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Hey guys, im sure this has been answered before and mayne you can point me in the direction of a thread burried somewhere but ive got a 1983 olds custom cruiser and am looking for an increase in power, where should i start? I hate traveling next to a prius on a slight incline and having him pass me unless i floor it.. Anywhere i can start besides getting a 350 and swaping it out? Ive heard a few things going around about the heads being a large reason for that. Im no master mechanic by any means, but if given a goal to work towards i can figure it out. Id really like to give this puppy some juice and turn it into the pimp-mobile it deserves to be. Its seems to almost have trouble keeping itself going at idle, almost like an irregular heart beat is the best i can describe. I just want to hear this run tight and in order and be able to make her roar if needed. Also, wouldn't hurt giving that prius a taste of 2 tons of in your face you electric sucking devil.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
That is the unfortunate downside of the 307. Low hp and torque. Yes you could bolt a SBO 350 or 403 up to that 200 4R and you'd see an increase in performance. I always found that the 307 in my car was reliable as heck for starting, and decent for mileage (due to the trans) but lacked in power. You already have a 4bbl on the 307 so changing the carb isn't going to do much.
What you can do right now is check that your engine is properly tuned. You could also do a compression test to see how weak it really is. Don't forget that in 83 GM was looking for ways to increase fuel efficiency, but they did it at the expense of performance. Can you imagine your CC trying to pull a trailer? My 98 had enough problems pulling a boat/trailer. Comfy ride, but sucky performance.
What are some basic ways to check the things you outlined in the second paragraph? Im fairly new to this but am eager to learn as much as i can and youtube doesnt do much good for me, maybe im just not searching the right keywords, who knows. But any and all info will be greatly appreciated!
a complete tune up is in order,especially make sure the timing is set correctly.i like to bypass the egr valve.the carb base gasket is common to leak on these cars.if it hasn't been done recently you probably should.while you are at it knock out the plugs that prevent idle mixture adjustment. this can effect part throttle response.the vacuum hose that goes to the map sensor gets melted over the passenger valve cover by the a.i.r. tube on these cars and effect performance without setting a code.that's a start.jc
Back in the day we just plugged the EGR with a self tapping screw, then put the vacuum line back in place. Not sure how this would work on your car.
I've also wacked an EGR with a hammer when I had a car running ruff due to a bad EGR valve. Made the car run much better since I thought I had carb problems at the time.
If you enjoy your wagon cruiser like you say, I would just leave the power plant alone. Use it for cruising and enjoy it, I would pick up another toy to play around with if your looking to have a bit more fun and power.
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
If you are new to the game, it might be better to have a trusted mechanic do the comp test.
The other things are pretty easy:
Change plugs and make sure they have the right gap. IIRC in 83 the gap should be around .060, but I used to gap them a bit tighter at .050 especially since my engine had close to 200k on it. Don't look at speciality plugs that cost a lot (like E3 or Iridium), just go with conventional plugs.
Note: when changing the plugs, put a small dab of dialetric grease into the plug wire openings, and it doesn't hurt to put a small smear of anti-seize on the plug threads.
The tip on the carb is a good one - there are 4 (1/2") carb bolts that hold the carb down to the intake. Make sure they are tight. Chances are they might be a little loose.
Your car doesn't have a MAF sensor so don't worry about that.
The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve won't typically hurt anything. You can bypass it if you want, or leave it alone. It looks like this and should be on the drivers side intake manifold:
Install a good clean air filter.
You might also want to check the distributor cap inside. The cap has 2 clips that you use a phillips head driver to push down and rotate so the cap can be detached from the distributor head. DON'T take the wires off unless you have to, or have noted their positions in relation to the cylinders. If the cap has corroded contacts inside, replace it. You'll also have to transfer the coil pack to the new cap, along with the wires and leads. It's pretty uncomplicated, but if you're not sure, take a before pic on your phone to refer to.
