defiant1

Looking at getting a set of ceramic coated Flowtech headers for a decent price.

Need to know if these are worth any installation problems there may be?

Also, are the performance gains that advantageous vs. the stock exhaust manifolds?

The headers would be going on the 350 in the 70 Cutlass.

Any insight would be helpful.

d1

A72CUTLAS

Hey defiant1, I'm the guy that posted on your other thread RE: headers. I bought the painted Flowtechs not ceramic, but I think they were worth the price. The only major problem I had had nothing to do with the headers, 3 of the exhaust bolts broke off in the heads, 1 on driver and 2 on passenger. I guess I should've expected it, seeing how they were over 35 years old! As far as installation issues, the tranny lines had to be rerouted on my '72, that's it.

As far as performance gains, all I have to rely on is the "butt dyno". The car feels a little quicker than before but I have no numbers to back it up.
Hope this helps.
Walt

defiant1

Thanks for the response. Did you need to run longer lines or just bend them a few different ways?

If I can get a good deal on the headers I might do it, but I am trying to figure out if going through the installation hassle (broken exhaust manifold bolts, routing lines, etc.) will be worth it.

Would you happen to have any pictures that you can PM me to show the clearances there are in the engine bay with the headers mounted?

d1

A72CUTLAS

Well, here are a few pics that'll give you an idea RE: bay clearance. I'd like to say I did all this myself, but after the first bolt broke off in the head I was done. I'm still a rookie in the car crafting hobby so removing heads to fix broken bolts was beyond my knowledge. I had a machine shop finish the repair and installation to be safe. But from looking and from what the shop guy said, it seems he just rerouted them to run down the center of the motor vs. the frame rail.I would've taken some pics from beneath but it decided to rain on me, but you can see how close the fit is. You can also see that the paint doesn't last long, so go for the ceramic ones if at all possible.

After looking closely at it again, I think that the steering linkage would've had to be dis-connected, but I don't remember that being said. But even with the extra cost of the machine shop I still am happy I did it. Also hung 2.5" exhaust with Magnaflows and an H-pipe. Sounds like a beast even though it's basically stock!

defiant1

Thanks for taking the time to take and post the pictures. That is definitely a tight fit. Your info will definitely will help in my decision.

Thanks again

d1

Rickman48

To get the maximum gains from headers, you should have someone re-jet your carb!
And a high-flow air filter, [like K+N] will help even more!
Now that you made it easier to ****, make it easier to breath.
With todays gas adding alcohol, and freed-up breathing, it's rather easy to find yourself in a lean condition, especially with any kind of compression!
If you think broken bolts are a hassle, try burnt pistons or valves!

A72CUTLAS

That's one of the funniest analogies I've heard in a long time! But to your point, I am having the Q rebuilt by one of the top carb guys on this forum. I had made up my mind that the Qjet was too much carb for my stock setup until posting my question here.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-72-cutty.html
Not only did I get good info RE: the history of Qjet's and Olds, I was introduced to Danny S. (70Wcars) who's going to work magic on my carb. The mod ended up locking that thread cause some guys can get real passionate about their brand of carb. Almost as bad as the Chebby v. Ford guys.

olds 307 and 403

My Flowtech A body headers peeled after a couple of years and rust pitting. I also needed double gaskets to seal.

defiant1

Thanks for the input. I think I am leaning toward shorty headers... but we'll see.

erke88

can get headers for cheaper by applying paint yourself. Most ceramic paints need an oven to be baked, but there is a way to bake the paint on the car once you have the headers installed. You use the cars own heat generation to cure the ceramic paint. Theres methods of doing this labeled on the spray paint can. Or you can do what I did and take your headers to your old high school and ask the ceramics teacher if you can use their oven by the way, I have Hedman Hedders believe part#58196 for a 70-72 cutlass with 350

RAMBOW

How to prep non coated headers.

Take them to a sandblaster & Pay ~$30 to remove rust, or the cheap Crappy paint they use from the factory.
Buy 2 cans of your preferred collor VHT Header paint
Hang/suspend headers for cleaning & painting.
Wipe off headers througoughly with rubbing alcohol or wax & grease remover.
Spray a few light coats over the headers.
Have a propane torch handy. Light torch- aim flame into the bottom collector tube- let run for a few mins- you will see steam/smoke coming up the top of the primary tubes.
Let cool down
Spray a few more light coats over the headers.
Heat with torch again
Repeat until you have the headers coated really good.

Heating with the torch will help the VHT cure. When you run the engine the first time, it won't burn off the paint now.

I've done this many times, and the VHT will last and look good for a long time.

urnightshiftpal

I got some flowtech coated headers. Experience varies. Some say they had no problems. Personally i had to break out the BFH and fire. Took them in just a tad around the passenger engine mounts and had to bash em pretty good to clear the starter. This is even after i went out and bought a mini starter. I header wrapped the area i bashed in near the starter in attempt to keep some heat away from it. Its still close. The starter and driver side header have to go in from the bottom at the same time. no starter first then header or vise versa.... both.

Homestar

I don't know the brand headers I put on my Olds 350 but I had to purchase a $300 mini hi-torque starter because the stock starter was to big for the headers to clear, anyone else have to do that?

Fakser

What a coincedence, I was just looking for some input on these headers because of the price and here I find a thread with plenty of info. May just fork out the extra 50 and get the hooker comp's. Engine should be done soon I'll get some pics up it's going to the machine shop this week

dhoff

I used Flowtech headers in my 71 supreme 350 engine, and had to bend the left one to clear the motor mount, and bought a rebuilt starter for a 80's 307 that was a newer small design a whole lot cheaper than the $300 mini starter. Also when installing had to pull the steering column out (was changing to tilt anyway). The right side was way easier.

Homestar

I need some encouragement,
I have to replace my engine, I can install it tommorow.
The car has the headers and exhaust in place awaiting to recieve the new engine.(77K original motor from a donor car)
My problem is, I will have to take off the original exhaust manifolds that are in great shape and I'm afraid of snapping 1 or 2 or possibly 3 bolts in the process of removing them.
I was thinking of setting a torque wrench to 125 Ftlbs and if they dont break free with 125 ftlbs to dont risk it. I dont want to drill a block
Any tips for getting the exhaust bolts out?

urnightshiftpal

I had this happen. Be carefull. You can spray them with something like PB blaster or WD40 or somthing similar and let it sit overnight or even a few days, spraying a little more each day.

A72CUTLAS

I agree, "Deep Creep" or any silicone lube will save you from the machine shop. My issue was that I couldn't get to the bottom exhaust bolts because my hands were too large, therefore they didn't get properly lubed. (Those were the ones that broke off in my block.) If your hands are small or average in size, you shouldn't have trouble reaching them. Just be sure to soak 'em (bolts) well especially where they contact the manifolds. Then hit 'em with the lube 2-3 more times 8-12hrs apart. You won't even need much force to remove them after that.

Yellowstatue

Another thing to try is...smack the bolt heads with the BFH sharply to help jar any binding around the bolt...this is done with the engine out of course...and then spray again with the deep creepy stuff...