How to produce 500 hp
I wouldn't say that.
He could install the Bolt-on 500hp LS motor, bolt-on motor mounts, bolt-on exhaust, bolt-on transmission, bolt-on driveshaft, bolt-on rear end, bolt-on fuel injection, bolt-on Impala fuel tank and pump, bolt-on aluminum radiator, and a few other bolt-on parts I've probably left out.
Of course, it all depends on your definition of "streetable," and of whether you include any machine work in that package.
With machine work to produce a high-RPM, high-compression Olds engine, it's a different story.
- Eric
He could install the Bolt-on 500hp LS motor, bolt-on motor mounts, bolt-on exhaust, bolt-on transmission, bolt-on driveshaft, bolt-on rear end, bolt-on fuel injection, bolt-on Impala fuel tank and pump, bolt-on aluminum radiator, and a few other bolt-on parts I've probably left out.
Of course, it all depends on your definition of "streetable," and of whether you include any machine work in that package.
With machine work to produce a high-RPM, high-compression Olds engine, it's a different story.
- Eric
Your first step is to find a 455. Are you listening to Chevy guys that toss around HP figures to much? Oldsmobile engine like to produce torque. Yes, you need some HP also but torque moves mass. The nice thing about Oldsmobile engines is that you don't have to run the guts out of it to make good power.
PHR built a streetable 455 that produced 514 HP and 540 ft-lbs for their 1965 Cutlass. Here's the build article:
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...s_project_car/
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...s_project_car/
Sigh.........I guess #1 is just how deep is your pocket book? 500 HP......what are you planning to do with it? No matter if it's a BB or SB 500 HP should be able to result in a low11 or high 10 sec ride. This all depends on how your car is set up track conditions. Plan on blowing the rear tires off on the street.
Don't plan on doing it cheaply unless you are going to build it yearly. Spend money on the good stuff or you will be doing it again.
Don't plan on doing it cheaply unless you are going to build it yearly. Spend money on the good stuff or you will be doing it again.
Sigh.........I guess #1 is just how deep is your pocket book? 500 HP......what are you planning to do with it? No matter if it's a BB or SB 500 HP should be able to result in a low11 or high 10 sec ride. This all depends on how your car is set up track conditions. Plan on blowing the rear tires off on the street.
Don't plan on doing it cheaply unless you are going to build it yearly. Spend money on the good stuff or you will be doing it again.
Don't plan on doing it cheaply unless you are going to build it yearly. Spend money on the good stuff or you will be doing it again.
As noted, if you REALLY have 500 HP and intend to use it, (as opposed to simply bragging about dyno sheets) you will need to upgrade everything else on the car. Trans, driveshaft, rear axle, suspension, tires, fuel system, etc, etc.
Sorry but I'm not impressed. Read the whole article, 514hp/540tq from a .030 over 455 with fully ported heads and intake, really?
Plus their math doesn't jive. They state a 10.44:1 compression ratio. I get 11.15:1 with those 5cc SRP pistons, a .005 deck as stated, a .040 gasket and the stock 77cc combustion chambers.
Take it for what it's worth.
Last edited by cutlassefi; Dec 27, 2013 at 08:41 AM.
Your first step is to find a 455. Are you listening to Chevy guys that toss around HP figures to much? Oldsmobile engine like to produce torque. Yes, you need some HP also but torque moves mass. The nice thing about Oldsmobile engines is that you don't have to run the guts out of it to make good power.
Ok so lets talk TQ, how can i get the most out of my 72 cutlass S(350 5.7)??
Again it all depends on money. You could stroke it out, bore it, put aluminum heads on it, roller cam, headers, low gear, high stall. Do you plan on running power brakes? That can limit the size of the cam. Budget can limit the horsepower/tq. How often will you be racing this car and how often will you be driving it on the streets? Are you ok with running 91 or 93 octane in it? Right now it's probably a 87 octane motor.