If you have a multi meter, test the resistance in the wires. Each wire will be slightly different length and therefore slightly different ohms. What you want is something around 5000 ohms / foot of plug wire. If they're good, leave em. If they need replacing, do them one at a time so you don't get the firing order mixed up on the cap.
his car doesn't have a MAF but it does have a MAP sensor,located on the passenger fender well,the plastic vacuum line that goes to it is grouped in the wiring harness,it actually looks like a wire.have seen them melted many times and throws off the vacuum readings effecting timing and carbueration.
Use NGK XR45 plugs, get high quality, low resistance plug wires, brass contact cap and rotor and replace the fuel filter to start. Make sure your vacuum hoses aren't rotten and leaking either. You have the better 307, believe it or not. I found the pre 85 ones had adequate power and were very reliable. A good 2.25" dual exhaust eliminating that crappy crossover pipe would give a good boost in power. If you don't have emissions testing, scrap the air pump and lines as well.
Is there a book or group of pictures somewhere that i can refer to to ditch and replave what you giys have mentioned? Ive got an old Chilton manual but this thing has next to nothing in the usable diagram department
If you are new to the game, it might be better to have a trusted mechanic do the comp test.
The other things are pretty easy:
Change plugs and make sure they have the right gap. IIRC in 83 the gap should be around .060, but I used to gap them a bit tighter at .050 especially since my engine had close to 200k on it. Don't look at speciality plugs that cost a lot (like E3 or Iridium), just go with conventional plugs.
Note: when changing the plugs, put a small dab of dialetric grease into the plug wire openings, and it doesn't hurt to put a small smear of anti-seize on the plug threads.
The tip on the carb is a good one - there are 4 (1/2") carb bolts that hold the carb down to the intake. Make sure they are tight. Chances are they might be a little loose.
Your car doesn't have a MAF sensor so don't worry about that.
The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve won't typically hurt anything. You can bypass it if you want, or leave it alone. It looks like this and should be on the drivers side intake manifold:
Install a good clean air filter.
You might also want to check the distributor cap inside. The cap has 2 clips that you use a phillips head driver to push down and rotate so the cap can be detached from the distributor head. DON'T take the wires off unless you have to, or have noted their positions in relation to the cylinders. If the cap has corroded contacts inside, replace it. You'll also have to transfer the coil pack to the new cap, along with the wires and leads. It's pretty uncomplicated, but if you're not sure, take a before pic on your phone to refer to.
If you have a multi meter, test the resistance in the wires. Each wire will be slightly different length and therefore slightly different ohms. What you want is something around 5000 ohms / foot of plug wire. If they're good, leave em. If they need replacing, do them one at a time so you don't get the firing order mixed up on the cap.
And by bypassing the egr, you mean taking it out and stopping it up and/or just connecting an uninterrupted hose right?
as far as bypassing the egr i just meant remove and plug the hose.if your state allows it i too would remove the AIR pump.it's a big car with a small engine but if it's tuned properly it should be ok power wise.i've found that setting the timing is often overlooked on these cars and over time the timing retards with stretching of timing chain robbing what little power you have to spare.
JCD might have something there. If it's still the original chain and the plastic has all worn off it, it'll be late.
Well, as a newbie i do not know how to set the timing and youtube search of this car brings up nothing relevant. Is it simple enough to explain or would someone have something i could search that would bring up more accurate results? Ive seen people talk about timing on these older cars before and there seems to be quite a bit of controversy
Well, as a newbie i do not know how to set the timing and youtube search of this car brings up nothing relevant. Is it simple enough to explain or would someone have something i could search that would bring up more accurate results? Ive seen people talk about timing on these older cars before and there seems to be quite a bit of controversy
you have to disarm the electronic spark timing(est) i have a tool that plugs in to the aldl that does this but it can be done with a paperclip.i would have to look at the tool to determine which terminals it jumps.some vehicles have a single green wire to unplug at the distributor but i don't believe this car is one of them.
