I need more power and i need it now!
April 21st, 2016, 10:40 AM
#41
'87 Delta 88 Royale
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Margate, England
Posts: 2,513
I do not intend to stay a nube haha but i am only 19, and if youve paid attention lately teens dont pick up old cars and work on them anymore. Theyre stuck to their cell phones and Internet. Not a single person i know will work on a car with me so you guys are my only human source of information. I need an old car guru to apprentice under and learn everything he knows haha. Any of you guys live in ohio...? Cough.. Cough...
So I joined American car clubs, went to the meets and shows, and asked other owners about how they dealt with problems. Mostly I was given helpful advice by friendly owners. Now I am often helping people in the same position I was in back in the day.
So come on you guys, lets help an enthusiastic newcomer to the hobby enjoy his car.
Look up the local cruise ins on the net and show up, maybe you won't see too many Oldsmobiles, but many GM cars of a similar age to yours had the Olds 307 engine under their hoods. No doubt after attending a few meetings you will find out where to go for advice and help. And enjoy seeing other cars loved and cherished by their owners.
Roger.
April 21st, 2016, 10:43 AM
#42
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
Well, yeah, with labor.
But this gentleman is 19, and as we all can recall (even those of us who don't remember what we had for breakfast this morning), a 19 year old can do anything, mostly because he doesn't know that he can't.
An engine hoist can be rented for $50 to $100 for the day, and with the help of a few buddies, and the risk of a few broken fingers, anyone can swap out an engine, if he believes he can.
- Eric
But this gentleman is 19, and as we all can recall (even those of us who don't remember what we had for breakfast this morning), a 19 year old can do anything, mostly because he doesn't know that he can't.
An engine hoist can be rented for $50 to $100 for the day, and with the help of a few buddies, and the risk of a few broken fingers, anyone can swap out an engine, if he believes he can.
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 10:49 AM
#43
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
I had something of the same issues simply by living in a country where American cars are a rarity. Not because I didn't know one end of a wrench from the other, but because it was hard to find people with a good knowledge of these cars. This was way before the internet by the way.
So I joined American car clubs, went to the meets and shows, and asked other owners about how they dealt with problems. Mostly I was given helpful advice by friendly owners. Now I am often helping people in the same position I was in back in the day.
So come on you guys, lets help an enthusiastic newcomer to the hobby enjoy his car.
Look up the local cruise ins on the net and show up, maybe you won't see too many Oldsmobiles, but many GM cars of a similar age to yours had the Olds 307 engine under their hoods. No doubt after attending a few meetings you will find out where to go for advice and help. And enjoy seeing other cars loved and cherished by their owners.
Roger.
So I joined American car clubs, went to the meets and shows, and asked other owners about how they dealt with problems. Mostly I was given helpful advice by friendly owners. Now I am often helping people in the same position I was in back in the day.
So come on you guys, lets help an enthusiastic newcomer to the hobby enjoy his car.
Look up the local cruise ins on the net and show up, maybe you won't see too many Oldsmobiles, but many GM cars of a similar age to yours had the Olds 307 engine under their hoods. No doubt after attending a few meetings you will find out where to go for advice and help. And enjoy seeing other cars loved and cherished by their owners.
Roger.
April 21st, 2016, 10:51 AM
#44
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Oh, I didn't notice they were short blocks. The ad was also from four years ago.
Sorry.
But still, if John has a motor that runs well, he would be a good man to buy from.
It is always best, if buying a motor to use as-is (without rebuilding), to check it out before it is removed from the donor car, and drive the car if possible, so that you can see that the engine runs well.
- Eric
Sorry.
But still, if John has a motor that runs well, he would be a good man to buy from.
It is always best, if buying a motor to use as-is (without rebuilding), to check it out before it is removed from the donor car, and drive the car if possible, so that you can see that the engine runs well.
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 10:54 AM
#45
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
April 21st, 2016, 10:55 AM
#46
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
And thats why i ask haha i really don't know much, but i want to!!! What is a short block compared to what i need?
April 21st, 2016, 10:56 AM
#47
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
By the way, guys, I really thought that we had a thread around here called "Pulling the Engine," possibly by Macadoo.
Can't find the bloody thing anywhere.
If anyone can dig it up, I think it would be very helpful for this gentleman.
- Eric
Can't find the bloody thing anywhere.
If anyone can dig it up, I think it would be very helpful for this gentleman.