1. I dont race , i just show my A$$ at a stoplight occasionally(usually when a honda w/ an obscenely loud muffler and nothing behind it pulls up lol!)
2. Already has power brakes, headers, and only runs on premium.
3. Been thinking about doing comp cam retrofit roller cam and edelbrock rpm performer heads.
4. Honestly dont know much about low gear high stall , plz enlighten me.
5. Car was daily driver but has been parked until i get a better understanding of aftermarket parts compatibility. As well as a better overall understanding of what ive got( previous owner(s) did most of the mods and i have to figure out what they did wrong :/ ).
6. Im a Noob so this entire year has been full of growing pains as well as alot of financial losses.
2. Already has power brakes, headers, and only runs on premium.
3. Been thinking about doing comp cam retrofit roller cam and edelbrock rpm performer heads.
4. Honestly dont know much about low gear high stall , plz enlighten me.
5. Car was daily driver but has been parked until i get a better understanding of aftermarket parts compatibility. As well as a better overall understanding of what ive got( previous owner(s) did most of the mods and i have to figure out what they did wrong :/ ).
6. Im a Noob so this entire year has been full of growing pains as well as alot of financial losses.
make sure the whole combo of the car can handle it first of all. I would shoot for at least 11.5 to 1 compression and 57 to 6000 rpm plus a good 455 at least 30 over. this will get you close to 500 at the flywheel or 400 at the wheels or just use nitrous when wanted with cheaper upgrades and not a huge shot either.
Do you have an RPM gauge? When you spin the tires do you leave one mark or two?
Lower gears is referring to the gears in the rear end. Higher gears give you a lot of top end speed but are very slow at red lights. Low gears makes it rev very high on the highway.
High stall is referring to the stall converter speed in the transmission. Most stock ones engage at about 1800. A higher stall would throw you back in the seat more...assuming you did not lose traction.
To outrun a honda at a red light you dont need 500hp. A properly set up 350 would run pretty good. Get a timing light. A gear change with a positrack would probably be enough to out run most honda's on the streets.
Also lots of reading on this site will increase your knowledge.
Lower gears is referring to the gears in the rear end. Higher gears give you a lot of top end speed but are very slow at red lights. Low gears makes it rev very high on the highway.
High stall is referring to the stall converter speed in the transmission. Most stock ones engage at about 1800. A higher stall would throw you back in the seat more...assuming you did not lose traction.
To outrun a honda at a red light you dont need 500hp. A properly set up 350 would run pretty good. Get a timing light. A gear change with a positrack would probably be enough to out run most honda's on the streets.
Also lots of reading on this site will increase your knowledge.
make sure the whole combo of the car can handle it first of all. I would shoot for at least 11.5 to 1 compression and 57 to 6000 rpm plus a good 455 at least 30 over. this will get you close to 500 at the flywheel or 400 at the wheels or just use nitrous when wanted with cheaper upgrades and not a huge shot either.
Do you have an RPM gauge? When you spin the tires do you leave one mark or two?
Lower gears is referring to the gears in the rear end. Higher gears give you a lot of top end speed but are very slow at red lights. Low gears makes it rev very high on the highway.
High stall is referring to the stall converter speed in the transmission. Most stock ones engage at about 1800. A higher stall would throw you back in the seat more...assuming you did not lose traction.
To outrun a honda at a red light you dont need 500hp. A properly set up 350 would run pretty good. Get a timing light. A gear change with a positrack would probably be enough to out run most honda's on the streets.
Also lots of reading on this site will increase your knowledge.
Lower gears is referring to the gears in the rear end. Higher gears give you a lot of top end speed but are very slow at red lights. Low gears makes it rev very high on the highway.
High stall is referring to the stall converter speed in the transmission. Most stock ones engage at about 1800. A higher stall would throw you back in the seat more...assuming you did not lose traction.
To outrun a honda at a red light you dont need 500hp. A properly set up 350 would run pretty good. Get a timing light. A gear change with a positrack would probably be enough to out run most honda's on the streets.
