heater core
#2
The heater core is located in and attached to the heater case (which is under the dash on the passenger side). To remove the core, disconnect heater hoses and remove the five attaching nuts. (These are gotten at on the firewall.) On 33 through 38 series (which includes the Cutlass), the lower outboard nut can be removed by drilling a 3/4" hole through the fender filler panel at the dimple provided in the fender filler panel. (You'll see the problem when you try to remove this nut. You'll likely have to remove the right front wheel to get at the inner fender to drill the hole.)
Disconnect the resistor wiring, the three control cables, and remove the case from the dash panel. The core can be removed from the case as illustrated in Figure 1-19 (which shows on the hose side removal of a retainer held down by two screws and on the other side prying open a clip with a screwdriver).
When replacing the core in the case, use body sealer or caulking compound on the lower inside edge of where the core seats. After installing the core, plug the hole in the fender filler panel using a 3/4" accessory hole grommet and body sealer.
As far as a part number, you don't need one. Just go to a local auto parts store and tell them you need a heater core for a '67 Cutlass. Autozone's website, for example, has these, although you will have to order it at the store and wait a day or two for it to come in. Cost is about $50. Other stores will likely be able to get one, too.
Online vendor rockauto.com has them for your car for $35 to $50, and these things are for sale all the time on ebay. Just do a search for a 1967 Cutlass heater core, and several will pop up. If you don't have one, while you're on ebay, look for a '67 Olds chassis service manual. It will be invaluable when trying to do any kind of serious maintenance to your car.
#3
I just did mine 2 months ago on my non-a/c equipped 65 Cutlass.
Autozone had in STOCK a unit for an a/c equipped car, I took my old one along with. Ended up having 1 outlet different (slight curve) as the only difference.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search
Autozone showed the same part on a search for your car.
For a diagram, click on view job diagram, it is a good representation.
On my 65, we had to remove the box from the inside underneath the dash, a 2 man job, but not real difficult. Bolts go through the firewall. Once that is removed, you can access the heater core by removing a bolted clip on one side, it has a spring clip retaining it on the other side.
Yours may differ slightly, especially if you have A/C!
I have no a/c, and the fenderwells are not in my car right now.
You may want to get some non hardening permatex, and some felt weatherstrip from your local hardware store to seal it up tight.
Good luck,
Jim
Autozone had in STOCK a unit for an a/c equipped car, I took my old one along with. Ended up having 1 outlet different (slight curve) as the only difference.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search
Autozone showed the same part on a search for your car.
For a diagram, click on view job diagram, it is a good representation.
On my 65, we had to remove the box from the inside underneath the dash, a 2 man job, but not real difficult. Bolts go through the firewall. Once that is removed, you can access the heater core by removing a bolted clip on one side, it has a spring clip retaining it on the other side.
Yours may differ slightly, especially if you have A/C!
I have no a/c, and the fenderwells are not in my car right now.
You may want to get some non hardening permatex, and some felt weatherstrip from your local hardware store to seal it up tight.
Good luck,
Jim
Last edited by Warhead; October 14th, 2010 at 04:05 PM.
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