First engine swap

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Old May 9, 2022 | 07:13 AM
  #1  
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First engine swap

This is my first engine swap switching my 350 for a 455. My(first) issue is that the engine hoist boom is a good 18 inches short. Do i need to remove the core support, fenders or both? Or do I get a longer boom at a metal supply shop? Thanks in advance.
Old May 9, 2022 | 07:38 AM
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A picture would help us see what you're up against. Most boom type lifts roll under the car.
Old May 9, 2022 | 07:47 AM
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I'd guess your using the cheaper Harbor Freight picker. The boom is very short on the cheap one. Your going to have to get a longer boom picker. Maybe rent or borrow a longer one. There are threads about modifying pickers on this site.
Old May 9, 2022 | 07:53 AM
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You are correct, it is from HF. I will look for those modifications you mention. Thanks
Old May 9, 2022 | 08:41 AM
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Do you have it pulled out all the way? I had a Harbor freight one with removable legs, and it work great.
Old May 9, 2022 | 08:43 AM
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One more thing, I think you have the pump on backwards. Turn it around, and you will gain a couple inches.
Old May 9, 2022 | 09:18 AM
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The problem with extending just the boom is the legs may be too short and it will tip forward.
Old May 9, 2022 | 12:19 PM
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Yes, I ran into the same issue on my 70S. I extended the boom, it wants to tip over. It needs about 4 iron heads strapped to the back of the hoist frame. Ask me how I know😉.
Old May 9, 2022 | 12:46 PM
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Thanks all. Will probably looking into renting a bigger hoist. Is taking the front clip off an option?
Old May 9, 2022 | 01:13 PM
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When I did my engine swap I took off the front sheet metal. You can remove both fenders, the rad support, and bumper as a unit. Remove the hood seperately.
Old May 9, 2022 | 02:08 PM
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The legs should also extend.
Boom hook should not extend past legs.
Cant imagine a engine lift that cant reach.
No need to pull support or fenders.
Old May 10, 2022 | 10:55 AM
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It may be your style of hoist. Below is one I've had with my cousin for years, couple things to note between this on the one you posted. And maybe items to look for if you rent another...

1. Mine has 2 connection points for the hydraulic ram giving the option to boost a little higher.
2. My boom prior to the extension looks longer allowing for more travel.
3. As others have mentioned, make sure your legs are extended properly, can have some travel yet should always be at a length beyond the boom.
4, My boom extension is completely adjustable as in a large set screen at top of first outer boom. No pre determined holes thru the outer and inner boom.


Old May 10, 2022 | 12:26 PM
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Taking the front bumper, grill and rad support is an option but a lot of work, too much work in my opinion. Find someone with a bigger crane, that is the problem. i have both and the cheap one falls short on a midsize/fullsized car.
Old May 10, 2022 | 04:55 PM
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As the owner of a 70 and a cheap *** Harbor freight picker…you should be able to make it reach by removing JUST the front bumper.
the boom arm should come out far enough to handle.
I wouldn’t attempt this with the trans attached…but good enough for just the engine.




Old May 11, 2022 | 05:09 AM
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I totally agree. While you can remove the core support and front clip...that's way too much work. I've removed and installed lots of engines on full size cars and trucks with my HF cherry picker. There should be no issue unless you have an odd one. My legs do not extend but are the right length for extending the boom out as far as I need it.

Good luck. If yours doesn't work, you can rent one or find them cheap on CL all the time.

Here's a pic of my lift when I worked on a 64 Vette....

You can see the lower legs are full length and the boom is extendable.

Last edited by 442Dude; May 11, 2022 at 05:34 AM.
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 10:07 AM
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Swap success


Fwiw, we extended the boom and legs and welded a piece of angle iron to the boom.

Held both motors nicely.
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 10:10 AM
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Next question

Does anyone know why the motor is not level? I used the existing 350 mounts. Thought I read that was possible.

Any thoughts?
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TOM1972
Any thoughts?
Do you know that the car is level?
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 10:41 AM
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Yes, the rad support in front was level.
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by TOM1972
Yes, the rad support in front was level.
The core support is on rubber mounts that may or may not be compressed equally. Put a level across the frame rails.
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 11:11 AM
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Both bolts are through the motor mounts?
Did you see a big dent on one side of the cross member?
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 11:12 AM
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More basic question, ASSUMING the frame is level, are both motor mounts 2261s?
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 11:24 AM
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Not sure if they can be identified from
the pics but I used the same mounts from the 350 and the motor was level.

Old Jun 15, 2022 | 11:26 AM
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The driver side mount looks like it's squashed a little from age. That alone can cause the problem. New ones are about $8 apiece.
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 11:37 AM
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I will try that first, thanks Joe.
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 11:45 AM
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Is this the right part even though it's saying it does not fit?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Motor Mount.pdf (175.9 KB, 5 views)
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 11:49 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by TOM1972
Is this the right part even though it's saying it does not fit?
If you have the original frame pads from the 350 motor, you MUST use the 2261 mounts.They would not be correct if you had a factory 455 car with the factory 455 frame pads.
Old Jun 15, 2022 | 01:03 PM
  #28  
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It's been a 350 since I've had it for the past 30+ years so I ordered new 2261's and hopefully solve my issue.
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