Also lots of reading on this site will increase your knowledge.
Yes i kno its ridiculous, i just want something respectable i guess. Btw i never attempted a burnout bc i dont wanna brake anything. This car has been a big enough pain in my *** and wallet without doing stupid stuff. If i had any sense at all id just get rid of it , but its just too damn sexy. So ... Here i am asking u gentleman for advice in hopes that i could convince myself to keep my POS car. Sigh... So long story short im just trying to learn how to tune what ive and go from there.
Yes i kno its ridiculous, i just want something respectable i guess. Btw i never attempted a burnout bc i dont wanna brake anything. This car has been a big enough pain in my *** and wallet without doing stupid stuff. If i had any sense at all id just get rid of it , but its just too damn sexy. So ... Here i am asking u gentleman for advice in hopes that i could convince myself to keep my POS car. Sigh... So long story short im just trying to learn how to tune what ive and go from there.
The car is a pain in the *** and wallet, but you want to spend money to make more power and possibly break stuff?
My thoughts based on your posts in this thread:
1) you don't need 500hp, and (don't take this the wrong way) if you had 500hp I don't think you'd use it.
2) you need many other upgrades to support a 500hp engine ($$$)
3) 500hp, why that number anyway?
4) what's the hang up with Hondas?
5) the portion of your quote that I put in bold, I'm glad you said that. That is where you need to focus. Spend smart money on what you have and slowly turn the car into what you want it to be. If you're set on a nice rebuilt engine, then get what you currently have tuned and running as best as possible, while you build a new engine to replace it with. This way you can enjoy the car while building the engine.
And for Pete's sake, do a burn out!!!! A successful burnout will put a smile on your face and rejuvenate your passion for the car/pos.
The car is a pain in the *** and wallet, but you want to spend money to make more power and possibly break stuff?
My thoughts based on your posts in this thread:
1) you don't need 500hp, and (don't take this the wrong way) if you had 500hp I don't think you'd use it.
2) you need many other upgrades to support a 500hp engine ($$$)
3) 500hp, why that number anyway?
4) what's the hang up with Hondas?
5) the portion of your quote that I put in bold, I'm glad you said that. That is where you need to focus. Spend smart money on what you have and slowly turn the car into what you want it to be. If you're set on a nice rebuilt engine, then get what you currently have tuned and running as best as possible, while you build a new engine to replace it with. This way you can enjoy the car while building the engine.
And for Pete's sake, do a burn out!!!! A successful burnout will put a smile on your face and rejuvenate your passion for the car/pos.
My thoughts based on your posts in this thread:
1) you don't need 500hp, and (don't take this the wrong way) if you had 500hp I don't think you'd use it.
2) you need many other upgrades to support a 500hp engine ($$$)
3) 500hp, why that number anyway?
4) what's the hang up with Hondas?
5) the portion of your quote that I put in bold, I'm glad you said that. That is where you need to focus. Spend smart money on what you have and slowly turn the car into what you want it to be. If you're set on a nice rebuilt engine, then get what you currently have tuned and running as best as possible, while you build a new engine to replace it with. This way you can enjoy the car while building the engine.
And for Pete's sake, do a burn out!!!! A successful burnout will put a smile on your face and rejuvenate your passion for the car/pos.

I just ordered books by Bill trovato & david vizard to educate myself. Hopefully in a couple of months I'll have a video to post of me doing that burnout lol.
Lots of other good posts here except this. Don't do this.
Im stationed on wheeler aaf (across the street from schofield). Honestly bro if you could just help me find a shop that could get my 350 running smooth I'd be happy with that for now. However, i am very interested in finding a working 455, whether it be on island or in fla ,so if ANYBODY on this thread knows of one plz shoot me the link or PM me the details. Thx
I saw this350 build sevral months ago it seems reasonable not 500 hp
I like 455s and all the torque you get myself.
http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes...-for-new-power
I like 455s and all the torque you get myself.
http://www.powerblocktv.com/episodes...-for-new-power
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