So here is my deal, i have a 65 cutlass with the 330 rocket in it. atop this rocket there is a holley 1850-2 600 cfm 4 bbl carb. first this thing was having a rough time idling i assumed this was because they used the wrong mounting adapter leaving a gaping hole between the carb and the manifold thus created a giant vac. leak. so i got the right adapter, new gaskets, sealed that baby up... Now I cant slow the idle down lol its dumpin fuel even if the throttle plate is all the way down. Tomorrow im gonna tear the thing down and clean it all. Should i have any reason to believe that it isnt just the bowl sticking?
Thanks

 

What is your fuel pressure before the carb?

 

Have a gasket/rebuild kit for it....you will need it to re-assemble. Could be a float problem or float level adjustment or too rich mixture on the mixture screws.

 

not sure about the pressure. i was just gonna take it apart and clean, should i not do that without the rebuild kit?

 

Usually gaskets get ruined when you open up the carb and then there will be parts for accel pump, needle and seat, power valve that should be swapped as long as its open and apart.

 

Get the rebuild kit and then delve into the project. You can't take these things apart without ruining at least one gasket. Take it from me, I tried. Many moons ago. I run a Demon on my Olds and it works way better than the Holley I have on a small chevy. This way you will have everything you need to begin with. I can tell you your problem though, you have a Holley!

 

I never liked Holleys Definitely get a rebuild kit though. Make sure you also have an entire afternoon to rebuild the carburetor. That way you can remember the way it came apart so you can put it back together again. Usually the rebuild kits have an exploded diagram but that isn't always helpful.

 

Yeah I hate holleys as well, i have one in my 80 chev that is way too picky. Maybe i will look into getting something else... Any reference on brands?

One more thing, do you guys feel this is an acceptable task for someone that has never taken these things apart before?

 

It's not too hard. Just pay attention to what went where when you take it apart. You might as well get the rebuild kit for it. They are like $30 or so. Buying just a couple of gaskets and O-rings almost add up to that. Do yourself a favor and get the carb cleaner in the gallon paint can with the basket. Also when you put it back together make sure you use the right O-rings. The kit will be somewhat universal and have parts that don't go to that carb. And just because it looks like it will work don't mean it will. I rebuilt an 1850-2 a few years ago for a friend and put the wrong O-rings in the fuel tube between the float bowls and bent the tube. A new tube was $12. Do yourself another favor and don't paint any of the parts. The thing looked like it belonged on a clown car.

 

lol i will remember that, i will order the kit shortly. it appears a different carb is a tad more than i want to spend on the motor right now. the exterior needs some money before i dive into that. Thanks for the input guys!

 

I run a Demon on my 68 small block and that thing is turn key. I should say tap key. You just tap it and it fires. I love it! On the other hand I have a Holley on my 71 Vette and it starts well but doesn't have the smoothness the Demon does. I am thinking of replacing it it is THAT much of a difference. The Vette is just plain RAW. It runs like a race car. Throws you around and accelerates like a Vette should. FUN!

 

How much was your demon if you dont mind me asking? and perhaps an even less experienced question, how do i know which CFM rating and such to get? the Holley that is on it is a 600, would it be smart to stick with that if i went to another make?

 

There is nothing wrong with a Holley if you take the time to learn about them.They are so simple,even GM guys can work on them.I just rebuilt my 750 double pumper and following the instructions in the Holley book it turned out great and saved me a pile of money,runs f*cking wonderful.Use a real Holley kit not a cheap one.Buy the cleaner to soak it in take your time read all you can.They are a hell of a lot better than quadrajunks

 

BLASPHEMEY! Burn him, burn him!

Just kidding. Whatever floats your boat. I think you will find most of the regulars here would disagree though.

 

I have been using Hollys for years. Started with the off road racing. the floats were easy to adjust for all kinds of conditions. I still use them and in fact am using a 770 CFM double pumper on my 455 build. I expect to have success with this set up.

 

I had a Holley 650 double pumper spreadbore on a street driven 425 for years. Very dependable, easy to rebuild and adjust....and good performance...Only problem I had was the rubber o rings would occasionally go on the tube that feeds the rear bowl.