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 10:58 AM
#48
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
Oh, I didn't notice they were short blocks. The ad was also from four years ago.
Sorry.
But still, if John has a motor that runs well, he would be a good man to buy from.
It is always best, if buying a motor to use as-is (without rebuilding), to check it out before it is removed from the donor car, and drive the car if possible, so that you can see that the engine runs well.
- Eric
Sorry.
But still, if John has a motor that runs well, he would be a good man to buy from.
It is always best, if buying a motor to use as-is (without rebuilding), to check it out before it is removed from the donor car, and drive the car if possible, so that you can see that the engine runs well.
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 10:58 AM
#49
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
A shortblock is a block, with a crank, bearings, cam, pistons, rods, and rings.
A longblock is the above with heads, valves, etc.
I don't recall where the oil pump falls into that mix.
Neither of the above has the peripheral stuff like manifolds, brackets, carburetor, starter, etc.
- Eric
A longblock is the above with heads, valves, etc.
I don't recall where the oil pump falls into that mix.
Neither of the above has the peripheral stuff like manifolds, brackets, carburetor, starter, etc.
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 11:00 AM
#50
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 11:09 AM
#51
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,807
April 21st, 2016, 11:17 AM
#55
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
Duly notted. It seems, correct me if im wrong, that if i found a complete running engine, it would not be all that difficult or complex to take mine out and drop a new one in. Juat time consuming, precise, and heavy lol
April 21st, 2016, 11:20 AM
#56
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Exactly.
Two motor mount attachment bolts, six transmission bolts, three converter bolts, two exhaust flange bolts, two fuel lines, throttle and transmission cables, wiring, distributor cap,
plus removal of a whole bunch or peripheral stuff that's in the way...
- Eric
Two motor mount attachment bolts, six transmission bolts, three converter bolts, two exhaust flange bolts, two fuel lines, throttle and transmission cables, wiring, distributor cap,
plus removal of a whole bunch or peripheral stuff that's in the way...
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 11:27 AM
#59
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
1983 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual This will have all the relevant information you need for the tune up and looking after any emissions issues. Also includes information about engine repair etc. Very detailed book. Too bad I gave mine away when I sold my 83 Ninety Eight.
1983 Oldsmobile Electrical Troubleshooting Manual Because we all know that nothing electrical ever goes wrong....
1983 Oldsmobile Electrical Troubleshooting Manual Because we all know that nothing electrical ever goes wrong....
April 21st, 2016, 11:30 AM
#60
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
April 21st, 2016, 11:35 AM
#61
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
Awesome, thanks for the encouragement eric. Youve sparked a new fire
April 21st, 2016, 11:38 AM
#62
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
April 21st, 2016, 11:42 AM
#63
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Plus, the exhaust pipe connection MAY be different in your car, compared to earlier cars (it was on a 260 I had),
plus, you will need to fabricate or modify a proper attachment for the transmission TV cable to the throttle lever,
plus, you are likely to need a larger radiator. Maybe.
Plus, there's always more...
Bottom line: Don't do this if you've got to drive to work later that day.
- Eric
plus, you will need to fabricate or modify a proper attachment for the transmission TV cable to the throttle lever,
plus, you are likely to need a larger radiator. Maybe.
Plus, there's always more...
Bottom line: Don't do this if you've got to drive to work later that day.
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 11:51 AM
#64
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Mo-Ray-Al, K-Bec.
Posts: 1,815
You're also gonna need a full set of tools to go with all that new optimism. But the first thing to look at before you go nuts is to learn how to verify the timing and check that timing chain. I've got the same wagon minus the CCC carb and with the 3 sp trans ... and while I'm not going to win any races, I can keep most cars beside me when they want to cut ahead.
April 21st, 2016, 01:14 PM
#66
Hookers under Hood
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,543
It wasn't until I stumbled upon my 76 that I knew it was a keeper, a car that I had loads of fun in back in the mid 80's.
I've learned alot here and can just about bolt anything on and make it work with the help from the guys here diagnosing my efforts.
I'm 49 and just bought my first dial back timing light, don't know how to use it yet, but I know I have loads of help here when the time comes.
Buy a few tools if you can, they will always come in handy.
I hope you stick around and take as much in as you can from these guys, they are awesome!!!
Its great to see a young guy getting into an Olds and really taking a liking to it.
Cheers
Eric
Last edited by 76olds; April 21st, 2016 at 01:17 PM.
