Ok, Went to pick my car up today and it won't start, It turns over, has fuel & spark. Car is a 1969 olds cutlass convertable, 350 engine with a 2-barrel Carb. car will start and rund only 4 a few seconds. soon as I press the gas it dies. if I give the pedal a couple hard pats before I turn the key...Car acts as if it wants to start but seems as though there is not fuel being delivered constantly. I disconnected the fuel line from the carb and stuck it in a bottle, turned the key , bottled filled with gas. used a spark plug tester car is getting a good spark.


would a bad choke cause the car not to start? I drove it with the bad choke for about 20 miles before

please help my baby sits clean and helpless @ the moment.

 

Have you changed the fuel filter or given it a tune up lately.

 

This may sound crazy but I don"t remember if we had a full tune up on this car. we did a new fuel pump, not filter. I did try to remove the little filter @ the carb housing inlet line. Ran the line without the filter....still no luck! Plenty of gas flowed into a bottle when i took the line off.

 

well you could take off the air cleaner to see if the choke is on.

 

thanks for the reply's ended up needed a carburetor. It was not getting gas through it and leaking out the front side somewhere,


I bought an eldebrok 4 barrel intake I'm going to swap now with a 4 barrel carter carb.

 

I think that gave you a great excuse for an upgrade. You should really like the extra 2 barrels and should be a lot more fun to drive.

 

have you checked the dwell angle? I f you have to small gap in the breaker points this fhenomena could occur. just a thought.


regards

 

I have no clue what you're talking about, please excuse my lack of knowledge on this subject.
I did try to swap the intake however so many things needs pluged or changed before I can get the car running again.

Would it be better to swap to 4-barrel intake or rebuild the stock 2-barrel carb?

 

imo....4 barrel all the way

 

OK!
Did the starting problem occur after or before the intake swap?

Regards Stanley

 

problem started before anything was swapped, I haven't swapped anything yet still getting the parts togther. Fuel was not getting to the carb, something inside were the little round fuel filter goes on the front of the carb was leaking in that housing.

 

Before I started swapping intakes, I'd change the fuel filter.

 

will do

 

OK, then we have to wait untill you have put everything back and start from there if the starting problem still is there.

Regards Stanley

 

rodrieguz- Do yourself a big favor and install an in-line gas filter, preferably a clear one if you can locate one. This way, the major part of the dirt and junk will stay in the in-line filter and reduce the amount that the in-carb. filter will have to handle. The in-line type filter is much easier to service, with only hose clamps and flex. tubing to deal with. The fewer times you have to remove the hex-housing of the in-carb. filter, the less risk you run of leaks, cross-threading, etc. Good luck & Happy Motoring!!! Jim

 

I will install the inline filter. I pulled the intake tonight and there was a lot of gunk residue around a few of the rods. I cleaned everything up and vacuumed everything as I went along.
Would it hurt to spray carb cleaner on everything just to clean it up a bit more?
When I put the RTV sealant on the front and rear of the intake should I let it sit for a few before I put the intake down?


Thanks Rod

 

Follow the directions on the RTV tube. It will tell you what the manufacturer recommends for the best results. However, most RTV products allow you to mate the two parts together right away. Just make sure the two surfaces are clean, dry and smooth before applying the RTV, and wait the recommended curing time before running fuel through to the carb.. Keep us posted on your progress! Take care & Happy Motoring!!! Jim

 

Man guys I'm banging my head on the wall. Got the car back together, and it still won't start. Now it just rotates without even trying to start. We are getting gas to the carb.
I did change the distributor cap & rotor...we are getting spark.

What gives I'm clueless to the problem. any suggestions?

 

Try to climb on top of engine and look straight down into the carb and pump the gas, you should be able to see two streams of gas squirt down into manifold. What carb is it?

 

I will check that squirts tomorrow, It is a carter 4-barrel carb.

BTW, I sprayed starter fluid in the carb yesterday still no luck!

 

timing? did you check it yet? maybe it jumped timing (original timing chain?)before the intake change? i would be lost to

 

I hadn't checked the timing, I'm really lost on this one. I drove the car , only not to be able to drive it back home over a month ago. It sits @ a friends house for now.

 

how are you checking for spark? if you fouled one or three plugs you may get spark on a new plug or a used plug or a screw driver to the ground trick but if your plugs are bad it is for not? Hope that made sense pull plugs and look at them

 

If you can se a spark when the plug is out of the head is not evidence that you have a spark when the plug is in the head. You have to check the breaker point gap (dwell angle) and the timing before trying anymore. If You have a very small breaker point gap you can have a visible spark while checking but no spark at cranking pressure.

Stanley

 

Check the distributer shaft for wobble. Your points may be staying closed due to an eccentric distributer shaft. This happened to me years ago. The only answer for this type of issue is to replace the distributer. If that's the case, you may want to consider HEI (that's if you haven't swapped out already). Jim

 

Finally got around to working on the car again, My problem ended up being a wire from the column to the coil not get juice.