My v6 died. For now I found a running and sounds good 69 350.
I was thinking I should change to HEI, but everything I find says the HEi needs to be "recurved".

I cant seem to find an explination of what and how to do it properly.

69 is stock
has a 2 bbl

Any help, or should I stick to points for now?

 

You can run an HEI stock and be fine. While in college I picked up a salvage yard HEI put new cap, rotor and wires on it and ran it for years. Recurving has to do with the timing. It's not a must, but helps with the HP. The lighter weights lets it advance quicker. Of course too light of weights can cause detonation which is bad. The springs depends on your set up. Until you get familiar with it just use the stock springs.

 

You might want to check this thread that's been running this week for an overview and some resources.

- Eric

 

Had an HEI on my 68 350 with no problems

 

Like others said, it would not be a problem at all. You just need to get one of the hei weight and spring kits from Summit or Jegs to get the proper advance. HEI distributors came out in the mid 70's and were set up for tighter emission control, not for performance. Fortunately, this is very easy fix.

 

Go HEI, you will be glad you did . The spark plug wires location on the cap will be different than with the points cap.# 1 will be close to the firewall . Firing order is the same though.

 

I've got a 69 350 and bought the 6503-R aluminum distributor on Ebay for $50. Been running it over 7 months now and driving like I stole it. No problems. Yet! Way better than points.

 

I have had an HEI in my 72 Cutlass since 1993. I never recurved it and it runs great. One thing to consider is that it is taller and will hit the stock air cleaner. One other possibility is using a Pertronix conversion for your stock distributor. They work great and are very reliable.

 

You can use any HEI in that engine, the older the better, just make certain it isn't worn out, you don't need any weight kits or adjustable advances for a stock 350 2BBL engine just make certain everything in it works.

 

Help me to understand, but why would this be the case? As far as I understand it, #1 can be anywhere you like so long as the order is the same, and the cam hasn't turned since when you took out the old distributor? As long as the firing order is the same, you could have the rotor 180 degrees from where it was, as long as when you drop in the shaft, you make sure that the cap has that plug the same as it was on the old distributor?

Someone correct me if I am wrong (as I'm currently facing an issue with the vacuum advance canister hitting the firewall, I intend to turn the distributor 180 degrees)

Michael

 

You can make any terminal you want the #1 terminal. Just depends how you drop in the distributor. Placement of the vacuum canister is unimportant other than having it in a convenient spot so that you're able to adjust timing. In most circumstances that would have the canister pointing toward the passenger side. Bring the #1 piston up on TDC. Place the balancer on the number of degrees you want for initial advance. Pick which terminal you want for #1 and when you drop in the distributor making sure the rotor points toward that terminal. Since you have a hexagonal oil pump drive shaft you'll have 60* to work around to find the spot where it will drop down. Once that's done you can just put the wires on following the firing order counter clockwise.

Worst case scenario you can move the oil pump drive shaft anywhere you want that too with a 5/16 socket on an extension. Same thing can be done with a Chevy (which I think someone was eluding to). Get a long screwdriver and place the oil pump drive shaft where you want it. No need for only two positions of 180* or 0/360*.

Just make sure you have a full 12v going to the HEI in your 69. There are many topics on that in here.

 

[QUOTE=TripDeuces;311434]You can make any terminal you want the #1 terminal. Just depends how you drop in the distributor.[quote]

Pretty much exactly what I expected....

Yes, I was aware of that as well. I disconnect wires from the old coil, and voltmeter tested them. In the run position (not started), I was getting 12.41 volts. I didn't test the start position, but I imagine it's the full 12 volts also. I thought it was odd that the existing coil was getting 12 volts?

Michael

 

Your imagination is too good.

You need to test your voltage with the ignition ON and the engine RUNNING.

You will get 12V after the resistor with no current draw on the circuit (or, actually, with a very small current draw from the volt meter). With the engine RUNNING, though, the current will be limited by the resistor and the voltage will drop.

Check it for yourself.

- Eric

 

The HEI cap is internally wired different than the old points style cap. You can check the wiring diagram on the old style cap vesus the newer hei . If you have access to a chiltons manual they show the different years.

 

I have a cheap HEI on 72 Cutlass and it's much better than points. Plus the thottle response is better.

 

How can you go wrong?

Just use a good size #8 or #10 length of wire to your fuse box to power the thing and you are in business.

I'm running a Chinese made HEI I bought off Ebay for $59 that has a polished billet aluminum shaft (pretty as hell) came with a 50,000 volt coil which I didn't use because I run an Accel external Super Coil (so 70s I know) and Accel cap.

If running an internal coil and red cap doesn't bother you, I can't see anything coming close to these distributors price wise or performance wise IMO. You can adjust the timing curve using a supplied Allen wrench through the vacuum canister, just remove vacuum line, insert Allen wrench and turn right or left to change the curve.

I didn't touch mine and it runs great, been on there for about 4 years now.