April 21st, 2016, 01:37 PM
#67
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
I take my hat off to you !! I wish I had the interest you have with cars at 19, I spent most of my time in a machine shop most times up to 70hrs per week for many years.
It wasn't until I stumbled upon my 76 that I knew it was a keeper, a car that I had loads of fun in back in the mid 80's.
I've learned alot here and can just about bolt anything on and make it work with the help from the guys here diagnosing my efforts.
I'm 49 and just bought my first dial back timing light, don't know how to use it yet, but I know I have loads of help here when the time comes.
Buy a few tools if you can, they will always come in handy.
I hope you stick around and take as much in as you can from these guys, they are awesome!!!
Its great to see a young guy getting into an Olds and really taking a liking to it.
Cheers
Eric
It wasn't until I stumbled upon my 76 that I knew it was a keeper, a car that I had loads of fun in back in the mid 80's.
I've learned alot here and can just about bolt anything on and make it work with the help from the guys here diagnosing my efforts.
I'm 49 and just bought my first dial back timing light, don't know how to use it yet, but I know I have loads of help here when the time comes.
Buy a few tools if you can, they will always come in handy.
I hope you stick around and take as much in as you can from these guys, they are awesome!!!
Its great to see a young guy getting into an Olds and really taking a liking to it.
Cheers
Eric
Last edited by Northern Custom Cruiser; April 21st, 2016 at 01:44 PM.
April 21st, 2016, 02:07 PM
#68
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
Plus, the exhaust pipe connection MAY be different in your car, compared to earlier cars (it was on a 260 I had),
plus, you will need to fabricate or modify a proper attachment for the transmission TV cable to the throttle lever,
plus, you are likely to need a larger radiator. Maybe.
Plus, there's always more...
Bottom line: Don't do this if you've got to drive to work later that day.
- Eric
plus, you will need to fabricate or modify a proper attachment for the transmission TV cable to the throttle lever,
plus, you are likely to need a larger radiator. Maybe.
Plus, there's always more...
Bottom line: Don't do this if you've got to drive to work later that day.
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 02:09 PM
#69
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
Ive also got a decent arsenal of tools, nothing crazy, but im sure theres a few i can borrow from a few people i know like the engine lift. Ive got a buddy whos grandpa has got a pretty nice air tool set up that i may be dropping in on more often lol
April 21st, 2016, 02:10 PM
#70
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
April 21st, 2016, 03:39 PM
#71
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
April 21st, 2016, 08:14 PM
#72
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,405
You'll have a lot of fun with your first experience trying to figure out which is metric and which is SAE hardware. I had a fair amount of experience before getting my '83 (when I was 18) and still found it to be a nightmare.
The general rule of thumb is that anything going into the engine block is SAE, but any accessory brackets or chassis hardware is metric. Good luck with your project.
The general rule of thumb is that anything going into the engine block is SAE, but any accessory brackets or chassis hardware is metric. Good luck with your project.
April 21st, 2016, 08:32 PM
#73
Hookers under Hood
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,543
[QUOTE=MDchanic;914099]Shhhhhhh!!! I'm still on probation from the last time.
HAHA ,Lord tunderin' Geez, Then they let a crazy bugger like Eric in here. "PROBATION FROM THE LAST TIME" oh man lmao!!!
What would this site be like without crazy guys!!
HAHA ,Lord tunderin' Geez, Then they let a crazy bugger like Eric in here. "PROBATION FROM THE LAST TIME" oh man lmao!!!
What would this site be like without crazy guys!!
April 21st, 2016, 09:15 PM
#74
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 9,010
I hate to be boring, but none of these ideas is going to add significant power to your 307.
A small amount of extra power, maybe, but possibly at the expense of smoothness and driveability, as the 307 setup you have was designed to work properly with all of the emission control crap intact, and things tend to get a little unpredictable when you start removing things.
The thing that will get you the best improvement in power from that engine, short of radical action, such as a complete rebuild with different components (pointless when you can bolt in a 350 or a 403) is a good tune-up, following the factory procedures exactly, and replacing any tubes, lines, hoses, and components that may be broken or missing.
You need to get a factory service manual for that car. eBay is likely to be your best source.
Then you need to locate the tools you will need to make the needed measurements and adjustments for that engine, which are not only the standard timing light and tach/dwell meter.
