Im converting my 69 cutlass to a 4 speed. I forgot to order flywheel bolts since I didnt realize that they were longer than the flexplate bolts. Is there any reason I can't go to the hardware store and get grade 8 bolts that fit, or are they special bolts?

 

Are these the flywheel to crank bolts? I'm not an expert so someone will have to speak up who is. But I'm picturing bolts with a thinner head than off the shelf bolts. If that's correct, the hardware store bolt heads may be too tall and interfere with the clutch function. I'm leaning towards specialty bolts for the flywheel to crankshaft. But again, I'm sure there's someone here who knows for sure. John

 

yes, they are the flywheel to crank bolts.

 

You should be able to get the correct flywheel bolts from an auto parts store or speed shop.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0878&ppt=C0377

http://www.autozone.com/transmission...ex-plate-bolts

 

Does your crankshaft have the machined hole for the trans support bearing to fit into?

 

Spent most of the day looking for a store that had them in stock. Finally found them. Thanks for the replies.

 

ARP makes them in various lengths (for different nominal applications) to match different thicknesses of flywheel flange.

 

I think I'm using SBC ARP bolts for mine, they're either .750 or 1"

 

NOS flywheel bolts are 7/16x20x0.87" long. ARP 240-2801 are .875" long. ARP 200-2802 are 1", 350-2802 are .925" long.

 

ARP is the ONLY thing I would install in a critical fastener area such as this, that is unless you find NOS OEM. Guarantee the hardware store "grade 8s" are chineasium junk. Think about the job those fasteners are doing especially at 5-6 grand on a hole shot. Safety first. A flywheel coming unglued at 6K can take your feet off unless you have a scatter shield.

 

Are you sure that your crank is drilled bit the pilot bearing?

 

crank wasnt drilled. Had to remove it and have a shop drill it.

 

I strongly recommend a steel aftermarket flywheel, SFI approved clutch to prevent blow-up, and then a blow proof bellhousing like Lakewood or, better, a Quick Time.

 

I am using a centerforce billet flywheel and centerforce clutch but i have a stock bellhousing. I have heard that the blowproof bellhousings need some modification on an oldsmobile. Is this true?

 

The QuickTime works as supplied. The Lakewood has an ear at the starter pocket that interferes with the clutch linkage, has been so for 40 years or so, and they aren't smart enough to realize you would want to run a clutch linkage. Everyone just cuts off the ear.

 

The shoulder dimensions of the flywheel bolts is critical, don't trust a bolt just because the length and thread pitch matches. Get the ARP flywheel bolts and be safe.....
just saying.

 

Stock and ARP flywheel bolts have more bearing surface on the flywheel, with 3/4" heads instead of the normal 5/8" for standard bolts. Also, the flywheel bolts have thin heads to clear the clutch disc hub.