Hello all,

I just bought headers last night and i'm planning on installing them Saturday morning.Can I have some insight as to what I might face during the install.I have a 350 rocket in a 72 cutlass supreme.They are full lenght headers.

Thank you

 

The passenger side is the easy side. You will have to remove the oil filter AND the adapter. The tranny cooling lines might get in your way a little, might need a little bend here and there.

The driver side is more challenging and you may need assistance from a buddy. The starter is what makes it more difficult. You'll need to remove it and install it the same same has the header goes in. Becarful with the battery postive cable, so it doesn't rub or melt on the header tube. The brake junction block often gets in the way and might need to be moved a little, to the top of frame from its side location. Beware the oil dipstick, they often break so take it easy.]

Goodluck

 

Just a memory when I put headers on my 455 engine back in 1976. I didn't notice at the time, but one of the tubes was very close to one of my brake lines, and every time the engine twisted because of the torque, it was just enough to make contact with the brake line, and so after about 2 weeks of driving, the constant movement back and forth of the line caused it to crack near the flange(next to the proportioning valve if I remember correctly). An easy fix, but could have been avoided. Don't know if this would be an issue with a 350, but just make sure you have enough clearance all around the header tubes. Chumley

 

depending also the kind of headers u get too. hooker headers are notorious for resting on the cross members

 

I have heard that headers on an Olds 350 can heat soak the starter and cause problems with starting once the car is hot. Oldsguy had this problem on his 71 Cutlass S he had years ago. I think he ended up using header tape to wrap the headers and prevent them from cooking the starter.

 

I used to have that problem also with my Hedmans on my 455. Problem is the solenoid gets too hot and does not want to work. Some guys reroute the wiring and mount the solenoid on the firewall somewhere. ( This is one area where Ford was a step ahead of GM back in the early days.) Chumley

 

Also you may have figured it out but when I put a set on I jacked the car way up high and fed them in from the bottom. I too move the brake distribution block to the top of the frame, and after changing one too many starter solenoids got a kit from Summit that connected the two small posts on the starter solenoid and ran that to a Ford solenoid that I put on the fender near the horn relay. I still ended up changing the Ford solenoid every couple years but at least it was easy to do! John

 

I think we've all had the heat soak problem.

Go to home depot or lowes or any other good hardware store.
Ask for some aluminum tape of HVAC tape.
(don't get the tape that's just silver colored paper)
It's heavy aluminum foil with a sticky back.
Degrease your starter and wrap a few pieces around the starter,
covering everything but the ends.
Stay away from the grounds and contacts.

You won't have a starter problem on the hottest day.

 

That is a cool idea to use the aluminum wrapping. Then you can use chrome polish on the tape every time you wash the car and keep the headers nice and shiny.

 

i guess im the lucky one cause i aint never had to change out my starter in the last seven years and my headers sit right on it but now that i am saying this something will probably happen either way im getting ready to play with my electrical system on my car a lil battery rerouting and powermaster starter and alternator i am havin one problem with my car staying at 210 and i have replaced everything but i want it back down to 190 i think its because i pulled my valley pan off but other than that my whole cooling system is brand new

 

You need an avatar, here is one.....

 

I learned from the best!

 

When my headers were put on the motor mounts needed to be moved because they wouldnt clear on the left side. this was in january and i had to learn the hard way that headers get very hot and burn anything that touches them so a bunch of wires got melted and crystalized. long story short buy some split loom and electrical tape to wrap any wires near the headers.

 

I got my passenger side headers on but im having a little trouble with the drivers side.I had to take the motor mount screws out and jack the motor up a little bit but it's a very tight fit and the header is resting on the frame a little bit.Has anyone else had these type of problems???

 

You might have to "ding" the header tube with a hammer that contacts the area you describe. You only need a little space, not much, say 1/4".

Yea I know, this means you might have to take the header back out to do this. This should'nt be normal, but many header installs go like this. Some sets are better fit than others. Just keep at it. It can be challenging.

 

Thanks Don71.I had to ding the passenger header in a little bit so I may need to do the drivers as well.I'll keep you posted.

 

Buy a grease pencil at the art suppy store and mark the interfering spot, remove the header, and do it that way. You need to be able to support the header pipe you are "hammering" on by backing it with your work bench or a big block of wood or something. If you try to hammer it while it is in the car and perhaps even some of the bolts attached you might break a flange, bent a bolt or miss with the hammer and damage something else on the engine like the starter.

 

It is a shame that they were such a tight fit. I wonder if another brand fits better or if it is just the set you got? I have heard of many people having to ding headers so they fit.

 

You have the exact 72' that I have. I had the engine rebuilt and I'm breaking it in with the original exhaust manifold. I have Hooker Competition series that I had cermaic coated, but now I'm a bit worried to install them. What type of headers did you install? Hooker? Headman? How is it running now?

 

I have flowtech headers.I installed them and drove to the exhaust shop sounding like a nascar.They are great.I can feel more power and the tone is loud like I wanted it. Definitely worth it.
I had to ding the passenger side in a little but the drivers side went in with no problem when I removed the starter.

 

That's good news. I've got Hooker Headers and I'm hoping that they will drop in easy enough. I have to have the exhaust modified so I might just leave that up to the muffler shop guy to handle. Hopefully I won't have any problems with the starter once they're in.

Thanks for the follow up.

 

Did you install those hooker headers yet? I have a set and I need to know what I'm looking ahead for.

 

Just in case someone is looking to buy a very nice set of coated headers for a 68-72 Cutlass I have some for sale in the sale section. Save some money. They are not dinged and fit very nice. They fit automatic only.

 

I finally got my car down to the muffler shop today. I put a 442 rear bumper on my 72' and he's re-routing the rear pipes to fit that bumper with the trumpet tips. I also have him installing the headers. I had my Hooker Competitions ceramic coated by a shop that did two coats on the outside and single coated the inside.

After reading all of the posts I certainly hope that shop won't have to beat the tubes with a hammer and chip off the coating to make them fit, but such is life right?! Also, I hope that it doesn't take a ton of time either because at $75 an hour, it's going to rack up quickly.

Installing headers in a Cutlass Supreme is is starting to remind me of a drug commercial!! Side effects include...issues with the column shift linkage, brake distribution block clearance, frame rubbing, starter cooking, and wires frying....

The side effects aren't going to offset the benefit of the extra HP headers are supposed to give!

I'll keep you posted on how it goes and if I can snap some pictures of any problem areas that might pop up.

 

Okay fellas here's the scoop on the headers so far. They finally got them installed, but it took hours; which doesn't look like it's going to be cheap. (Not an easy job, but one I should have done myself.)

The shop had to pull the starter, oil filter, oil filter mount, cut the heat shield covering the motor mount, and they broke off the dipstick tube in the block. They ended up having to pound the remaining part of the tube down into the pan, drain the oil, and fish it out with magnets. (I'm hoping that they don't try to charge me for this mistake. They already ruined the factory dipstick tube...grrr...)

They are at closing time now and still have to put on the collectors and hook them up to the pipes. I'm hoping that they'll be done tomorrow and I'll get away for under $500. I'm really starting to resent this project!!!

 

BUMMER!

That is why I do all the work on my Olds myself. Hope it doesn't cost you an arm and a leg.