First, though, you need to go through all of the components and just make sure everything's working and you don't have any glaring vacuum leaks or similar problems, and, I would suggest, rebuild the carburetor.
I'm sure some here will disagree with me, and I do not wish to offend anyone, but if so, then please tell us, from your own experience, how much power you gained from disconnecting a functioning EGR or adding dual exhausts to an anemic low-revving 307.
Basics first: Clean up, tune up, fix what's broken.
Either that, or drop a good 350 or 403 in there - there were two guys on here giving away running 350s within the past 2 months or so.
- Eric
A small amount of extra power, maybe, but possibly at the expense of smoothness and driveability, as the 307 setup you have was designed to work properly with all of the emission control crap intact, and things tend to get a little unpredictable when you start removing things.
The thing that will get you the best improvement in power from that engine, short of radical action, such as a complete rebuild with different components (pointless when you can bolt in a 350 or a 403) is a good tune-up, following the factory procedures exactly, and replacing any tubes, lines, hoses, and components that may be broken or missing.
You need to get a factory service manual for that car. eBay is likely to be your best source.
Then you need to locate the tools you will need to make the needed measurements and adjustments for that engine, which are not only the standard timing light and tach/dwell meter.
First, though, you need to go through all of the components and just make sure everything's working and you don't have any glaring vacuum leaks or similar problems, and, I would suggest, rebuild the carburetor.
I'm sure some here will disagree with me, and I do not wish to offend anyone, but if so, then please tell us, from your own experience, how much power you gained from disconnecting a functioning EGR or adding dual exhausts to an anemic low-revving 307.
Basics first: Clean up, tune up, fix what's broken.
Either that, or drop a good 350 or 403 in there - there were two guys on here giving away running 350s within the past 2 months or so.
- Eric
April 21st, 2016, 10:05 PM
#75
Gearhead in training
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
I disagree on the exhaust especially considering the cat is probably plugged. I lost in my 81 Delta 88 to a 4 cyl Mercury Mystik, plugged cat. I gained a bunch after adding a test pipe. The factory exhaust is a joke. My current 260 isn't half bad, pretty sure the dual exhaust helps a lot. I have removed EGR valves multiple times but my cars were not CCC. Pay someone to do the gear swap if you can't, it feels like a lot of power is being added.
Gear swap? Forgive me but my mind still on the track of exhaust. How would i check to see if my cat was plugged up? Theres been a steady slow leak of oil from the rear end of the passenger side valve cover gasket for longer than ive owned the car qnd for some reason i feel like that might add to the exhaust issue
April 21st, 2016, 10:18 PM
#76
Hookers under Hood
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,543
Gear swap? Forgive me but my mind still on the track of exhaust. How would i check to see if my cat was plugged up? Theres been a steady slow leak of oil from the rear end of the passenger side valve cover gasket for longer than ive owned the car qnd for some reason i feel like that might add to the exhaust issue
If the cat were plugged the exhaust would smell like rotten eggs, you would loose most of the bottom end power as well.
Gear change would be replacing the rear pinion and gears in the rear end, I had 3:42 rear gear installed in my 76 along with a posi unit, comes off the line alot quicker.
Dual exhaust and rear gears would likely be your best investment after you do a complete tune up.
Eric
April 22nd, 2016, 05:12 AM
#78
Gearhead in training
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 390
Where is the aldl located at, i believe i have to jumper the A and B terminals to adjust the timing right? And my exhaust smells like nothing, barely even exhaust. That is after it warms uo though... Until then it theres quite a bit of smoke and i wouldnt dare sticking my face in that
April 22nd, 2016, 05:46 AM
#79
Out of Line, Everytime😉
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Melville, Saskatchewan
Posts: 9,010
I and others did suggest the complete tune up, even told him which plugs to get. I still say the early 307's were adequate, although the wagon is no doubt heavier than the 81 Delta 88 I owned. As 76 said, dual exhaust 2.25" along with 3.73 gears IF he has the 2004R trans, which he should. Of course this is only after a complete tune up. I assume it has the air pump and lines into the heads? Further complicates dual exhaust.
April 22nd, 2016, 06:06 AM
#80
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: central massachusetts
Posts: 1,542
aldl
Where is the aldl located at, i believe i have to jumper the A and B terminals to adjust the timing right? And my exhaust smells like nothing, barely even exhaust. That is after it warms uo though... Until then it theres quite a bit of smoke and i wouldnt dare sticking my face in that
