Oldssupreme

Hi! So I'm ready to install my harmonic balancer on my 72 350. The csm states to apply sealer 1050026 to inside diameter of pulley hub and outside of crankshaft pulley which enters seal with special seal lubricant 1050169. What should i use? What do these numbers translate to?
Thanks
Chris

joe_padavano

I've never used any sealer on the ID of the balancer. I guess there could be a negligible amount of seepage between the balancer and the crank snout, but I've never noticed it, given the press fit. I do recommend that you use a balancer installer and don't just pound it on. Hammering on the crank snout is a good way to damage the thrust bearing.

MDchanic

... However, they aren't all at tight as they theoretically should be, and yours may press on with gentle tapping with a wooden mallet, enough that you can catch enough threads with the bolt and pull it on without excessive force on the threads.

- Eric

Oldssupreme

Ok. Well I have the installer tool that I rented which came with the puller tool. As far as the sealers
Would it hurt to on the id to use some rtv? Also Would you oil the snout with motor oil or axle grease? Same with the id of the oil seal?
Thanks
Chris

MDchanic

No problem conservatively greasing the outside of the balancer shaft where it bears on the seal.

I would not put anything on the shaft of the crank that is thick and might interfere with complete seating.
I would guess that the original specified sealant is probably a very thin shellac-like substance.

- Eric

steverw

I would put a very light oil on the crank shaft and maybe some inside the balancer too just to help it slide on. Again very light, not running or dripping off, just a film.
Steve

frankr442

1050026 is similar to gasket shellac except that it doesn't harden. I've used it on gaskets, fittings, bolts, pipe thread etc. I like it.

Oldssupreme

Ok. Thanks guys. I lubed the shaft with motor oil and used the installer tool to out the hb on as far as it would go. However it is not completely flush with the inside of the hb lip. Should it be? Should the hb bolt, when it is torqued down, bring it on the rest of the way?

MDchanic

Yeah, the bolt will pull it flush.

Remember, it wants about 200 ft-lbs of torque, so "brace yerself, Bridget!"

- Eric

Oldssupreme

Eric haha! Should I really do 200 ft lbs? The csm says 160 I think. Lol. Bridget! That was good

joe_padavano

Eric was rounding off 160 to "about 200".

Your bigger problem will be holding the crank so it doesn't turn while torquing. Decades ago I built a tool for this which was simply an old Olds crank pulley with a 4ft piece of steel welded to it as a handle. Bolt this to the balancer and now the crank won't turn.

Oldssupreme

Joe haha. That's close enough right? That tool you described in ingenious! Unfortunately I cannot weld. Any other ideas for holding it in place?
Thanks so much guys!

joe_padavano

Take it to a welder and pay $15 to have the handle welded to the pulley.

MDchanic

Actually, the CSM says "160 minimum."

Basically, you need to have the crank and block (if off the car) braced for 200 ft-lbs, because you're going to be tugging on it pretty hard.

- Eric

442Harv

If the engine is out of the car, and on a stand, I put a bar, in one of the holes in the flex plate, and rotate the engine turns till it hits the bottom of the block, and keeps it from spinning. Won't work on 4Sp fly wheel.

Oldssupreme

Eric, you're right. That's odd that there's no absolute value listed, only a minimum. Maybe they figured most people can't get much above that anyways. 442harv thanks for your suggestion. I might try that one first.
Chris

MDchanic

I just pull it until the wrench clicks at 160, then pull a little bit more.

- Eric