 

Ok got the Holley trickit down the street $26 bucks, more than fair. almost have the thing stripped but i have a question about 1 part. I will attach some pictures but for some reason i cant get the casin off the front or back to access the bowls. is there a bolt you think i missed or could it be that they havnt been taken apart in so long that they are stuck? i really didnt wanna start hammering the thing so i figured i'd ask. I took out the 4 bolts and took the throttle and choke assemblies off the sides. any ideas? The pic is a little while ago, i have taken many things off since then. those 4 bolts circled are the ones i took out on both sides with no success.
Thanks

 

As far as I remember its just those 4 slotted bolts....pry a little and it should come loose.

 

If you use a small flathead screw driver and pry where the white circle is, it will pop right off. Be gentle though.

 

Ok this should be the last couple questions on the rebuild. i was able to get to the bowls, i hate to admit it but i ended up having to hammer it. some cheap cork gaskets in there were not letting go. my first question here is the small plate in the rear compartment has some very odd looking bolts, anyone know what they are? i dont have a tool to take that one off and im not sure what to ask for if i went to buy one lol. Second the screw above the bowl, is it supposed to be hollow up top? after taking this thing apart nothing appears gummed up or anything close, its a tad dirty but nothing that i can tell is being blocked and im pretty sure the bowls are floating freely I'm not so sure this is going to fix the issue anymore but we will see as soon as i can figure out how to get the back apart. Thanks for all the help guys, couldnt have done it without the advice, well couldnt have gotten this far anyway.

 

The screw heads are called clutch head screws. Sears sells (they did anyway) screwdrivers to fit these. They do come in different sizes, so get the right one.

The second thing you have pictured is the needle & seat. It should move freely when you shake it. I believe a kit has a new one. Use the new one.

Make sure you clean off all the old gaskets and remember what each should look like (been there not done that one ) Oh ya, when you go to put the transfer tube back in between the bowls, put a little vasoline on the O-rings.

Nick

 

Thanks for the reply i will have to locate the clutch head driver before i can finish this.

i did put together the new needle and seat and have them ready to put back in. now i guess this was just an assumption but i thought that was how you adjusted the bowls? the screw that goes into that seat was almost seized together, are those screws on top of the seats used to adjust some aspect of it? i didnt see anything at all that looked like you could adjust the bowls except maybe bending the bracket on the bowl itself. After taking all this i did notice the accelerator pump gasket was worn and dry, could that be causing the excess fuel issue?

Thanks

 

The hex on top of the bowl, which has an oval opening that fits over the needle & seat, is how you adjust float level. When you thread in that needle and seat (5/8" wrench) into the fuel bowl, when you turn it clockwise it lowers the float, counter clockwise raises the float. The big flat screw locks the assembly where you set it. Be sure and have the proper gaskets below and above that hex adjuster or you will have fuel all over the place.

Adjust with the engine running and have the sight plugs out of the side of the bowl. Bring the level up to just so the gas barely wets the threads.

Nick

 

So got it shinin and back on the car, first problem is i cant start it lol, if i open the choke all the way i can get it going at a terrible idle for a couple seconds then feul starts dumping out the front venturi and it dies... any ideas?

 

Sounds like a float too high or a pressure problem. Are you sure you put it back together right? As in the right gaskets where they should be?

Nick

 

positive about the gaskets. i realize the floats are too high i just dont have anything to measure them to the 7/64" and 13/64". i can however adjust them to where the fuel doesnt pour out of the venturi yet it doesnt start unless i spray some gas down the throat of carb and even then it only runs until i stop. i took it apart again today and was still unable to get it right. for some reason i dont think its only a float level issue. and i wasnt sure how to check my fuel pressure level but i can definitely hear the fuel pump runnin. Thanks for the reply i was worried it was beyond help. that $600 edelbrock mani/carb combo is sounding mighty tempting lol

 

Its alive!! took it back apart adjusted the floats and it will idle, extremely rough and its blowin fuel through the exhaust, but idle none the less!... would this mean that the floats still arent set correctly? this is not suprising at all i just wanted to see if you guys agree before i spend the weekend heading this project.