If you're gonna drive a classic, you're gonna have to give up saying that. You're also gonna want to chuck that Chilton's manual back where it came from and acquire the factory manuals. Your best source for this type of info is right here ... not on youtube. There's plenty of options .. but wanting to stay a nube isn't one of them.
If you're gonna drive a classic, you're gonna have to give up saying that. You're also gonna want to chuck that Chilton's manual back where it came from and acquire the factory manuals. Your best source for this type of info is right here ... not on youtube. There's plenty of options .. but wanting to stay a nube isn't one of them.
I do not intend to stay a nube haha but i am only 19, and if youve paid attention lately teens dont pick up old cars and work on them anymore. Theyre stuck to their cell phones and Internet. Not a single person i know will work on a car with me so you guys are my only human source of information. As of right now, unless someone throws up a picture with some arrows and a detailed procedure on how to set the timing, its back to searching the Internet on where i even begin to look. Im hungry for info, but noone has what i crave outside of here. I need an old car guru to apprentice under and learn everything he knows haha. Any of you guys live in ohio...? Cough.. Cough...
If you have an overdrive transmission, step up to 3.73 gears.
For example, im sure you couldnt get more plain and simple, but i have no idea what to do with this information. I never worked on cars with dad as a young lad. Im beginning to learn on this here custom cruiser which is my first car. Great idea, right?
I hate to be boring, but none of these ideas is going to add significant power to your 307.
A small amount of extra power, maybe, but possibly at the expense of smoothness and driveability, as the 307 setup you have was designed to work properly with all of the emission control crap intact, and things tend to get a little unpredictable when you start removing things.
The thing that will get you the best improvement in power from that engine, short of radical action, such as a complete rebuild with different components (pointless when you can bolt in a 350 or a 403) is a good tune-up, following the factory procedures exactly, and replacing any tubes, lines, hoses, and components that may be broken or missing.
You need to get a factory service manual for that car. eBay is likely to be your best source.
Then you need to locate the tools you will need to make the needed measurements and adjustments for that engine, which are not only the standard timing light and tach/dwell meter.
First, though, you need to go through all of the components and just make sure everything's working and you don't have any glaring vacuum leaks or similar problems, and, I would suggest, rebuild the carburetor.
I'm sure some here will disagree with me, and I do not wish to offend anyone, but if so, then please tell us, from your own experience, how much power you gained from disconnecting a functioning EGR or adding dual exhausts to an anemic low-revving 307.
I hate to be boring, but none of these ideas is going to add significant power to your 307.
A small amount of extra power, maybe, but possibly at the expense of smoothness and driveability, as the 307 setup you have was designed to work properly with all of the emission control crap intact, and things tend to get a little unpredictable when you start removing things.
The thing that will get you the best improvement in power from that engine, short of radical action, such as a complete rebuild with different components (pointless when you can bolt in a 350 or a 403) is a good tune-up, following the factory procedures exactly, and replacing any tubes, lines, hoses, and components that may be broken or missing.
You need to get a factory service manual for that car. eBay is likely to be your best source.
Then you need to locate the tools you will need to make the needed measurements and adjustments for that engine, which are not only the standard timing light and tach/dwell meter.
First, though, you need to go through all of the components and just make sure everything's working and you don't have any glaring vacuum leaks or similar problems, and, I would suggest, rebuild the carburetor.
I'm sure some here will disagree with me, and I do not wish to offend anyone, but if so, then please tell us, from your own experience, how much power you gained from disconnecting a functioning EGR or adding dual exhausts to an anemic low-revving 307.
Also, if i were to throw in a different engine...... (im laughing at myself for writing this) what would any of you suggest i look for? If im going to go through this kind of work, i want to do it right the first time
Anything you get from John (2blu442) is a good idea.
That being said, any 330, 350, or 403 will be exactly the same size as your 307, and bolt directly in.
