This is gonna be like a two part thread. First question can someone list everything you use like silicone on with the gasket when replacing gaskets, Oil pan, water pump, valve covers, ect... List them all please. I know anything with water you do but do you use any on the oil pan gasket. My second part is I took the pan off and there was a tiny bit of carbon in a couple cylinders this is normal right?? Thanks for everyones help this motor is about done!!!!!!!!

 

Starting at the top and working down:

Intake: High-Tack on the port gaskets with a small bead of Ultra-Copper around the water ports. Throw the rubber end seals in the trash and use a thick bead of Ultra-Copper on the end seals instead (be sure to set the intake straight down onto the heads so you don't move the Ultra-Copper)

Heads: Buy a good quality gasket, put it on dry.

Valve Cover: get a Fel-Pro 11/64" gasket, use High-Tack on the VC side of the gasket, leave the head side dry. (Don't over torque!)

Timing Cover / Water pump: Ultra copper on the paper gasket

Oil Pan: Use a 350 Diesel gasket (cork / rubber composite w/ metal insert) and coat it on both sides with Permatex Aviation form a gasket. Use Ultra-Copper on the rubber end seals (top and bottom of the seal).

Fuel pump / oil filter housing: Ultra-Copper on the paper gaskets

Hope this helps.

 

I have permatex, black shilac I heard this stuff is messy but works extremely well. On the timing cover and water pump do you bead both sides? Also the front and back rubber gaskets under the intake. Dont use them? Other than that you actually told me exactly what I needed

 

I only use Ultra-Copper because unlike the black it never really gets 'hard'. It will stay rubbery and I have never had problems with it leaking. Also, because it never gets hard if it does leak you can spray it with brakleen and push more Ultra-Copper into the leak area to fix the leak.

Timing cover / water pump: bead both sides of the gaskets.

Intake: correct, toss the black rubber gaskets and run a thick bead of Ultra-Copper on the block, then set the intake straight down onto it. The bead at the end rails is the last thing you do before installing the intake.

 

Ok and on the intake manifold pan gasket which ports are the water ports? I didnt know you had to do anything to the manifold pan gasket, and which sides of it do you do?

 

The smaller ports on the ends are the water jacket ports. I put the high-tack on both sides of the pan gasket and then Ultra-Copper on both sides of it at the water jacket ports (you can put it around the port on the head and then set the gasket down on top of it).

It's always a good idea to dry fit the gasket first to make sure you are putting the sealer in the correct place...

 

The smaller ports on the very front are water jacket ports right? and put sealer on every port both sides

 

They say a picture is worth a thousand words...

 

Got it thanks so much you have helpped me with this part very well. Im more of a picture guy so that was great!!! very nice thanks you so much

 

I like that, Steve - Oldsmobile folk art .

- Eric

 

Thanks Eric! I keep getting PM's about intake manifold end seal leaks and how to seal up engines. In fact, the only reason I checked back in on this thread was because another member is having the same problem and I was trying to send him the link to it.

I'm wondering if this shouldn't be a sticky? Or maybe I could make a nice illustrated write up about how to seal the different parts of the engine? IDK, that might take a while.

 

This thread I started made a huge help to me.. Im more of a picture guy myself. My motor is all put together now. Thanks for the amounts of help

 

X2...I'm gonna hang that picture on the garage wall !!!

 

I have poster size prints available for $199.99 each. I can frame them for you as well for an additional $50-$100 depending on the frame you choose

 

i was going to ask the same thing.. about intake gaskets.. i see the pan style and then the other ones that like edelbrock sells.. so i guess the turkey pan with the tack and copper will do the job on my new RPM AirGap intake.. i have the toronado intake on it now its really low even with a 1'' spacer. do people want these intakes? i guess if hood clearance is an issue.. other than that it's going to the scrap pile.

 

i knew i could not get out of this easy..lol there offering 2 types of intake valley pan gaskets.. 65-72 OLDSMOBILE 400 425 455 INTAKE GASKET SET And 1973-76 Oldsmobile 455 Intake Manifold Valley Pan & Seals.. i have a 69 455 in my 1973 cutlass... does it matter what one i buy? i mean i'm installing a aftermarket intake. i really don't see the diff in the two other and the valley has a extra bump?

 

Most the time they always offer two different kinds. I dont know if it matters but the way I see it. If if fits the same go for the valley, Its more protection on the push rods. I might be WAYY off on this but just my thought. The valley pan how ever has cut outs that are pressed back and then the block has holes they press into so it holds it in place on four corners. Might give that a look

 

Scott, I only suggest the turkey tray gaskets to SBO guys because the valley pan keeps oil off the bottom of the intake. For the BBO crowd I would get the valley tray from Dick Miller that replaces the oil baffle in the lifter valley. Then I would run a Fel-Pro 1356 carbon intake gasket...especially if you are using an aftermarket aluminum intake.

Follow the exact same procedure as listed above, but rather than using the turkey tray metal gasket you will use the "paper" runner gaskets. If you need anymore help just let me know.

 

where do i find dick miller valley tray? i did a fast online look and just seen his book on How to Hook and Launch..

 

i found one on Mondello performance products in CA. it's like 40 bucks.

VT-581 Valley Tray (All Olds)
Although this is not a gasket, this item is commonly ordered with our intake gaskets. Fits all Olds engines, small and big block. Our valley tray is designed to keep hot oil off the manifold, allowing the manifold to stay much cooler for efficient performance. Will fit all stock cast iron and aluminum manifolds (except Toronado). (Small blocks will have to be drilled and tapped to accept this valley tray.)

 

If you call Dick Miller he has one. I would not order it from Mondello. You might give Bill at www.btrperformance.com a call too...I think he makes one.

 

I just bought the DMR 5580. Damn thing cost $59 + $12 shipping

 

Wow $71 bucks... that's crazy. by time i'm bone buying gaskets, that and ultra copper i'm going to be into it for over $100 bucks! AND i paid $400 for a brand new RPM airgap. i'm going to have 2k into the top end of this 455 AND that's with "C" heads not Aluminum's and no port work.. this is my first olds build and i gotta tell you there not cheap! ...well i could have used a 200 dollar knock off intake and a no name cam.. but you get what you pay for.. i like doing it right the first time.. And i really like how my 455 pulls.. i wont part with it anytime soon..