the socket to it, so it can't pop off and fall into the engine.
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