400, 425, and 455 engines are a bit larger, and would require a few changes.
Through 1970, Olds engines commonly came in "high" and "low" compression versions, with high compression being about 10.25:1 (there were a few 10.5:1) and the low compression being 9:1.
Most high compression engines had 4 barrel carburetors, and most low compression engines had 2 barrels, but there were exceptions in different years.
A high compression engine will give better performance and fuel economy, but (if properly tuned) will require 93 octane gasoline (some seem to require just a bit more octane than that).
A 330 will have nearly as much power as a 350.
After 1970, all Olds engines had a nominal 8.5:1 compression ratio, which was usually more like 7.5 or 8:1, so all stock 403s are low compression.
Personally, I like the late-sixties high compression 330s and 350s, and many people pull them in good (enough) condition and replace them with 455s, so they are not hard to find.
The problem with messing around with your pollution controls is if you do it wrong it will make things worse. The CCC system works very well if you tune it correctly. You will never get the 307 engine to perform the way your asking.
Changing your engine will run you in the realm of $7500 minimum with labor. I know you love this car but giving it more power will cost you.
Anything you get from John (2blu442) is a good idea.
That being said, any 330, 350, or 403 will be exactly the same size as your 307, and bolt directly in.
400, 425, and 455 engines are a bit larger, and would require a few changes.
Through 1970, Olds engines commonly came in "high" and "low" compression versions, with high compression being about 10.25:1 (there were a few 10.5:1) and the low compression being 9:1.
Most high compression engines had 4 barrel carburetors, and most low compression engines had 2 barrels, but there were exceptions in different years.
A high compression engine will give better performance and fuel economy, but (if properly tuned) will require 93 octane gasoline (some seem to require just a bit more octane than that).
A 330 will have nearly as much power as a 350.
After 1970, all Olds engines had a nominal 8.5:1 compression ratio, which was usually more like 7.5 or 8:1, so all stock 403s are low compression.
Personally, I like the late-sixties high compression 330s and 350s, and many people pull them in good (enough) condition and replace them with 455s, so they are not hard to find.
- Eric
So, in theory, and if i had all necessary tools and engine lifts, i could get one of those two 330s from the beginning of the list and bolt it up and it should work fine?
Changing your engine will run you in the realm of $7500 minimum with labor. I know you love this car but giving it more power will cost you.
Well, yeah, with labor.
But this gentleman is 19, and as we all can recall (even those of us who don't remember what we had for breakfast this morning), a 19 year old can do anything, mostly because he doesn't know that he can't.
An engine hoist can be rented for $50 to $100 for the day, and with the help of a few buddies, and the risk of a few broken fingers, anyone can swap out an engine, if he believes he can.
So, in theory, and if i had all necessary tools and engine lifts, i could get one of those two 330s from the beginning of the list and bolt it up and it should work fine?
There are many publications available for the car, Haynes is a cliff note manual with most of the basics. Chilton or Motors manuals are bibles. Factory Assembly and Fisher Body manuals are the bibles as well. Do the usual internet searches to purchase these items.
Haynes and Chilton will speak directly to the procedure on timing. You need to bypass the electrical advance as described. Then set the base timing. Or you can simply grab the distributor and twist until favorable results are obtained. You'll know what is favorable by experimentation. Give it as much timing as it will take with out spark knock.
Several areas will increase or optimize the 07s out-put. Timing, new plugs, cap, rotor, plug wires, fuel and air filters, rebuilt carb etc. One step at a time.
So, in theory, and if i had all necessary tools and engine lifts, i could get one of those two 330s from the beginning of the list and bolt it up and it should work fine?
Ummmm no. Those are short block cores, then you need heads, intake, carb, and distributor. The core will need to be rebuilt at minimum with rings, bearing inserts, new lifters, timing chain, oil pump, etc...
April 20th, 2016, 11:17 AM
